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127 Kodacolr-x


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It will work, but you will get a VERY dense negative, as both the permanent orange mask, and the colloidal silver yellow mask, will still be in the negative.

 

Use a developing time that is "longish" for FG-7, since you will need a good bit of contrast to be able to see the silver image over the mask.

 

It just will not be printable on B&W paper, but a decent scanner should be able to get something out of it.

 

Found film just isn't worth Rocky Mountain Film Labs prices.

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I did check out Rocky Mountain and it is about $30 to do a roll of C-22 process. If the pictures were of my family I would consider it. I can use my scanner for the negatives. Twelve minutes of develope time? That is the usual for Tri-X.
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Mybe Andrew works at the C-22 lab :) :) <BR><BR>I heard one could not due this in the late 1950's too. Then we got often free starter rolls of Kodacolor back with B&W developing; to try to get you to use Kodacolor. They I used old D-76; and got the typical orangish base film; with images; abit hard to print; with long times. Here I typically just used the B&W development of Kodacolor for lost old rolls of C22 or C41 found in thrift store cameras. I usually use about 15 percent more development than old Verichrome. What really matters is how much heat and humidity the undeveloped film has seen. After developing many dozens of C22 and c41; the "old cannot be done" comment reminds me of the 1950's grumpy old camera store expert; that said the same thing when IKE was president.<BR><BR>Today using a film scanner; makes recovering images abit easier. Long ago one could use hard grade SIX papers. <BR><BR>The grain is way larger than the normal Kodacolor process; so if they are known valuable images; using a C22 lab might be considered.<BR><BR>Older films were slower; and have less degradation per decade than modern images.
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Ken you can also snip off a 1/4 say of the roll; and just process this portion; to hone in on the development process. Here the undeveloped portion of course can be left in another film tank away from light. The film base will be not clear; but orange. When scanning one should set the levels on the scan software to pull all the info out. Old film can SOMETIMES develop a horrible set; ie curl; be prepared for some neww swear words to be created :); soul searching; or wresling; manhandleing. This curled mess can be a challenge to get on a film spool. 127 is a less common spool size.
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The suggestions have pretty well been covered in the other replies. Develop and fix it in standard developer and fixer or rapid fixer. I'd probably use D-76 because that's what I have already mixed. The negatives will be flat, so over develop if anything, maybe HP5+ times as a guess. They'll be a bitch to print on regular paper. Kodak used to make Panalure just for printing B&W from color negatives.You had to work in the dark or a verrrry dim safelight. Scanning the negatives sounds reasonable. Good luck!
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If you're going to develop color film in D76 b&w developer then you'd might as well just throw it away. You might get some kind of image but not what the film was intended to produce. Spend the $22 at Rocky Mountain and be done with it. You might get some pictures of your family from decades ago that you'll treasure for the rest of your life. If not, it's only $22.
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Craig; Re <I>If you're going to develop color film in D76 b&w developer then you'd might as well just throw it away. </i><BR><BR>Hey Craig; why such the sour grape story? This has been done for 1/2 a century; with alot of success; by thousands of folks. Hell I have developed many dozens of rolls like this. Why such the negativity? <BR><BR>If you say it cannot be done you might as well give up photography. Developing kodacolor in D-76 has been done for 1/2 century; open your eyes abit.<BR><BR>Folks have been developing Kodacolor in D76 from found "junk store cameras" for along time now. It was the feature article in a photo magazine in the 1950's; with tips on using harder papers; longer exposure times required; running trial tests. <BR><BR>
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Here are some images; the only 3 images exposed in a thrift store Canon P&S camera; that cost 98 cents. Canon P&S camera; with 38mm F2.8 lens. The C41 film had a Drug store name from the north east. The only thing wrong with the camera was the two AA batteries were dead. real rocket science repair. The C41 was just placed on a spiral 35mm reel; and developed along with some tri-x I was developing; in d-76. <BR><BR>folks are making this process seem real difficult. Here 3 out of 3 images exposed had something scanable. There are some light leak sprocket marks on a couple frames; the tell tale window foam might have leaked. <BR><BR>Here are the lost Porsche Boxster folks; found in a 98 cent thrift store camera; C41 developed in D76; scanned with an Epson flatbed. <BR><BR>Here I have been doing this d76ing of kodacolor since IKE was in office; and are not going to waste money with a unknown roll; at an expensive lab for C22; or regular lab for c41.<BR><BR>If a KNOWN family roll; spend the bucks and get C22 or C41; if an unknown roll; is it worth wasting money on?<BR><BR><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/color%20neg%20dev%20BW/tripods-339.jpg"><BR><BR><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/color%20neg%20dev%20BW/tripods-340.jpg">,BR><BR><img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y148/ektar/color%20neg%20dev%20BW/tripods-341.jpg">
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I'll take the 127 spool if you don't need it! I look at junk 127 cameras just to get the spools.

 

EFKE 127 spools dion't work wel in a Rollei 4x4. I use metal 127 for take up spools and it woks much better. Th EFKE 127 spools are just a bit too wide for the takeup chamber in the Rolleiflex 4x4.

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