Fuji 100 and 400 - which developer (and fixer)

[tuomo.saarikko]

Hello!

 

As Agfa has left the building I need to change the company of B&W-

films. I decided to go for Fuji because of the price and availability.

 

I search through many topics about this but there were too many of

them and they were not so good for me. I need to know a few things:

 

1. I need to shoot at 100 and 400 (possibly 400@800 also). I think

this leaves a few developers out. Which are left?

 

2. I think it should be a fine-grain developer which would be the

same for both films.

 

3. It should be easy to get = usual developer (not Fuji's liquids).

 

4. And the fixer. Does it matter which one to use? (I have Agefix

quite a lot).

 

I you have a few minutes time to share your experiences it would

really save me hours of work in trying in the darkroom.

 

Thank you!

Tuomo

[roman_sonnleitner1]

I personally don't have any experience with Acros 100, but Neopan 400 is my alltime favorite film (and I also use Neopan 1600 occasionally); have tried it with various developers (including Rodinal, ID11, Microphen, XTOL, a homebrew 2-bath, etc.), and found none that gave bad results.

 

My personal favorite is Rodinal 1+50 (EI 250, 9.5 min. @ 20�C), since I like high-acutance negs with crisp grain, but if you are shooting in 35mm format and don't like grain, I'd recommend Calbe A49 (diluted 1+1) - this gives very fine-grained negs, with full 400 ASA speed, and reasonable sharpness (not as good as Rodinal, but quite OK); this developer als works well for pushing NP400 to EI 800/1000, or, if you'd like something with better shadow definition at that speed, try Neopan 1600 at EI 800 to 1250 - slightly coarser grain, and a very unique look (dramatic-contrasty, great for portraits, a bit unusual for landscapes, etc.)

[avisualemotion]

Tuomo,

<br>

I use Acros 100 and Neopan 400 and 1600 for all I use Paterson Aculux2. I like the results very much. you can see detailed description with times and agitation in <a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/article/films_and_developers/">my article</a>. There you can see also examples of photographs developed that way.

Paterson Aculux2 I am ordering from UK. I am based in Europe so it is fast and cheap.

<br>

<br>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a><br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/shop/">Christmas shopping until the end of November</a>

[chris_waller]

I use Rodinal. This gives excellent actuance and works very well with Fuji films. With the 400 ASA film, grain is evident but very crisp. Rodinal is not the best choice for pushing film - a 1 stop push is as much as it will do. For that you migh consider Ilford Microphen. Fixer - Ilford Hypam/Rapid Fixer is my choice but Agefix is just fine if you already have it.

[tuomo.saarikko]

Thank you for advise!

 

But the problem is that as I have heard Agfa will end the B&W manufacture. I have Rodinal a little, yes, but I would like to have a long term solution. That's why I am asking this.

 

And the liquids should be easy to get, I wouldn't like to order them from across the Europe or from U.S. (I live in Finland).

 

Ilford has a few good developers but they do something with the film speed. And I really need 100ASA not 50.

 

If anyone has something which could help me I really appriciate!

 

Tuomo

[sami heino]

D-76 should give you decent results w/ both films. Why not try it? A bag to make 1 liter is 5,50 eur in Telefoto (Helsinki).

[avisualemotion]

Tuomo,

 

you can order Paterson Aculux from www.speedgraphic.co.uk 1 liter for 11euro plus 6.5 postage that is around 18 euro. With dilution 1:9 you need 30ml for on roll of 35mm film that makes 33 rolls for 55 euro cents each.. They delivery fast and always good service. I use the from The Netherlands. I love Fuji Neopan and Aculux 2 combination. Great tones, sharpness, one shot use and convenience as it is liquid.

 

--

richard vanek

www.piskoftak.com

[profhlynnjones]

In the "so called 100" speed group, I have 3 favorite films, all of which are slightly different, Fuji neopan100 acros, Delta 100, and TMX, all in Rodinal.

 

Neopan Acros, shoot at 100, develop at 8.5 minutes 68F, 8 min at 70F, 7min at 72F, and 6.5min at 75F. Acro has such subtle tonalities that at a glance it doesn't appear to be sharp, but don't let that fool you.

 

I have always liked Fuji Neopan 400.

 

Shoot at 500 develop in full strength D76 for 6 minutes at 70F

Best results, Acufine full strength: shoot at 650 develop at 6 minujtes 70F.

 

Lynn