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How to get huge grain?


omar_ozenir

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Hello,

I once saw a great 30x40 B&W print in an exhibition. What particularly struck me upon inspecting the print closer was the very large grain. I could clearly see the large (hexagonal?) pieces of grain. It was as if a large amount of "tiles" of grain had been spread out on the paper.

Since then I have always wondered how the photographer did that.

 

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Does anybody know how to get this large grain?

 

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All Ilford and Kodak films are available for me. My standard developer is ID-11 but I could also use Dektol. Unfortunately I won't be able to use any Agfa product.

(FWIW, I have 1.5 years of B&W experience and I have my own darkroom)

 

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Thank you very much for any help in advance.

 

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Kind Regards,

omar

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Not surprisingly, it's basically a matter of film choice/speed and

development, plus negative size vs. print size.

 

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If Kodak still makes it, Recording Film - with a standard speed of

1000, this was the 1950s version of TMax P3200 - is famous for

producing big "pointallistic" grain (especially when pushed a stop or

two). Failing that, you're stuck with 400-speed old-tech films like

Tri-X and HP5. (There's no point in using the newer TMax or Delta

films - they're totally engineered for fine grain!) The trick with

getting mega-grain with these films is, once again, exposure speed

and development.

 

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Tri-X or HP5 shot at 1600 and (over)developed in straight D-76 (or ID-

11) for TWICE the standard time will give you some grain. You can

also go further and up the speed and development even more - go ahead

and experiment. Another thing to try is harsher-working developers:

old sheet-film developers like Kodak DK-50 yield pretty grain results

with smaller-format films; print developers like Dektol should also

produce mega-grain. (I have no clue what kind of developing times to

use for prints developers with film, though - maybe somebody else can

help with this.)

 

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Also, agitate the heck out of your film during development. While the

new-tech films flourish with even constant (machine-style) agitation,

the older films will definitely show more pronounced grain. Agitate

violently and as much as you can stand to - that should promote some

grain.

 

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Another approach is to blow up your negative more. Try shooting with

a subminiature camera like a Minox, or an Olympus Pen half-frame 35mm

- or just simulate it by using only a fraction of the full frame. A

quarter of a 35mm frame is roughly equivalent to a Minox negative,

and this will yield grainy 8x10s even with a fine-grain film: with

something like pushed Tri-X, you'll get grain like cannonballs!

 

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And while you're busy breaking the rules, try for partial or full

reticulation by using radically different solution temperatures: a 20-

degree hotter water rinse between the developer and fixer, a much

colder fixer, a final wash in hot water, etc. While full reticulation

isn't grain, per se, it can still create an interesting image full of

jagged transitions.

 

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Basically, have some fun breaking the rules and experimenting!

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Kodak used to make a 120 film called Royal-X Pan with a nominal EI of

1000. I don't know if it is still available, but it had very large

grain. You might also try developing the film you choose in Rodinal,

which has no solvent action and will not reduce grain size.

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You can get large grain out of Tmax if you push it like crazy. I

have been successful with Tmax 400 at 1600, developed in Xtol 1:2 for

25min.

 

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Shoot with a wide angle lens, and then crop down to the very center

portion, and enlarge that. I use an Olympus Pen-F, and there is no

way I am giving up 1/2-frame and Ilford Universal 400.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The results you're describing definitely sound more like reticulation

than true grain to me. Basically, reticulation is when the gelatin of

the emulsion wrinkles up microscopically.

 

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As Michael Goldfarb has suggested you can produce it deliberately by

dunking the film from a hot solution into a cold one (or an alkali

bath into an acid one). Results aren't very predictable though. Your

best bet is to experiment with some blank film, and when you get the

desired effect, use it to "sandwich" print the reticulation onto the

required negative.

 

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Modern emulsions are very tough and quite resistant to even deliberate

reticulation. You might need to soften the emulsion in a 2 to 5%

Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) bath first.

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  • 11 months later...

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