carbon_dragon Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I use D76 1:1 10 minutes usually to develop my Tri-X but I admit it's more a matter of what I was taught rather than a firm conviction that it's the best tool for the job. I actually noticed on the Kodak website they now recommend 9 3/4 minutes. Hmmm... I was just curious what developers you use that you like for Tri-X. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discpad Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 For 4x5 TXP-320 sheet film I use Diafine in the E.I. 800-1250 range for event photography, with a Speed Graphic at 1/50th @f/11 & Norman 200B at 100 w/sec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosmo_genovese Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I have my Tri-X (and TXP) processed commercially at a professional lab in D76 1:1 with benzotriazole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_appleyard Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Let's see... D-23, D-23M, D-76, HC-110, Rodinal, Agfa 14, PMK, Pyrocat HD, D2D, WD2D, Microdol-X and Acufine, but not all at the same time. Is there a dev Tri-X doesn't get along with? It's whatever mood I'm in/whatever the shot calls for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 For 400 TX, D-76 either straight or diluted 1+1 is hard to beat. I use a 10.5 minute dev time, for normal contrast scenes and 11 to 11.25 minutes for flatly light scenes at 68 deg. F. and print on a diffusion enlarger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed farmer - mount laurel, Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 More often than not, PMK (Pyro). If I am going for a grainier look, I might switch to D76, but not often anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeseb Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Tri-X rated EI=400 in Xtol straight or 1+1. Excellent tones, nice smooth unobtrusive grain. I use a Jobo so my times won't matter much to you, but it's 3:30-4:00 straight or about 5:30 1 +1 with the Jobo's continuous agitation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeiffel Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Xtol 1:1 for pushing or scanning, Rodinal for grain, D76 stock or 1:1 for the classic look, and Diafine for low light work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin jackson Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I use D76 1:1. Just remember to use twice the volume required to cover the reels (ie. same amount of stock). This is per Kodak J-78 tech. pub. small print. You can also use 1/2 the stock to save a few pennies but should add 10% to the time (about 10 3/4 min.). I think many have missed this fact and it does seem to help the Tri-X deliver the best values in my opinion. BTW I use a diffuser enlarger and prefer a little more "snap" than when I used a condenser which the D76 1:1 used correctly seems to deliver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_hoyt Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 David, I develop TRI-X (4X5 sheet film) in HC-110, 1+63 for 9 minutes; Normal exposure/normal development. Back in the 1970's Ansel Adams used TRI-X/HC-110 combination for 35mm, 120 and 4X5. The differences between all the mentioned developers is not as great as one might think. D-76 is the developer that all are measured against. If you are unhappy with your combination, what are you looking for; a sharper image or smaller grain? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexis_neel Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 XTol straight for 8 minutes, unless I want more pronounced grain, then Rodinal 1:50 (can't remember the time though) Alexis www.alexisneel.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue_sun408 Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 For Tri-X (35mm), ID-11 (straight), XTOL (straight). For Tri-X (120), ID-11 (1:1), XTOL (1:1), HC110 (dil.H). My preference is XTOL for giving close to true film speed as well as a bit more "umph" to the shadows, but all three have never failed me, it's more a matter of exposing the film properly than anything to do with any ONE developer IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I started out with D-76 as a kid back in the 1960s. But the community and school darkrooms I used ran replenishing lines and students were assigned in rotating shifts to be responsible for replenishing developer, stop bath and fixer. Too many times they wouldn't pay attention and killed the developer by pouring in stop bath or fixer. So I switched to HC-110 and mixed it as a one-shot developer. Used it through college and my newspaper, shooting Tri-X exclusively. It was good enough for routine pushes to 800 and produced excellent results at 200-320 for my fine art pretensions. Several years ago I tried ID-11 (just a variation of D-76) for a year or two. It worked great with Tri-X and TMX. But I noticed some variation in developer activity over a six month period. I switched back to HC-110 for normal use, Diafine for shooting at 1200 and Microphen for pushes to 1600 and beyond. Occasionally I use Rodinal. I could get by with just HC-110. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
art_arkin Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 I've recently started deving Tri-X in Tmax Dev. This gets bad press from many on photo.net but I love it, really tight defined grain along with the usual tonal smoothnes. Rating 120 tri-x at 200 in tmax dev is one of my favourite combos, so sharp and so very smooth. 12x12 hassy prints look jaw dropping good and are very easy to print. I also love 120 Neopan 400 in tmax dev. It's virtually grainless at any regular print size, certainly 12x12 just ensure you don't over dev it, same goes for Tri-x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spider_. Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Tri-X in DDX <img src="http://fototime.com/{1F04AA98-C17C-4946-B0CB-454D6F950810}/ picture.JPG"> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Rodinal. I rate Tri-X at 160 ASA and dev in Rodinal 1:50, 20 C, 8 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aurelien_le_duc Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 I use Calbe A49 1+1 24�C for 10 minutes with TXP 320 at EI 200 The same with 400 (EI 400) TX but 9 minutes instead of 10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcoates Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 <p>I like it in Ilford DD-X. Here's an example:</p> <img src="http://www.coatesplace.com/photos/bw-24/small/park-jugglers.jpg" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rui_alves_da_silva Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 EI 200 d76 1:1 a 20 C for 8 minutes. N+1 9m30s, N+2 very good look and marvelous extras zones for 12m30s. Ei 400 d76 1:1 for 10m30s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnance Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 My main film is Tri-X and the developer is Microdol-X (replenished). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnance Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 An example.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_sauer Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I usually us D76 straight just because it still looks like classic Tri-X and doesn't exacerbate grain too much. I follow the time/temerature timetable on the Kodak website and haven't got it wrong yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
profhlynnjones Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 My favorites have always been, UFG full strength, D76 (full strrength), Acufine full strength, Diafine, HC110 (Dil. B, 1:31), D76 1:1 in that order. There are reasons for all of these! Lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothelle Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I love Kodak developers;-) I use Microdol-X, Xtol, HC-110, and Tmax. I use all of them at 75 degrees and I get some of the finest grains full range of tones and love my 16x20 prints from 35mm to large format. I have to agree with Arthur on the Tmax developer. The lab I got my sidekick from turn me onto it. I have process Tri-X in just about anything I can get my hands on and never had I problem with this film. www.photo.net/photos/Rothelle's%20Gallery<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonnici Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 i was introduced to tri-x 400 shoot at 200 and process in rodinal. i've learned it, live it and love it.... :-D<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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