Lens must be retensioned after removal from body

[brody_philip]

My 80 mm lens must be re-tensioned manually (off camera)when removed from the

camera body. Otherwise it can not, as expected, be replaced on the body. My 350

mm lens remains tensioned after removing it and can be replaced immediately.

The body is an old 500, the 80 mm lens a similar age silver, the 350 mm lens a

somewhat newer black. Is this a normal situation? Re-tensioning is a pain

especially in the field.

 

P Brody

[russ_britt3]

No it should stay cocked.

[ulrik]

Thus the 80 mm lens should be the culprit and in need of service.

 

Ulrik

[Ed_Ingold]

WARNING FLAGS! You have a problem with either the lens (a worn shutter latch) or timing in the body. If the lens trips during the removal process, you can get a fatal jam which can only be repaired by a qualified service technician. It's your choice - spend $200 for a CLA on the body and lens, or $400 later for repairs. Contact Hasselblad USA or David Odess (a frequent contributor to pnet and capable Hasselblad technician).

 

Use a dime (or similar coin) as a screwdriver to reset the shutter. It's easy to use and there's little danger of scratching the lens.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Hey....!<br><br>I'm sure i wrote something in this thread this morning (first reply in the list). Now it's gone?<br>Could it be because it also mentioned that i was glad that David Knapman, Master of Masters, had joined the list?<br><br>Nah... couldn't be. Posts spamming David Odess are left untouched...<br><br>Anyway, there is a catch holding the lens 'axle when not on the camera. It is the little lever that is visible in the semi-circular srurround. It would appear that this simple thingy isn't working anymore. Should be a simple and cheap repair.<br><br>But i'm sure that now David Knapman has joined us, you will not have to do with vague answers like this anymore.<br>Welcome mr Knapman!

[tito sobrinho]

Q.G, would you please tell us who's D. Knapman?

[q.g._de_bakker]

Tito,<br><br>Ex Hasselblad AB chief repair instructor (you remember that Odess often mentions he is factory trained? ;-)), now PRO CAMERA SERVCE in Sweden.

[q.g._de_bakker]

"Ex" doesn't sound quite right. "Former" is better.<br><br>Anyway, i think mr. Knapman is someone we can trust knowing Hasselblads extremely well.

[david_knapman]

I keept out of this one on purpose but after Mr de Bakker's most flattering comments, and his warm welcome (thank you, I can't remember

being welcomed to anything before!) I was promted to change my mind.

 

Yes Mr. de Bakker, The transmission axle catch, which you quite rightly term simple, should indeed be an inexpensive and fast repair. This little catch which is visable in it's semi-circular shield to the right of the transmission axle on the lens bayonet plate can be faulty in the

following manner:

1/. Wear - not usual.

The catch, which is very hard and brittle, can be re-surfaced with the

aid of a diamond file. This only when the part is not available.

2/. Loose catch pivot screw - quite usual.

The end of the screw can be seen in the bayonet plate at the side of the catch shield (2o'clock). To establish if the screw is loose lift the catch with tweezers or whathaveyou and observe the screw with a loupe or other magnifier. If you see movement then this is the problem, plus lubrication of course!

3/. Lubrication - very common.

Move the catch toward the shield. DO NOT depress the catch downward

into the bayonet. Compare the speed at which the catch returns to that

of the 350 lens mentioned. If the 80 lens catch is slower, then the problem is lubrication. The lens shutter should be released in all the above tests.

 

I do not under any circumstances suggest that one should attempt to repair this fault, however I can recount how I have seen repairmen deal with it (I always remove the bayonet plate):

Pick up a drop of VERY thin oil with the aid of a thin piece of wire and introduce this to the catch as close to the pivot screw as possible. Check catch movement, and repeat if need be.