Film Washers Recommendation for Home Processing

[flying_tiger]

I'd like to start processing films at home and I need to get a film

washers for both 35mm and 120 format reel size (may want to wash

2x120format reels of film at the same time).

 

What film washer do you recommend? Can I make a film washer myself

using an empty plastic water bottle (1 qt size)?

 

Thanks.

[mike_grigsby]

I made my own, but you can buy them too. Mine is a plastic tube that connects on one end to the faucet and the other to a nipple in the bottom of my cylinder. I pump water from the bottom and it simply overflows out the top. Whatever you do, you want to cause the water to flow rather than just pool in your tank.

[conrad_hoffman]

I have a plastic hose attached to my mixing faucet. Regardless of format, I put the hose in the center of the reels, down near the bottom and wash with a low flow. Every now and then I pull it out and spray the top of the reels to dislodge bubbles. I can't imagine why anyone would buy or make a dedicated film washer.

[trooper]

One design that was popular many years back used a PVC pipe of the length you desired for reel capacity, capped on the bottom end with a flanged cover. This made the tube very stable. There was a specific number of a certain sized holes drilled around the perimeter of the bottom that created what was considered a proper water flow when your water entering from the open top remained at a consistent level (maybe someone has the old data on this).

 

In the FWIW dept: For many years now, I've been using the soak and dump exchange method that seems to be the common method in the UK and other parts of Europe where water conservancy is on peoples' minds. I've had no problems at all with this. I end the wash with one fill of distilled water, a bit of alchohol and 2 drops/250ml Agepon. My negatives just don't have any spotting or residue with this simple method.

[ronald_moravec1]

Follow Ilford`s instructions for rapid archival wash. Imerse 10 times, change water, imerse 10 times, change water, imerse 20 times.

 

My variation is fill the tank 2/3 with water and invert 10,10,10,10 with appropiate water changes. Been doing it for years and you may fill a container with proper temp water for four changes and you will not have to worry about temp control either.

[john_finch]

I agree with Ronald and others. The Ilford method of film washing is well proven and very simple.

 

1. Fill the tank with clean water at correct temperature. Agitate 5 times leave to soak for 5 minutes

2. Fill the tank with clean water at correct temperature. Agitate 10 times leave to soak for 5 minutes

3. Fill the tank with clean water at correct temperature. Agitate 20 times leave to soak for 5 minutes

 

Empty and soak in clean water with a couple of drops of Ilfotol, LFN or (my preferance) Agfa Sistan. Leave for two minutes (important) and take straight out to dry in a dust free atmosphere. Do not wipe the film.

 

That should give you perfectly washed negatives.. :)

 

John

pictorialplanet.com

[flying_tiger]

Thank you for your advice. I very much appreciate your help.

BTW, I think Ilfotol and Photo-flo by Kodak are both wetting agent. How about Agfa Sistan? Is it the same? If not, what's it for?

 

Richard

[ole_tjugen]

Agfa Sistan is a "stabilizer", which extends the arcival life of the film. It is reputed to be very good.

 

Depending on your water supply you may or may not benefit from foto-flo or similar. I have very soft and slightly acidic water, and get even less drying stains without it than with.

[john_finch]

Ole is spot on.. Agfa Sistan is a stabalizer for improving archival permanence but it also has a wetting agent to stop water marks on the negatives after drying. I use it as an added insurance against deterioration as well as to aid drying.

 

John

Pictorialplanet.com

[masabu_aida]

It just popped up to my mind, how about using a aquarium filter such as EHEIM?

You can throw in developed film (35/120) and then you can recycle the water in tank or sink?

 

It seems you can save a lots of water, while using electricity, I am not sure which is more environmentally friendly or economically friendly, in some part of the world, water is cheap, on the other hand, water could be more expensive than electricity needed to run EHEIM filter, you can obtain these very robust pumps at decent price at ebay?c What do you think?

 

-Masabu

[chris_waller]

Ditto the above, I'd suggest you use the Ilford washing method. It is quick, efficient and uses a minimum of water.

[john_cook1]

The best film washer I have ever seen is the Wat-Air by Watson. The water flow is very even, washing all areas of the film equally. It contains a Venturi Valve which creates zillions of tiny bubbles which scrub the film and prevent scum and foam from forming. I have used the same one since the 1960's. And the price is right.

 

Here is the Watson page on B&H's website:

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=search&Q=&b=479&shs=&ci=764&ac=&Submit.x=11&Submit.y=6

[trooper]

I had responded to the initial question already but I'll second John's endorsement of the Wat-Air. Mine's been in use from the 1960's too and when I'm in a rush to force some film through the darkroom, the Wat-Air comes out. I never figured out an easy way to soak some wetting agent and alcohol at the end of the wash in it so I just have the distilled water and all in the film tank that's been rinsed thoroughly while the washer is running and return the reels to the tank for that last step. Is there an easy work-around for this that I've not thought of?

[scott_walton2]

You can use the same tanks you develop in and by using Permawash, a chemical used to reduce wash times (and thoroughly get your film fixer free), and by using your tank and running water, your wash times will be greatly reduced... and archivally clean!