xosni Posted April 6, 2001 Share Posted April 6, 2001 I want information about this technique. I just tried developing Technical pan in FX-1 using the stand developing method. It was 1:1 dilution for 10 minutes @ 29º C. I only agitated for 30 sec at the begining then non. Tho the negative came out extremely underdeveloped it still look encouraging. So next time I'm gonna try it in an undiluted FX-1 developer but... for how long? And should I give it any tank inversions in the middle of this long period? <p> thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j._patric_dahl_n Posted April 6, 2001 Share Posted April 6, 2001 Hmmmmm, don't the times for stand developing be around one hour or more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_devoue Posted April 6, 2001 Share Posted April 6, 2001 I am testing FX-2(not FX-1) as of late, and I find that an hour at 68 degrees is not quite enough, and that you have to remember that your temp. can go up or come down, depending on the ambient temp. Setting the tank on the garage floor is the wrong thing to do. I don't know about those temps- 29C? Haven't tried. Don't think I will, and I don't think I'd try agitating, either. Good luck, I hope it works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_kemner1 Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 I've done stand development with both FX2 and Acutol (FX14). The most dependable approach is to use distilled water that has matched the ambient temperature of the room. The temp needs to be between 65 and 70 degrees F. Presoak the film for two minutes. Put the film in the developer and agitate continuously for one minute and then let stand for 60 - 90 minutes. Slower films work best. The developer needs to be fairly dilute. 1/2 standard dilution for FX2. I've been experimenting with 1:36 and .5:36 for FX14. Also cut back on your film area by about 1/3. For instance, I use a Combitank and I develop four sheets instead of six. <p> Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xosni Posted April 7, 2001 Author Share Posted April 7, 2001 Distilled water, is it a must? What if i add a pinch of sodium sulfite instead?What films did you try it with? <p> thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_kemner1 Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 Xosni, <p> Distilled water isn't a must if you have good water. I don't so I use distilled. OTOH it IS important that the water be at the ambient room temperature or your results won't be predictable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xosni Posted April 9, 2001 Author Share Posted April 9, 2001 I did it!Techinal Pan in FX-1 1:1 for 50 min @ 29ºC; EI 25Resulats are great (they seem so as I didn't print any yet). normal contrast, high acutance, great tonality. <p> I also tried it with Xtol 1:4 & techinal Pan for 60 min. @ 29ºc. It came out overdeveloped but still promising. I think there is some real spead gain here; we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j._patric_dahl_n Posted April 10, 2001 Share Posted April 10, 2001 Why do you use the stand developing technique? For acutance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathaniel_billups Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Is there any other information on this technique. It sounds interesting and I have a big shipment of Tech Pan coming in for a project coming up that I could try it on. Are these dilutions from the concentrate dilutions or from the normal developer. I have never used FX-1, but you mentioned 1:1 dilution which seems a little harsh from concentrate. Any information will help, thanks. Casey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Nathaniel, here's a fairly recent thread on the subject, including my observations: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006DnU If you do a search you'll find several other discussions. I'm attaching a sample photo, scanned from a negative. The compressed jpeg won't reveal the grain, which is pretty coarse on the negative and prints. One of the advantages is the compensating effect obtained using Rodinal this way. It allows the darker areas to continue developing while minimizing the risk of highlight areas becoming blocked up. That's the theory anyway. Seems to work. I've shot this particular still life many times with many film/developer combinations and stand processing in Rodinal produced some of the better negatives (other than the coarse grain).<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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