How do I Cross Process high contrast landscapes?

[parasko_p]

Dear All,

I want to experiment with cross-processing techniques using 35mm

film format for landscape photography. The landscapes are high

contrast (think outback Australia -bright sun/sky/strong shadows). I

want to achieve warmish colours (think Kodak) but produce shadow

detail and not a high contrast image. I have seen portraits where

highlights are seriously blown with cross-processing..not what I'm

looking to achieve.

 

Any recommendations for the type of film and exposure settings? I

prefer to not push/pull as film will be lab-processed so cost saving

is important.

 

In addition, can I assume film with ISO 400 = very grainy when cross-

processed?

 

Thanks in advance.

[parasko_p]

The last (landscape) image on the link below is what I'm trying to achieve, but potentially with less contrast:

 

http://www.flickr.com/groups/crossprocessing/discuss/28074/

[josphy]

I don't know much about cross processing, but from what I have seen, that picture you referred to looks about as low contrast as you are gonna get. Someone else can correct me if you are wrong. I would say that if you liked the look of that particular pic, try the film the photographer mentions -- Elite Chrome. You might try shooting the same scene and bracket like 1/2 stops a few stops either way to see what comes out the way you like. And as to lower contrast maybe shoot at times of day when the light is lest contrasty.

[mona_chrome]

I have been cross processing since the early 90's, both neg to pos and pos to neg. I assume

you are talking pos to neg, as it is the most seen lately. Basically, it is a very high contrast

process to start with. Most of the time, you get better results if you rate the film a stop over.

shoot 100 at 200 asa. Problem is that unless you are good at scanning and have a good

scanner/scanner software, it will be more contrasty than the image you referred to. On the

other hand, I have successfully made x-proc film look normal by scannning it as a

transparency and then reversing it. These days, although I still shoot film, I have found the

process much more reliable if I shoot neg and use photoshop to get the "look". Shooting

high contrast subjects with x-proc will probably not get you to your example!

[rowland_mowrey]

You can lower the contrast of cross processing E6 film in C41 by adding citrazinic acid to the color developer and then readusting the pH back to the original value.

 

This was recommended by Kodak for years for what you are trying to achieve. However, you may still get crossover, as the CD4 developer was not designed for CD3 films. This has always caused a bit of a problem since the processes changed from E4 and C22 to E6 and C41.

 

Ron Mowrey

[bueh]

<blockquote><i>In addition, can I assume film with ISO 400 = very grainy when cross-processed?

</i></blockquote>

<p>In 35mm? Sure, but if you want to avoid grain shoot with a larger format or don't cross-process.

 

<blockquote><i>I prefer to not push/pull as film will be lab-processed so cost saving is important.

</i></blockquote><p>

If cost saving is your game, I recommend not to cross-process at all. CP film virtually always need to be pushed, and as the results are a bit unpredictable, you need to experiment a lot (means burning a lot of film).

 

<blockquote><i>I want to achieve warmish colours (think Kodak) but produce shadow detail and not a high contrast image.

</i></blockquote>

<p>If you want to CP, I think your best bet is crossing negative film in E-6 chemistry to get positives. For example, try Superia 800 exposed at ISO 400, crossed in E-6 with a 1 stop push. It might produce the look you are after.<p>

Crossing daylight slide film always results in a high contrast image, and even crossed tungsten film has not low contrast, although the colors aren't as much exaggerated.<p>

If you want to get a picture with low contrast you just might want to use a regular low contrast film like Fuji 160S, possibly with a warming filter, and without any special processing (well, you might want to try overexposing and pulling to lower the contrast).

[bueh]

Or you could use B/W filters to alter the look of your images. A yellow, dark yellow, orange or even green-yellow filter all raise the contrast a little, but add a nice color cast.