Digital cameras and flash

[andreahollander]

I just purchased a Nikon d50. This camera does in fact have a hot shoe

however I've read and been told that the flashes I own (Vivitar

283,285)could fry my camera if I were to place them on my hot shoe.

Needless to say I'm not trying it. The rumor is that there is an

adapter. Has anyone used it? does it work? What is it called? Where

can it be purchased? Any info appreciated. I usually like to just

figure these things out by trial and error. That was easier when it

was only film and my time wasted.

 

Thanks

Andrea Hollander

[guts80]

Check your manual specification to see what the highest flash voltage it can safely handle (if you can't find it do a quick search on google).

 

From what I recall, I believe all modern Nikon DSLRs have a rated saftey voltage of 250V. In that case, the newer 283 SHOULD be useable without frying your camera. However to be on the safe side a wienz-safe synch is in order.

 

I'm just recalling this from memory so best to check with another source.

[michael_madio]

Check the manual for the max sync voltage. Next, check the flash. Put in some batteries, turn it on, and wait for the ready light to come on. Using a simple voltmeter (if you don't have one, find a local electronics repair store ... they will surely have a meter you may be able to borrow for 30 seconds), you need to check the DC voltage between the pin in the middle of the foot (positive) and one of the contacts on the side (negative). If the measured voltage is less than the max stated by Nikon, the flash is safe to use. If the voltage is higher, you want a Wein Safe Sync available from most of the major photo retailers.

[andreahollander]

Shing Yan Lau,

Thanks for the information. Does anyone know the specific name of the adapter. I looked on vivtars' site (They are only in the moment)no mention of flashes there. I'm sure I can dig up my manual for the flash.

I checked out a few suppliers like B&H but didn't find exact adapter.

[mark u]

The D50 will handle 250V. Voltages for the Vivitar 283 depend on the age of the gun - newer ones are quite safe (about 8v), but some old ones can have a very high voltage. Frankly, it could be cheaper to buy a replacement that has a safe voltage than pay up for the Wein Safe Sync. If your 285 is an HV model, it's safe - if it is not it may or may not be.

 

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=245292&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

[picturesque]

It's called a Wein Safe Sync. There are three kinds, two of which will work for you. There is the one that goes into the hot shoe and has a PC socket. There is the one that goes into the hot shoe and has a PC socket and another hot shoe into which you can put your flash. There is the one that works with studio type strobes (not what you want). Go to B&H and search under Wein Safe Sync.

[john_mcmillin]

I may be becoming known as the "Anti-283 Troll" of this forum, but I can't resist saying

that you should consider the alternatives to this primitive old flash. I'd much prefer either

a contemporary flash that features wireless operation and finer control of output than the

2-stop adjustments of old autoflashes like the Vivs. Modern Nikon flashes are very well

made. Finally they've strated making the flash feet out of metal! It's about time. Every

shoe-mount flash of 4-AA size I've used has suffered a broken foot.

 

That's why I use handle-mount flashes instead. I just picked up a used Metz 45 CT-5 from

KEH for $50. It's big, but it handles and balances as solidly as a good claw hammer. It has

a GN of 148 and twin flash tubes for bounce and fill, a fully aimable head, and very clear,

easy-to-read controls that adjust the auto settings in single stops. The little round dial of

the 283, marked in colors that have to be matched to a front setting... it's all a pain, tiny

and hard to read.

 

I realize the 283's are still very popular. I don't expect to change any minds with this

contrarian viewpoint, but perhaps I can open a few. And now, to make nice, I'll offer a site

I've found that researches this-- http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

[w_t1]

I just pulled out one of my thee 283's, I hold the flash about 10 inches from my glasses with bifocals, I have no problem read ing the text with my 40-something year old eyes...

 

My oldest 283 I bought in 1981, and it's still ticking. I mostly use on the auto mode, but occasionally use the plug ins that manually adjust power down to 1/32 or whatever it is. The manual power adjust is great for shooting wireless with a monoflash. I've use on all the old manual Canon Fd line, the EOS line, both film and digital, without any problem. I couldn't get to fire on a Canon G2 P&S, so I bought a Wein safe-sync that works fine. My final product looks as good or better than any of the modern Canon EX flashes. My 10D did take a swing at me, "how dare you mount that old grandpa flash on me" but shut up when she saw the output...

[w_t1]

The 283 has 4-stop auto adjustments, not two.

 

Perhaps you're happier with the feel of a potato masher in your left hand. You may like the feeling. I use my left hand for focusing.

[edgreene]

Heck, the "potato masher" is usually on a flash bracket or lightstand, tethered (or not) (wireless / slaved)

[harold_baylis]

Your old flashes are not going to work,with a digital camera. Thats why Nikon makes Digital flashes. If you get yourself a digital flash,it will take a lot of guess work out of using the flash. You also get to shoot in TTL mode. witch is a BIG PLUS+. New Camera + new digital flash = great pictures! DON'T take the chance of burning your camera out,with the old flashes.