Which Leica meter for the Leica M4P?

[oscar1]

Hi!

 

At last, I will know what the Leica experience is! I have bought a

Leica M4P (I am waiting for it to arrive) and now I am thinking

which clip-on meter should I use. I think that the battery powered

meters that go with the M4P are the MR and MR4. Am I right? Which is

the best to get? How do you put it on the camera to avoid scratching

the top?

 

I have red also about the Cosina Voitgl䮤er meters, but some users

report that they have not very convenient controls; i.e. the ISO

dial moves too easily.

 

Well, I need your knowledge to enlighten my doubts. Thanks a lot for

your help!

[Rob F.]

The MR-4. MR-4 isn't an official factory designation, but the one we call MR-4 was redesigned slightly from the original MR, so that the actuating lever would stay clear of the rewind crank on the M4 and subsequent models. A good meter, it will probably require recalibration for use with current 625 alkline batteries--but that's not expensive, and they are worth it.

[peter_white2]

The early version has a switch that extends out to the left and will interfere with the canted rewind crank on the M4P. The later version has a slider switch on top.

 

To keep it from scratching the top plate of the camera, look at the shoe on the bottom. It's held on with three screws. But there are also two much smaller screws which are set screws. When you loosen the three larger screws, you can adjust the tilt of the shoe with the two small set screws. Then tighten down the three larger screws when it aligns the way you want on the camera.

[al_kaplan1]

The only way to keep it from making marks on the camera top is to carry it in your pocket or bag. I've had them, used them, they WILL eventually leave marks. They were dsigned for people who used their cameras, and cameras pick up marks from use.

[SolaresLarrave]

I have one of the MR meters on my M3. Sure, the camera has marks... but that also means it has a history to tell.

 

BTW, the MR meter I have was cleaned and calibrated by George Milton in Quality Light Metrics. It's a very efficient tool, and the only problem it has is that it tends to go dead sometimes (that is, I push the button to take a reading and the needle goes all the way down and doesn't react to any light afterwards). But that ends easily: the meter wakes up when I push the battery-check button. Then it works fine.

[eliot_rosen1]

Having used the combination of MR-4 plus M4-P, I can say that this is the most convenient meter to use, since it directly couples to the shutter speed dial, and you can change the shutter speed and immediately see what the corresponding correct F-stop is. IMO, it is extremely reliable. It is expensive (and only available used, of course, since it hasn't been made for years), but if anything goes wrong, there are many repair people who can fix it. Mne has functioned flawlwssly since I bought it in the 1980s, but I now have an M7, so I don't use it much.

 

The main disadvantage is that it was originally designed to take 1.35 V mercury containing batteries which are no longer made. I still have a few of these batteries, but you can only get them on the "black market" now. There are substitutes available such as the Wein cell or battery converters which make a current 1.5 V battery into 1.35 V. Alternatively, one can have the electronics of the device converted so that a current 1.5 V battery will give the correct reading.

 

It works on a cadmium cell rather than a silicon photocell, which current lightmeters use. However, unlike the older selenim meters, this meter can easily last a lifetime. It is a worthwhile investment. BTW, the MR and "MR-4" were made by Metrawatt in Nuremburg Germany. It is a well-made well engineered product. It gives the approximate angle of view of a 90 mm lens, so to meter you can push the frame preview selector to show the 90 mm frame, and that is what you are metering.

[ronald_moravec1]

I never scratched a top with one. A little tape is one answer. The proper way to install one is set both the camera and meter to B, then push up the shutter dial on the meter and turn it counter clockwise and it will stay raised. Slide into shoe and turn clockwise so the pin engages the notch in the shutter dial.

 

Reverse to remove

[dan flanders]

I have used the MR meters since I got my M2 in the sixties and have had nothing but exemplary experience with them. I still have a black one that has much brassing but that doesn't bother me. I have borrowed one of the VC meters and found it to be an excellent meter but for the life of me cannot imagine any logical reason for clipping onto the camera. It doesn't couple to the camera and all it does is provide another annoying appendage to get in the way of essential operations. Find one of the latter MRs and decide on your battery solustion. As far as marring the top of the camera, that is easily solved by a bit of tape and adjusting the meter's foot. Frankly I consider it a non-issue. Good luck!

[johns1]

Oscar,

 

I use the current model of the CV lightmeter without complaint on my M4-P.

[ben z]

I've got 4 of them, the result of buying six that were marked "inoperative" and being fortunate to coax 4 back to life. At the same time I adjusted the resistors so the meters all read alike from low light to bright light using 1.5 volts. On all of these meters there's a visible gap between the bottom of the meter and the top of the cameras. I didn't adjust the feet on any of them, the only way I can see that I could make marks on the camera tops with them would be to really bear down on the switch end (could possibly happen if I were to hold the shutter wheel away from the camera rather than turn it until it holds by itself)and at the same time pretty much rip the meter off the camera. The underside of these meters is plastic, so I would think it would really take a heavy hand to gouge a chromed top plate. Then again all of my meterless Ms have "meter marks" from their previous owner(s) so perhaps it's easier than I suspect.

[peter_white2]

Ben,

 

I have two MR-4 meters. One reads correctly, and the other is off by almost a stop. How did you make the adjustments?

 

There are two screws inside. Do you know which screw does what?

 

Thanks,

[paul t]

I use the current version of the CV II. With some complaint. On balance, I

prefer it to the Leicameters because it's far less bulky - but the aperture and

shutter speed wheels get dislodged very ofte - an irritation rather than a fatal

flaw; the ISO dial has only become dislodged once. If it does it again I will

superglue it at the speed of Tri X...

[douglas_tourtelot]

I have an MR meter which, of course, fits both my M2 and my M4P. Since it is chrome and my M4P is black. . . .<g>

 

I have NEVER scratched either camera with the meter. I know how to put it on the camera (you don't need to force anything, you know) and one simple piece of Scotch 33 electrical tape and "no worries." It is a very nice meter on the M2.

[ben z]

Peter, it's been a while. IIRC once I got the top plate off there were 2 holes through the circuit board through which I could see the slots for adusting the pots. Those aren't really screws, are we talking about the same thing? Basically what I did was start by removing the battery and zeroing the meter (this worked better than covering the cell with my finger for some reason). Then, comparing to a meter I trusted, I took readings off a white wall with the room lights off (low range) and pointed directly at a 100W bulb from about a foot away (high range). After that I basically fiddled between the 2 pots (very small adjustments) until the meter gave me those readings. The hardest part was I had to keep putting the top cover on and off so I could see which bar the needle was pointing at. Having more than one meter on hand was a plus, otherwise I'd have had to write down which bar it should point to. I never did figure out of one pot was for low range and one for high, or what. I'm sure there's a correct procedure, mine worked but no doubt took longer. You will probably find that you'll have to split the last bit of difference between high and low ends of the scale, because whenever you adjust one the other one is also affected.

[gerald_widen]

I have been using the MR meters for years. They give me good exposures over a broad range of different lighting situations. If you are not careful putting it on and off it can leave bright marks on the top of the camera. But not indentations or scratches. If you are concerned just put a pice of that shiny clear packing tape under where the meter goes.

[peter_white2]

Ben,

 

Yes, you get to the settings through the little holes.

 

I played with the one that's a stop off for ages. It was a frustrating experience. I'll give it another shot over the weekend.

 

The annoying thing is Leica won't tell you what the settings do. They want you to send it in for some ridiculous charge; all for 5 minutes work if you know what the scheme is.

 

Thanks,

[oscar1]

Thanks a lot for you kind replies. You have been very helpful

 

Regards from Barcelona

 

Oscar