TechPan Marks

[ed_hurst]

I have just processed my first ever roll of TechPan. I used Technidol at 20°C for 6 minutes. I haven't printed the negs yet, but they look good. Nice level of contrast (good detail in shadows and highlights), and very sharp.

 

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Just one thing. On a couple of frames, there are some very odd objects in the sky. Might be that they make sense when printed, but on the negatives they look like UFOs. Has anyone had this before, and if so, how can it be avoided?

[ed_hurst]

I've also just visited the following site:

 

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http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/p255/p255

.jhtml

 

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This states that the camera should be loaded and unloaded in absolute

darkness. I did not do this, and the negs look alright. Any idea if

this is necessary? If it is, I shall not be using this film.

Loading my Pentax 67ii is hard enough in broad daylight, never mind

in darkness!

[scott_walton2]

TP is very finicky stuff. If you agitate anywhere near what you do for

regular film, you will get some sever bromide drag! With the small

tank, I put the developer in before starting and in the dark, lower the

film reel in gently. I give it a rap and turn it once. 45 sec later, I

turn it once again, 45 sec... and so on.

[dave_mueller]

I've done a few rolls of Techpan (35mm). Loading in the dark is not a

requirement, but avoid direct lighting. I think the base is similar

to HIE infrared and acts like a light pipe. However, Tech Pan has an

anti-halation coating on the back so this effect is minimized. HIE

does not have the coating and any strong light that hits the back

will travel down the inside of the film (you can see this effect with

a strip in an enlarger, the edges of the film glow). Most of the

problems with development is because of the very high contrast nature

of the film. Any screwups will show up as streaks and smears in large

areas like the sky. I've never heard of spots or other small defects

(at least regarding Tech Pan).

[704 studio]

Hi Ed,

 

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Sometimes I get UFO looking objects in the sky if I am exposing the

film directly into the sun - the extreme brightness seems to cause a

flare effect. I don't know if your object is dark on the film, or

light. If it is light, it may be an agitation problem.

 

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Good luck....

 

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James Webb

[gene crumpler]

Crimp marks?

[alec1]

I'm with Gene on this. Tech Pan is a very thin film. Easy to bend,

or, in the right case, crimp. They usually look like half-moons. No

remedy if they're already there, just try and carefully handle the

film next time. I too haven't had a problem loading in the light -

but avoid direct sunlight if you can. Kodak's recommendation is for

the optimal situation, not real life.

[george_papantoniou]

What if they were REAL UFO's ?

[john_hicks___]

> REAL UFO's ?

 

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Well, you'd have to use color film so you could clearly see the blue beam.

[george_papantoniou]

Well, John, the best results I ever had when photographing UFO's were

achived with Kodak HIE and not with colour film, that tends to get

overexposed with the light of the sky... The infrared film (with the

use of the appropriate dark red filter of course) shows a dark sky,

where the image of the UFO is much more clear...

Try it too, you will be fascinated.

[richard_ilomaki]

Ed:

 

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Cold the UFOs be air bells?

 

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In additio to all teh other problems with processing TP, it has

amysterieous affinity for air bubbles to stick on teh film on first

immersion.

 

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Try knocking the tank hard on a wood surfce 10 time as soon as the

dev is poured in.

 

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I had the dev mark problem until I immersed the reel into the

developer with one quick move, put the lid on then tapped it. I

finally gave up on TP and use XP2 and Ilford Pan F. Although not as

fine as TP, for all pratical purposes, they fill the bill for me and

no hassle with the anxiety of spoiled shots.

 

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Cheers

[richard_ilomaki]

Ed:

 

<p>

 

Cold the UFOs be air bells?

 

<p>

 

In additio to all the other problems with processing TP, it has

amysterieous affinity for air bubbles to stick on teh film on first

immersion.

 

<p>

 

Try knocking the tank hard on a wood surfce 10 time as soon as the

dev is poured in.

 

<p>

 

I had the dev mark problem until I immersed the reel into the

developer with one quick move, put the lid on then tapped it. I

finally gave up on TP and use XP2 and Ilford Pan F. Although not as

fine as TP, for all pratical purposes, they fill the bill for me and

no hassle with the anxiety of spoiled shots.

 

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Cheers