B&H Update

[issamikel]

It turns out that even though they sell A&I mailers, when you drop off black and

white film for processing at B&H, they get it developed at Kodak.

 

Does anyone have an opinion on which would be better? The B&H Kodak service is

certainly cheaper, but I have yet to see their work.

[asher]

Actually, I think developing your film yourself in a bathroom is "better", particularly for B&W.

Much cheaper too, in the long run. The few times I've had B&W film developed at a

commercial lab, something goes not quite right.

[issamikel]

I'm looking into this actually. I just have to learn a bit about it before jumping in. Can anyone recommend a good intro book for someone who's never processed at home before?

[mharris]

Issa, jump. You'll be glad you did and it's so easy. Look online for some instructions, you really don't need a book yet. Keep some notes and you'll be off and running. The hardest part is loading the spool. If you get an old Paterson type even that's easy.

[issamikel]

OK, you convinced me. :) I'm actually heading over to B&H in the next day or two anyway and may as well pick up some processing equipment.

 

I looked up some short instructions recently and I gather I need:

 

1) Tank

2) Developer

3) Fixer

4) Spools

 

Please let me know if I'm missing anything. I also plan on getting a changing bag. Would anyone recommend getting an automatic washer? I'm a little hesitant to drop $50 on a machine when I can do it myself, though I've heard it's easy to leave stains from improper washing. There are some cheap washing hose-type contraptions at B&H. Anyone recommend using them?

 

Thanks, all.

[asher]

Issa- keep it simple. You should also get some measurement flasks and a couple of funnels,

as well as some clips to hang the films to dry (put a clip at each end, one to hang and one to

weigh down the end so it doesn't roll up). A thermometer is helpful. A bottle of Photoflo and

some distilled water for the final rinse will eliminate water marks, etc. Get some cotton gloves

as well for handling the dry negs, and archival film holder pages. A solid binder is also good

to hold the pages. All told, you'll make back your investment after about 10-20 rolls.<p>

 

Best place to start, as Michael said is online, then just jump in. Fire off a practice roll that will

be no big deal if you destroy it. You'll be a pro before you know it.

[mtk]

Don't forget stop bath too!

Mark

[jeff_drew4]

Issa, there are several "how-to" books for B&W development. Kodak's B&W Darkroom Dataguides are helpful tools and Ansel Adams book on FILM is excellent.

[steve_levine]

Don't forget a good thermometer!

[a_petkov]

I used to have my b/w film developed in a lab. They did an OK job until one day ruined an important roll of film.

 

Since then, I have been developing B/W myself and the quality is times better, plus you have control over the whole process, much cheaper too.

[roger_smith4]

I'd much rather ruin film myself.

[jordan_w.]

The books by Henry Horenstein and Bernhard Suess are both pretty good.

[hugon]

Definitely the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Black-White-Photography-Third-Revised/dp/0316373052/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/000-3338129-9207977?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1179328534&sr=8-1">Horenstein book</a>.

[ruairidh_e]

Issa,

 

Ilford has an excellent little guide called Processing Your First B&W Film at http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

 

Don't go overboard buying stuff to start. For 35 and 120 film I use:

 

Thermometer

 

Tank that takes two 35mm rolls or one 120 roll (my tank holds 500ml/.5qt of liquid)

 

Two 35mm reels and one 120 reel

 

Can opener to open the canister on 35mm film

 

One beaker that holds 1 liter/1 quart

 

One beaker that holds 150ml/5 ounces

 

Coat hanger to hang the film

 

Four clips, two for each roll of film (one to attach the film to the coat hanger and one to weight the film at the bottom)

 

One eyedropper to add a tiny bit of Photo-Flo to the tank at the end

 

Three plastic soda pop bottles that hold about 750ml/.75qt, one for developer, one for stop bath, one for fixer

 

A watch that shows minutes and seconds

 

Small pair of scissors

 

 

 

For chemicals, you need:

 

Developer (get the liquid stuff to start, such as Ilford DD-X)

 

Stop bath (such as Ilford Ilfostop)

 

Fixer (such as Ilford Rapid Fixer)

 

Photo-Flo (made by Kodak)

 

I happen to use a stainless steel Kinderman tank and Hewes reels, but plastic equivalents made by Patterson are cheaper, they are said to be easier to learn how to use and many people prefer them. The downside is that unlike stainless steel, you can't load plastic when it is wet (or so I have read, I have never used plastic tanks and reels).

 

Developing is a snap and it is cheap. With one caveat. With stainless steel reels, loading the film takes practice. At the beginning, it is a certainty that you will mess up at least a few frames from each roll. This will probably happen for the first five or six rolls until you get the hang of it. Thankfully, once you know how to do it, you will find loading easy. People who use plastic reels tell me that the learning curve is much shorter.

 

Good luck.

[ruairidh_e]

Also, if you are intent on getting a changing bag, consider the Calumet Changing Room: http://www.calumetphoto.com/ctl?ac.ui.pn=search.Search&query=changing+tent&x=15&y=36

 

Learning to load film in a formless changing bag is quite liable to drive you crazy :)

[ruairidh_e]

One further point... The Ilford guide (link above) says to use a squeegee to clear water from the film. That is the one thing in that guide with which I disagree. People have varying views on this, but I find that it actually causes problems. I would suggest that you try omitting this step.

[issamikel]

Thanks to all. This is a lot to go on!

[issamikel]

By the way, I have read about the disagreement over the squeegee. What would you suggest in place of it? Just washing very well in tap water and then hanging to dry?

[ruairidh_e]

I just put the tank in the bathroom sink and run the tap into it. However, I recently had an episode where I got water marks (I think because there was major plumbing work going on in my building), and so at the end I've been filling the tank with distilled water a couple of times, and sloshing it around, just before adding Photo-Flo. In the end, whether you use tap water or distilled water for the whole wash depends on personal preference and how much gunk there is in your water. If your water is a problem, you'll find out soon enough. Photo-Flo should be adequate without using a squeegee, unless of course, you put too much Photo-Flo in the tank, in which case you will also have a problem :)

 

Do yourself a favour and sacrifice a roll of film to practice loading the reels in daylight. Speaking only of stainless steel reels, the trick is to keep the film in the track. It helps to place your thumb on one edge of the film and your forefinger on the other edge and bow the film. If the film goes off the track, you are certain to lose frames from film touching film. The only solution is to unroll the film from the reel to the point where it went off the track and begin again from there. Of course, in the dark, you have to pick up on this problem by feel :)

 

Don't get completely obsessed about temperature and time. The world is not going to end if you are out a degree or a few seconds. The process is just not that precise/scientific. And in any event, it is a good idea to play around with temperature and time to find out how it affects the film. Quite the learning experience.

 

Cheers.

[ruairidh_e]

When you go to B+H, have a look at The Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell and Troop. Well worth buying, even if you don't want to be bothered mixing your own chemicals, for the discussions about how various developers work. B+H has copies of it in the area of the store where they sell darkroom stuff.

[jim_jeblee]

Sometimes when I travel I take a daylight load Jobo tank, measures & quarts of Dev, stop & fixer & a couple clips. I can dev 1-2 rolls at night in the hotel and inspect and page them for when I get home. Some people do not like the daylight load tanks & I do not use them too much at home because I have a darkroom. But what ever you use, practice w/ several rolls of non-important film first. Good luck, Jim.

[david_m]

The biggest problem I found with home processing was liquid temperature control. In winter your solutions will be too cold and in summer too warm. So then you need a way to adjust the temperature up or down to be exactly right. Not easy.