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What is NAS?


lake_0571

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Conni, I was merely expressing my opinion, which is not necessarily right or wrong. Apparently you disagree, and feel free to express yours. That is no need to attack me personally.

 

I, for one, usually cannot tell whether an image is shot with a 50mm/f1.2, 1.4, 1.8 or 2 or whether it is the optics is from the AI-S or AF version, or for that matter shot with a lens from some exotic brand or not. However, it is usually easy to tell the difference between a really good photographer from an average one. If one's objective is to produce high-quality images, there is no doubt in my mind that one should spend their effort on imporving their photographic skills.

 

Moreover, as long as you can afford it, IMO there is nothing wrong being an equipment collector and/or focusing on equipment differences. As I said, there is probably at least a bit of that in every one of us. However, I myself am a photographer first and my interest in equipment is always secondary.

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I have several 105mm focal length nikkors. All are different and each serve a different purpose. I have heard about *NAS* only here. I know real collectors who have real collectible (rare and expensive) lenses and gear.

 

What is claimed as NAS here is NFAS, IMO. (F = Forum).

 

Shakil- The cap on that micronikkor is almost worth the price you paid for it!

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The 50 f/1.2 and 50 f/1.4 have clear signatures when shot wide open. You can spot these lenses very easily. The 45 f/2.8 P also has a clear impression made by its steep light fall-off when shot wide open. Stop any of these lenses down, and they look pretty much like one another. After trying out all of the above, I've kept the 50 f/1.2 and 50 f/1.8. All other lenses, I only have one copy of (except that the 70-180 overlaps my 105 f/2.8 and 180 f/2.8, but then again these primes look different from the Micro Nikkor).<p>I'm not sure into which of Pawel & Shun's categories that puts me into.
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I am a photographer first and a collector not at all. But life is a photographic feast and I have not limited myself to just one or two genres. I shoot travel, documentary, macro, portraits, events and all of it interests me. If I only shot one thing, I might make do with a couple of lenses but since it's real hard to get a good macro with a 300 AFS, I have a broad range so I can get the best when I do go out to shoot. Otherwise, why bother?

 

I shoot about 800+ rolls of film a year and have a dSLR and a digital P&S, so I hardly fall into the category of someone who has a lot of cameras and lenses to sit around and look at.

 

Conni

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Shun:

 

I didn't attack you personally. I voiced my opinion of your generalization that those of us who manage to have options in our lenses are not likely to be photographers but collectors. That's what you wrote.

 

Had I said "Shun, you're an idiot for saying that those of us who live pleasantly with NAS are not photographers but collectors," then you could say I attacked you personally. I did no such thing and nothing I said can be construed as a personal attack.

 

Conni

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I currently own a 55 f/3.5 Micro that was my dad's; a 50 f/1.4 ais; a 105 f/2 AF DC ...; 180 f/2.8 AF; 300 f/2.8 AF-I along with 2 F5's.

 

Over the years I have probably owned a good 30 or more Nikkors & a number of bodies. At this point I only keep what I need & does it for me. If I want to shoot wider or larger format I will use my Wisner 4x5 w/80 Macro, 90 & 180 lenses & a Mamiya 6 w/50 & 75 lenses.

 

Different formats & lenses for different needs.

 

Between my son & I we tend to acquire items of interest & at good prices & use them - if they are not what we like then we simply sell them. A good trade-off & cheaper than renting which we don't have the option of doing here.

 

As a reference point I will check Bjorn's site for opinions & there are a number of lenses that I would like to someday try using even if for a short while. There have been no surprises with any of his opinions thus far & I appreciate his site & his work for what he does.

 

When I see a great lens for a great price it's hard to resist. I usually do but sometimes will give it a go to see if I like it or not.

 

With regards to an earlier post or two about photographers as opposed to collectors - a bit broad of a statement I feel & not an accurate point as there are countless shooters using a lot of equipment. I'm guessing that I own less Nikon equipment at this point in time than a lot of posters here.

 

Connie: Can I interest you in a used F100 for a great price? I will only sell to you if you plan on using it as I will refuse to sell to anyone who may not actually use it & put it in a cabinet. Since I know you are a photographer I feel it's okay to consider selling to you:)

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Conni, I am afraid that you are mixing up different issues. As Ilkka points out, I have accumulated quite a few Nikkor lenses over 28 years myself, although Ilkka is good at exaggerating my collection, but that is another topic. Exactly like you, every lens I buy serves a different purpose and enhances my photography. For example, the 300mm/f4 is good as a travel companion with the 500mm/f4 while the 300mm/f2.8 is better on its own with telecovertors. I have both because there is a significant weight and size difference between the two. Depending on the nature of the trip, I bring different lenses. IMO that is not NAS.

 

One has NAS if one frequently has "lens envy" (or camera body envy)and feels compelled to buy more and more continuously. And one needs to study trivial differences among lenses. There is not necessarily wrong with having NAS, but if one's primary interest is photography itself rather than the tools, you really shouldn't have NAS, at least not serious NAS.

 

In particular, given current airline luggage restrictions, it is counter-productive to have too much equipment. For those of us who like to travel to remoate places, that is a very good reason not to buy and carry too much.

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Sorry, Lee, but I hve an F100. It was never a camera I wanted particularly, but my only F5 (at that time) went in for repair and I expected it to be gone for awhile. I was about to leave on a road trip and I didn't want to be without a really good camera so I went down and bought the F100. It's a very nice camera, but it didn't get to go on the orad trip because they got my F5 in 5 days. I was amazed. I have used the F100 because it's a really nice camera and suits better than the F5 or F6 and I see no reason to sell it and take a loss. I might give it to someone one of these days.

 

Right now, there isn't anything I want and I fear remission or cure. I looked at the new offerings and nothing really moved me. Ah, well -- maybe it will grow on me.

 

Conni

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Shakil, <br>

<br>

The 55/3.5 that you bought is the old compensating aperture

version. Its a dog at infinity and excellent close up.

Bjorn Rorslett list this lens in his <a

href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/bestof.html" target="_new"><u>Best

of the Best : A not-too-serious compilation of the best Nikkor

lenses</u></a>. Its the only 55mm Micro-Nikkor he list

there.<br>

<br>

This lens will not fit Nikon AI type cameras with fixed plastic

aperture coupling levers like the FM2n, FE2, F5, F100 and D2H (also

D2X). It will fit these if the originally supplied accessory M

tube is used. The M tube has a beveled edge at the rear and

clears all the aperture coupling levers on the cameras listed

above by about 1mm. This will allow the lens to be used at image

ratios of 1:2 to 1:1. Stop down metering via the DOF preview is

available on all but the F100 and D2H (& D2X I would think).<br>

<br>

If image ratios of 1:10 to 1:2 are desired the lens can be

installed on all of these with the use of the 5.8mm K1 Ring which

is a part of the Nikon K-Ring Set, about $30.00 to $50.00 (USD).

The Nikon E2 tube will also fit all the camera above. The E2 tube

features a manual maximum aperture plunger that can be fitted

with a Nikon AR-2 cable release if desired. <br>

<br>

The E2 and M tubes can be chipped for matrix metering

and color matrix metering on cameras that support this. If you

dont mind some fiddling you can use the Shooting Menu, Non-CPU

Lens Data and Exposure Compensation features on the D2H, D2X and

I think the D200 to obtain color matrix metering. That's right,

color matrix metering on an unmodified vintage 1965 to 1969 lens.<br>

<br>

If using flash with a flash meter you can focus on the meters

receptor, domed or flat, pop an open flash and read the f/stop

and set it. At apertures of f/5.6 and smaller there is no need to

use compensation for light loss as the lens does this for you.

Exposure this way is dead on. Compensation with slide film may be

desired for very light or dark subjects just as one would use

with subjects at normal shooting distance.<br>

<br>

Here is an image showing the 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor Auto (CA version)

with the originally supplied accessory M tube.<br>

<br>

<img

src="http://www.photo.net/bboard/image?bboard_upload_id=16703684"><br>

<br>

DO NOT have this lens *AI(ed) unless it is one that can be

according to Nikon and only with the appropriate original Nikon

AI kit. See Roland Vinks site for the kit number and Bjorn

Rorsletts site for information on why not to have it *AI(ed).<br>

Here are some links you may find of interest...<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html"

target="_new"><u>http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html</u></a><u><br>

</u><br>

<a

href="http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#55%20micro"

target="_new"><u>http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html#55%20micro</u></a>

<br>

<br>

Here is a link to the manual for your lens...<br>

<br>

<a

href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=16703884"

target="_new"><u>http://www.photo.net/bboard/uploaded-file?bboard_upload_id=16703884</u></a><br>

<br>

All the 55/3.5 and the 55/2.8 Micro-Nikkors are great lenses. My

favorites are the 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor Auto (CA version) and the

55/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor.<br>

<br>

I recommend that you collect them all!<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

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Thanks for the nice summary, Dave! Actually, after getting the lens, I did some research, and have already acquired most of these info from your (and others') previous posts :-). The manual was really helpful explaining a lot of things.

 

Also, if you can recall, previously I did a quick and dirty job chipping an M2-tube (using super-glue ;-)) to use with my 180mm lens (was too chicken to convert the PN-11). I don't have any intention to AI-convert this lens, as both of my manual focus bodies can handle this lens (FE/F3HP). Also I am experimenting with the chipped M2-tube and the 55mm on my chepo F75.

 

So, what does J.U.M. stands for? Thanks again!<div>00E8gx-26428884.jpg.a815e26f39ed41c271e5b4028f93978e.jpg</div>

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