ruicardoso Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Hello All, I've been changing from DDX to Xtol for most of my film development. I'm already set for Tri-X and Maco IR820c but still fighting with PanF+: I decided to start with higher dilutions assuming that I would get more speed and sharpness (no problem here) with this film. I tried the 1:2 and 1:3 dilutions with Xtol, keeping the 100 ml stock solution per rol limit in mind, but it seams that I can't get more than an efective speed of Iso 25 out of this combo. I know this might migth be caused by my metering technique, the subjects I've been shooting, or the fact that I use an orange filter most of the time (I overexpose 2 stops when using the filter), but I used to be able to get ISO 50 with DDX on similar situations (tough I'm not able to test both developers with identical negatives now). For instance in the case of one film I developed using 1:3 dilution (300ml water + 100ml stock at 20 Deg, for 11 minutes, with pre-wash, initial 15 sec agitation, agitation for 10 seconds each minute): The highlights look ok for the shots taken at iso 50 and a litle over for the shots taken at ISO 25, but the shadows look ok for the shots taken at Iso 25 and under for the shots taken at Iso 50. I know this means that shooting at Iso 25 and reducing the time to 10 or maybe 9 minutes I 'll be fine, but before setling with this and mooving on with more testing, could you tell me if this is the speed most of you are getting out of this combo? Also this migth sound strange but I'm wondering if there could be any situations where the higher dilutions of Xtol would not hield the highest speed, any thoughts on this also? Thanks all, -Rui Cardoso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndc Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 I've found that if I'm willing to sacrifice a <i>little</i> latitude, I can get a speed of ASA200 out of Pan F+ in undiluted XTOL. <P> I'm not sure about the higher dilutions, though. I rarely use it at anything beyond 1+1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I tried Pan F+ with a few developers, tho' I don't recall whether Xtol was one of them. The only developer that did better than EI 25 was Diafine, which allowed shooting at 50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I had read your question previously and decided initially to not respond because I thought that perhaps my experiences with PanF+ were a bit unique. Lex's response shows a similar experience to my own. Years back (many!), I had settled into a habit of FG7 for most everything as it was very forgiving and versatile. I could never get better than EI32 from PanF+ in that soup. Since then, I've used many homebrews, commercial developers, pyro-based, Xtol clones and Vitamin C-based, etc. I seem to always end up in the 25-32 range for a true, workable EI. I fight a long toe. I found a forgotten freezer cache of the film in 120 and 35mm bulk (after impulsively buying 2 bulk rolls, besides!) and was going to make it a project to dial in some current favorite developers to the emulsion and make a decision on what served me best. I've had some wonderful results long ago with it but never settled into it as a go-to film, even though it is very capable. If I get at it, I'll post my results (curves, etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_kerwin Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Like others have said, I can only get EI 25-32 with PanF Plus. I use XTOL 1:3 also. I don't have the times in front of me, but my dev time is around 9 min. for EI 25 and 10:30 for EI 32. - Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay_de_fehr Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I shoot Pan F+ @ EI 50 and develop in Hypercat, or 510-Pyro, with excellent results. My method for determining film speed is very simple; I put a roll of film in a camera with a reliable meter, like my Eos Elan IIe, set the ISO to box speed, and shoot. When I develop and print the film, I look at the shadow detail. If it is adequate, I check contrast. If contrast is acceptable, I have my film speed and development time. If either shadow detail or contrast are unacceptable, I adjust film speed, development, or both, and repeat. Since Pan F+ is only available in rollfilm formats, I don't find the more technical methods used for determining film speed/development time necessary for excellent results. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis_oconnor3 Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 The 'speed' of a BW film is dependent upon several variables, including your light meter, your shutter, your lens, filters, the light quality, developer type and dilution, etc... Rarely, if ever, will simply popping it in the camera, setting the dial indicator the the ASA shown on the film box, be the optimum exposure index for you... If shooting at ASA 25 gives you a good negative to print, then that is YOUR asa for that film, in your camera, your light meter, etc... Change to a different shutter or meter and you will likely have to run tests to find YOUR new ASA... denny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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