Film and Developer combination for a beginner

[dan_brittain]

I am getting ready to start doing my own darkroom work at home. I had some darkroom experience in college but I would like to ask for a few hints. For a beginner, what would be a good combination of film and developer to start with. In school they preached T-max films and developer. Maybe this is best for beginners, I dont know. I would like to use something that is economical because I am on a tight budget. What ever I end up using, I plan to use for a while so that I can get use to it. What about stop, fixer etc.? Does it matter?And yes, I have looked over the archives here and there is alot of useful information. I just wanted to narrow my search.

Thanks

Dan

[jtr1]

Dan,

 

<p>

 

When I started I used Arista Film, Chemistry, and Paper from

Freestyle Camera.

 

<p>

 

The cost allowed me to experiment, and it closly mimics Ilfords Film,

Chemistry, and paper. As I mastered the basics, I tried other films,

comparing them to what I was able to accomplish with the Arista Brand.

 

<p>

 

I now use Ilford, and I am quite happy with it, I was happier with

the results of their 3200 speed film for sports, and use 5+ as my

regular film. I shoot a lot of sports, so this is what I found to be

both economical and produce the results I was looking for.

 

<p>

 

Having good luck with them, I would recomend them.

 

<p>

 

Jeff

[larry_rudy]

It's generally said that one of the most tried and true

film/developer combinations is Tri-X/D-76. It's more forgiving than

the T-Max process, although I have had pretty good results with T-Max

film and developer. You just have to be precise in your exposure and

development with these materials (obviously a good practice anyway).

I wouldn't worry too much about what particular brand of stop bath

and fixer to use. As a matter of fact, I do not even use a stop bath

any more for film, just a water rinse between the developer and

fixer. Just be sure you use a hardening fixer when fixing the film

(Kodak powdered fixer and Kodafix solution are both good all around

choices).

[bobatkins]

I'd avoid Tmax films and developers. They do require more precise

control over temperature and time than "regular" film and chemistry.

 

<p>

 

For general use I'd suggest HP5+ or Tri-X in HC-110. HC-110 is cheap

and it lasts forever in the concentrate. Both Tri-X and HP5+ are quite

forgiving of exposure errors, both are cheap and both can be pushed a

couple of stops if you want faster film.

 

<p>

 

I don't use stop, just a water rinse and I use Kodak's general purpose

fixer (whatever it's called!).

[robert_orofino3]

Another vote for Tri-X in D-76 (I prefer the 1:1 dilution).Tri-X is very forgiving and is available (in the US at any rate) just about everywhere, ditto for D-76.

[j._patric_dahl_n]

Yeah, I recommend Tri-X in D-76 too. If you like to use a film with a

lower speed than Tri-X (400 Asa) I recommend Plus-X (125 Asa).

 

<p>

 

I used Tmax films before, but we never became friends...

[pj_taylor]

<p>I also recommend Tri-X and Plus-X. They are both beautiful films.

They are easy to work with and are very forgiving. You can get

comfortable with the development process using these films and

inexpensive developers like D-76 or Xtol. Then later on, give T-Max a

try. A lot of people like T-Max and a lot do not. The T-Max developer

is expensive and the films can be difficult to get comfortable with

and learn. BTW, you do not have to use T-Max developers with T-Max

films. Kodak recommends you do though.</p>

 

<p>I like Kodak's indicator stop bath. It's cheap and lasts forever.

For Tri-X and Plus-X you will want a fixer with hardener and for T-

Max you will want a fixer without hardener. This because supposedly T-

Max's design does not need a hardener. Honestly I have not seen a

difference. I use T-Max fixer because it is the only one available

from my supply shot. It has no hardener and is too expensive. I use

it to fix Tri-X with no problems.</p>

[terry_carraway]

Another vote for Tri-X or Plus-X. But also Ilford HP-5+ and FP-4+

(ISO 400 and ISO 125 respectively). All are "old style" emulsions.

 

<p>

 

For developer, D-76 or Xtol (watch Xtol for caked powders, check the

archives). Also Ilford ID-11 (basically the same as D-76), or for

lower cost, Sprint Film Developer (also basically D-76).

 

<p>

 

For stop, I use 1/2 strength Kodak Indicator Stop. I can't yet bring

myself to use just water. But any stop is fine if you use it, but I

do recommend mixing half strength.

 

<p>

 

For Fix, I use Kodak Rapid Fix, but any rapid fix is fine (Ilford,

Sprint, etc). I suggest settling on a rapid fix since there is some

concern that modern films are not properly fixed with standard fix. I

can find no recommendations from Kodak either way with regards to

hardening. Ilford says to only use a hardening fixer for high temp

(over 100F or 38C) or roller transport. Hardening increases the time

required for proper washing. I do not use hardener with any film.

 

<p>

 

I do use a hypo clearing agent, and for that I use Heico Perma Wash,

but most any of the ones out there will work, or just buy Sodium

Sulfite and mix your own. If you use Tmax films a hypo clearing step

is required for rapid removal of the purple tint.

 

<p>

 

For the lowest cost, look into Sprint chemistry. For film, buy mail

order, and buy in bulk. Maybe even bulk load, but I find that too

much of a pain for the savings.

[daniel_obradovic]

FOR HIGH END PHOTOGRAPHICAL EQUIPMENT (AS LEICA, LINHOF,

RODENSTOCK,...) I RECOMMEND ILFORD DELTA 100 FILM AND AGFA RODINAL

DEVELOPER. LESS EXPENSIVE FILM IS ILFORD PAN-F (ALSO WITH AGFA

RODINAL DEVELOPER). WHICH EVER EQUIPMENT YOU HAVE IT WILL POOL OUT

MAXIMUM FROM YOUR EQUIPMENT (THESE WILL GIVE YOU SHARPEST PHOTOGRAPH).

USE DEVELOPING TIME 6MIN AND 30SEC FOR DELTA 100, AND 5MIN AND 45SEC

FOR PAN-F. DEVELOPER MUST BE DILUTED 1 PART RODINAL+50PARTS CITY

WATER. 20 DEG C. THIS IS NOT IN ACCORDANCE WITH MANUFACTURERS

RECOMENDATION, WHICH IS PRINTING ERROR. USE ABOVE AND SING.