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what film for what subject and conditions


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This may be a little daft but I am fairly new with B&W. I realise

each film gives a different effect. Can someone tell me (or point me

to a source that can tell me) what films are used under what

circumstances?

E.g. what film for landscape bright daylight blue skies, what with

landscape overcast. Portrait, architecture, people/street, etc.

Any advice?

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It's not just the film; the developer has quite a bit to do with it too. So, your question should probably be what "film-developer" combination for what situation.

 

The answers are:

 

1) Search the acrhives.

 

2) Experiment and experience.

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For now I'd suggest sticking with one film, one developer, etc., to minimize the variables. You'll learn a lot more, and more quickly.

 

For my first 30+ years in photography I used Tri-X almost exclusively. The only variable was the developer. While in school and at community darkrooms where D-76 replenishment was the standard occasionally the students assigned to maintain the chemicals killed the developer by "accidentally" pouring in stop bath or fixer. So I switched to HC-110 concentrate, which I kept in a locker or my bag and mixed up myself for one-shot use. I followed this same practice as a photojournalist.

 

Other than some rolls of Plus-X and a couple of experiments with infrared film, I never tried another b&w film until I was almost 40 years old. By that time I was ready to experiment and spent a couple of years trying dozens of combinations of films and developers.

 

Since then I've pruned back a bit to four favorite films and three developers: TMX, Tri-X, TMY and Delta 3200. I could do without TMY if absolutely necessary but it pushes to 1600 really well and doesn't look like Delta 3200 or pushed Tri-X; and, for developers, HC-110, Microphen and Diafine. I photograph architecture, landscapes, still lifes indoors and outdoors, people, you name it. That handful of materials is more than enough. Better photographers than I'll ever be have built careers around one film and one developer.

 

My main variables now are on the printing end.

 

If you start out with something like Tri-X you can expose it from 200 to 1600 (not on the same roll, tho'), with appropriate development for each, and get dramatically different results. Or HP5+. Or TMY. Or Delta 400. Really doesn't matter. A slower film like Plus-X or FP4+ if you don't expect to do any handheld low light photography.

 

Concentrate on the fundamentals of exposure, development, composition and use of light. As you do this you'll attain the skills to enable you to get more benefit from experimenting with different materials later.

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Lex likes to copy & paste from his scrapbook, because this question gets asked so often! :`)

 

 

Since you used the word "daft" I'm assuming you're from Our Closest Ally, England... And Ilford

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/home.asp

makes a fine range of B&W films, which you can easily buy at Jessop's.

 

See

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=3&t=Consumer+%26+Professional+Films

for a list of available films, including a cross-over chart between Ilford and Kodak.

 

Happy Shooting!

 

Dan in New Joisey

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<i>Heck, I wish I was efficient enough to keep copies of my favorite replies on the PC. Nope, most of the time I just regurgitate - Lex</i>

<p><p>

Lex - when are you going to stop procrastinating, get off your duff, unpack those boxes and write a photo.net article on your insights on film/dev combo and darkroom techniques? :-)

<p><p>

KL

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Funny you should mention that. Recently, I think it was when we noticed the movie "Seven" was on TV - again - my cousin, her husband, son and I were discussing which of Dante's seven deadly sins applied to each of us. When my turn came my cousin barked out "Procrastination!"
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