Choosing a film for portraits in a hurry - prompt replies appreciated

[davemmm]

Sorry to jump in with a plea, but I'm in a slightly difficult

position.<br>

I've been asked by a charity I volunteer for to take a set of

portraits of scientists whose work they fund.<br>

I've emphasised that I'm doing this in a voluntary capacity, and that

I have only limited experience of portraiture.<p>

I'm used to using Fuji Superia 200 or 400, and would prefer to play it

safe by sticking to what I know. I'll probably have a maximum of 30

minutes with each sitter, and being scientists they may not be the

most extrovert subjects.

The guy who's asked me to do these woudl quite like moody b&w shots.

I've suggested colour negatives and digital post-processing might be

better for familiarity, versatility in case they want to try colour

printing in the future, and also speed and cost. I'll be using a

minolta dimage 5400 scanner to do the digital conversion.

I have a dedicated canon 430ex flashgun, which I can move off camera

by up to 60cm, and possibly natural or artificial lighting.<p>

I know this is really vague, but unfortunately I have no more

information myself, and will be doing the shoot in less than 7 days'

time.<br>

Should I stick with what I know, if so, which speed of superia woudl

be most appropriate, or do I need a different emulsion entirely?

[timcorridan]

if i didn't mind spending a few extra bucks on fast shipping methods i would send for some different film, like fuji 400 h.(nph). what is his idea of a "moody B & W shot" use window light/reflector if possible, it beats most "speedlight" light.

[davemmm]

Thanks for the fantastically rapid response. The moodiness is quite a vague idea, but he's after a fairly tight-cropped face shot with powerful eyes-type of thing. I wouldn't take it on if I was being paid, but as they're doing it on shoestring, and it's me or nothing, my shots will be quite literally better than nothing, and somewhat cheaper than a professional.<p>

What emulsions are 'kinder' to imperfect skin. Or would a little work in the digital darkroom to remove them after be better?

[stoem]

I second the Fuji NPH 400.

Depending on the output of your lights? Watts or Guide #

You might go with Fuji NPS 160.

These are film made especially for portraits very nice skin tones and natural looking colors. Great stuff. Any dedicated photo store or lab should have these films in a stock. At the lab I use they keep it in a fridge, so you have to ask them for it. (Its not on display.) Good luck.

[roger_smith4]

A lower contrast film is nicer to skin, so try a film in Fuji's professional portrait line. I like Reala with a flash by haven't tried NPS yet. NPH (400H) is fine. For more smoothness (but less forgiving exposure) try Astia or Sensia.

 

The B&W conversions from slide film might look better than from negatives if you're trying to do a contrasty "moody" look. B&W conversions from color often look flat, so I hope you have some PS skills.

[lex_jenkins]

Superia is fine for available light photography and handles mixed artificial lighting well. But it isn't so good for direct flash - too contrasty and won't be flattering to your victims.

 

If you can't get a pro Fuji film like NPH or the newer Pro 400H, try Kodak 400UC. It's a top notch film, very flattering to skin tones including with flash and is readily available at places like Wal-mart.

[James G. Dainis]

I second the Fuji Pro 400H (Formerly Fuji 400 NPH) for portraits. It is what many wedding photographers use. Kodak 400UC also. As for moodiness or mood, you can create that in Photoshop.

[mike_earussi1]

Go to the library and look at the portraits in all the back issues of Discover magazine. I'll bet he's wanting something like that.

[cooper8168]

I third the NPH (or Pro 400H, or whatever they changed the name to).

[jordan_f1]

Portra 160NC is also very nice. For black and white you could try a 400 speed C-41 process black and white film from Kodak or Ilford which you could overexpose a stop or more for a more contrasty look.

[davemmm]

This is great stuff - thanks.<br>

I wouldn't dream of using direct flash, I'll be bouncing it off something white (the multimillion pound building's pretty new, so nice clean white walls)<p>

If I stick with the auto metering of my EOS 30, will the pro emulsions give me some leeway in exposure, or will they punish me for daring to use them? I know full auto's lazy, but I really don't want to experiment too much on someone else's time<br>

If I can't get the 400nph or 400uc (hopefully not a problem as I'll be looking in London), what alternatives might people suggest. Are the pro 'portrait' emulsions a good idea, [i see Reala was mentioned] or beyond my abilities?<p>

Thanks again for all your help.

[davemmm]

I should probably qualify the 'artificial lighting' in my original posting. Office/lab fluorescent filling in shadows, maybe something tungsten like a desklamp if I'm lucky, plus windows or skylights.<br>

The more I explain, the less I want to take it on!

[roger_smith4]

The more you post, the less I think film is your main problem.

Honestly, any film can work okay.

 

Now get to the book store and find a book on portraiture (or start with the Learn section on this site).

Good luck.

[drjedsmith]

Dave,<BR>

Kodak portra 160NC or Fuji 160 are a good bet for flash use and smooth, pleasant skin tones. I would rate either at ISO 100 for an extra cushion with your flash exposure. Much easier to scan a slightly overexposed shot than trying to pull contrast and detail out of a muddy, underexposed one. Considerably less grain than 400 & 800 speed films, especially when scanning, and since you're using "auto mode", it will be more lenient with your flash setup than if you used an ISO 100 film rated at 80.<BR><BR>

Don't stress this one too much. Very easy to scan with your 5400 and get good B&W results. Sit the guys by a window, set the Flash on TTL, bouce off the ceiling angled from opposite the window for balance, and you've got some good light. You could really get some good portraiture practice from this, and hey - it's free. On both ends! :-)<br>

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.<BR>

Jed

[art_arkin]

Kodak 160nc is so delicious, just right in my opinion, also it scans really well. The old FUJI NPS is great for straight portraits as well, very flattering, particularly for those with less than perfect complexion. In both cases I'd rate 100 for natural light, 125-160 with strobes.

 

Under no circumstances use superia for portraits. Its much much too contrasty with very little tonal seperation compared to NC or NPS. Not a particularly flattering film, I even find Kodak VC too contrasty and thats low contrast compared to Superia. Superia and vc are fine for environmental portraits but if you are filling the frame with the subject then drop the contrasty films and stick with NC or NPS. NC is slightly warmer than NPS.

 

If you can, be sure to treat the flash with a brolly or shoot it into a white board. Best light imho is just a big north facing window, I've never had a disapointed customer with this gorgeous light that just glows on film. Rate at 100 but don't pull it in the lab just process normally.

 

Sit your subject so they face the window and get in between. This also gives gorgeous highlight spots in the eyes which are essential, don't forget these when using a strobe. Lack of the white dot in the eye can really make or break a portrait.

 

Might be worth bringing a kodak grey card, shoot a couple of frames in the light you intend to use with your subject. It will really help you colour balance the following pictures after scanning.

 

You say only 30 minutes with each sitter.. Wow thats an eternity, try 3 minutes.

 

Good luck, and remember to keep it simple (i.e avoid flash, go with north light), find a web site with cheesy scientist jokes, buy a Harpo marks horn that makes a rediculous noise, put a remote controlled fart box under their chair or loosen your trousers then stand up so they drop and immediately fire a salvo of shots.

 

They'll love resulting pictures.

[art_arkin]

Moody black and white shots of scientists... Bah!

 

but if you really have to then go with b&w c41 kodak 400 cn, shoot it at 200. Its great film and gives you an extra stop to move. Also if shooting daylight, tripod mount your camera, particularly with 160 asa film at 100.

 

Also beg borrow or steal an incident meter. Do not, I repeat, do not use auto mode on your eos 30. If you cant get a meter, then swing by Jessops and grab a Kodak grey card (about 12 quid). Meter of that, lock the exposure and shoot. It will give you the equivalent of an incident meter reading, i.e. a perfectly exposed subject.

 

I say Daylight daylight daylight

 

Moody photos, hmm put on some 'hold on while I go hang myself music' first. take a few photos to please your client and when you reckon the shot is in the bag, hit the Fart machine (a tenner at Maplins).

 

Sure, moody and fart machines go together like Beef stock milk and sugar but seriously, save it for the end of the shoot. I bet they'll pick those shots over the (BAH!) moody black and whites.

[drjedsmith]

Does the EOS30 not have a spot meter?

[art_arkin]

Jedidiah,

 

Not sure about the Eos 30, I hope for David's sake that it does have a spot meter but just out of curiosity, how would you use such metering in a portrait shoot situation?

 

Would you use a Grey card?

 

Cheers.

[philippartridge]

<p>I agree with the 160 film suggestions. The 400 emulsions are designed for medium format and can grain up in scans from 35mm which is less tolerant (IMO) of exposure error, due to greater enlargement at any given size. Since you are using a 5400 it's 35mm right? </p>

 

<p>You have pretty high levels of control over the subject pose and lighting (such as it may be), so either 160 film (at iso125) off a solid tripod is my suggestion. Surprising to this chronic user of 120 Reala, the 160 pro films from each major both scan extremely well and are robust to exposure error, within reasonable limits.</p>

 

<p>NC160 is hard to go past, and Fuji's new Pro160S</a> looks to be a <strong><a href="http://www.gnyman.com/FujiPro160.htm">significant improvement</a></strong> over an already fine film. These will make lovely 8x10 prints, and larger for subjects that look good when 'soft'..In case others did not say so, these and the other (400 class) wedding pro films, like the peerless Pro400H, are far kinder to your subject, and are therefore <i>far easier</i> for you to use! Experimentation might be good for you rather than staying with what you start out with - this is especially true of film.</p>

[alan_chan4]

Bouncing the 430EX is not going to give you much light so better have some ISO400 film ready. Fujicolor NHP (Pro 400H, same film, new name) is good but better to avoid underexposure or will be grainy. Regular Superia 400 has reddish skin tone so better avoid.

[ken_bynum]

Hello, David. I use the Elan 7E/EOS30 with the 420EX. I don't trust auto/matrix metering for portraits because the highlights tend to be blown out. I spot meter the face or hair or use center weighted metering. I also use the Lumiquest pocket bouncer for bounced flash when no walls are available. I suggest a tripod with the remote release, too, for the best quality shots. For film, NPS160 (PRO160S) gives beautiful results, followed by NPH400 (PRO400H) and then 400UC. I shoot all three. With 400UC I find it is very sensitive to underexposure when using flash but get beautiful results with natural light. I tried Superia XTRA 400 but have not been happy with it. I get much better results with XTRA 800. Hope this helps.

[drjedsmith]

I'm pretty booked here at work, so Ken beat me to the punch. I'm no portrait expert, such as McIntosh, but we've all messed around and read enough to know what "generally works".<BR>

As Ken just said, "I spot meter [off] the face or hair" - that would be my suggestion. More specifically, I would meter off the skin by the eye that is closer to the window. Would I use a grey card? Maybe. However, if he hasn't used a grey card or a hand held meter before, why start something new under pressure? I would be inclined to stick to what was familiar.<BR>

Even though your flash is not that powerful, USE IT anyway. As bounced fill, it will balance the ambient light, give you that nice white glint in the center of the eye that makes a portrait "sparkle", and will lessen chances of unflattering dark shadows under the eyes.<BR>

TTL OTF flash is actually pretty accurate. Arguably more accurate than flash with many DSLRs, because it can measure the reflectance off the film itself.<BR><BR>

I use the Maxxum 7 / 5600HS(D) setup now, which has superb matrix metering built in, and its TTL flash is quite good as well, although like any computer, it can screw up if the lighting is tricky. I can't imagine the Elan 7 would be too inferior in that department, but I could be wrong...<BR>

Best of luck,<BR>

Jed

[35mmdelux]

if you have artificial lighting use slow fuji superia 100 or 200. If not, then use the 400. Piece of cake. (KEEP IT SIMPLE)

[rick_helmke]

This may sound cheesy and cheap but my suggestion would be to use the Kodak c-41 based B&W film, C400Tn I think it is called. Take it to WalMart and have it processed and scanned to a disc. Total cost for processing is under $3. Put it into PhotoShop and boost the contrast a bit. The results are suprisingly good and you can get excellent prints from a $100 printer. I've been much more pleased with this method than printing from a single channel or converting to a greyscale mode.

 

As for lighting, keep it simple. Two lights, maybe three. You can also do wonders with some window light and a couple of reflectors. White poster board will do. Work something out ahead of time so you aren't messing around with the equipment with your subjects at hand. Get comfortable with a set-up so the tools don't get in the way of the work. Good luck.

 

Rick H.

[davemmm]

I've been able to get hold of Reala 100 to try out with one subject who can't make it next week, so I'll be doing a test shoot this afternoon before doing the bulk next week. The sales assistant assured me I wouldn't be disppointed, as he'd used it successfully for weddings with excellent results - we shall see...<br>

I've got an atrium space with a high glass ceiling and predominantly white walls as well as my flashgun, so it should work out OK.<br>

Thanks for all your advice, I may report back in a week or so - any last minute tips?<p>

Thanks again,<br>

David