Sunpak 622 won't operate TTL with FM2n

[stephen t]

Just acquired a used 622. Works fine in manual and auto modes on all

bodies, but on an FM2n it won't operate properly using the TTL mode on

the flash. I've tried both the NE-1AF and the older module, but it

dumps all the light when using TTL mode. On my F5, it seems to work

just fine TTL (haven't shot film yet, but the light output changes

with the selected F stops on the F5.

 

What am I missing? The FM2n meters TTL, but why not with the 622?

 

I'm also posting this question on the Lighting forum - hope cross

posting is OK.

[anupam]

AFAIK, the FM2n does not have TTL flash.

[cabophoto]

Stephen,

 

the FM2n does not support TTL flash.

 

Carsten

 

http://www.cabophoto.com/

[lex_jenkins]

With the FM2N the second pin on the hotshoe only serves to illuminate the flash ready lamp in the viewfinder. No TTL flash.

[stephen t]

Thanks for the answers...........that extra little contact is for the flash ready light in the viewfinder of the body of the FM2n. Should've known that.

 

Now--anybody know of a way to use TTL flash on Nikons' digital (D70) bodies with the 622? According to B&H's site, TTL isn't supported with their current listed module for the 622.

 

Also, I'm thinking of getting the bare bulb head and the diffuser head for the 622 - anybody have any experiences or opinions on those two options?

[ian_hillerud]

I have the 622 with all the heads and use it with a variety of film and digi-cams.

 

TTL doesn't seem to work with my digital equipment but with a few test pops, the auto

settings work pretty well at normal distances. (Closeups tend to be over exposed -

perhaps 1/128 is still too much power - this certainly seems to be the main problem with

the ring light head at all but the smallest apertures?)

 

Trigger voltage should be safe for digital cameras and ranges between 5 & 8.2V. I tested

each of my dedicated modules and found that the old pentax PT-1D imposes the lowest

trigger volatge so it is the one that I use on the digicams, but anything under 7.4V is

almost certainly going to be safe.

 

The diffusion head is pretty good for portraits and close-ups giving a much softer effect.

Depending upon the reflective surroundings, it can result in unfortunate color casts and a

generally less contrasty image. Quite effective for VERY subtle outdoor fill flash and slave

triggering. They are pretty affordable and definitely provide a practical & pleasant lighting

option.

 

The bare bulb head is tricky - because the light goes everywhere, power seems modest

and color-casts are very hard to prevent. With a relector more power is available, but you

might as well be using the zoom head unless you are fanatical about perfectly round

highlights in the subject's eyes. If you shoot inside with very white reflective surfaces the

results can be fantastic - it is also effective for point-source outdoor fill. Bought it for

shooting with my super wide angle lenses, but haven't used it enough yet to know how

well it does in terms of coverage & edge-to-edge brightness. The heads are a bit pricey

and most pros would probably want more power given the inherent inefficiency of bare

bulb lighting.

 

BTW - Don't bother with expensive battery packs for the 622. Buy eight NiMH C-cells rated

at 5000 mAh each, a decent 4 cell charger and for a total of about $60 you can shoot

multi-shot bursts all week with an incredible 40 Amp hours of power.

 

- Ian Hillerud