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What can a Speed Graphic NOT do?


paul_mcevoy

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Hi there,

 

I'm looking to get a large format camera sometime in the next couple

months. I'm still not totally sure about movements and what they are

for, but I'm aware that Graphlex cameras are limited. I'm interested

in what they can't do. What situations would you be in where you

would not be able to get what you wanted.

 

I'm interested in doing documentary photography in large format...my

inspiration is Yangtzee Remembered by Linda Butler. I like how she

mixes landscapes, detail shots and portraits to tell a story (a sad

one). I know that she carried a small digital camera with her and a

Mamiya 7.

 

Anyway, if I had to say what kind of pictures I would like to take

with a large format camera, I would say pictures like these:

http://www.lindabutlerphoto.com/sampleimages.html Which of those

could I not do with a Speed Graphic?

 

Thanks!

Paul

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There is vertually nothing that a Speed Graphic can't do. The AP photographer took 3 shots of the Hindenburg between the time it caught fire and the time it hit the ground.

 

More movements just allow you to do some things better, however if you are considering hand holding more movements would probably be useless.

 

Order and read one of these books cover to cover first:

 

Graphic Graflex Photography

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0871000180/qid=1118780288/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/002-7327620-4872869?v=glance&s=books

 

Go live on Graflex.org

 

Go to http://largeformatphotography.info/

 

You probably don't want a Speed but a Crown

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I would consider a more modern lens than the Optars & Ektars that are usally found with the Speed Graphic. I love the 135mm Optar but I use it on a 6x9 view. A Nikkor, Schneider, or Rodenstock 135mm or 150mm would work nicely. Ditto the sugestion for a Crown.
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They have limited movements compared to a rail camera. They dont have any rear movements at all unless you count tilting the entire camera. Cant extend over something like 12" ?? I think. The back does not rotate, thats about it that i can think of.

 

What it can do is, fold up, range find focus, use barrel lenses and for shots like this.

 

http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/text-slit-scan.html

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Speed Graphics have problems with short lenses. The 4x5 Pacemaker Speed's minimum flange-to-film distance is 2 5/8". This can be limiting, so if you want to shoot wide a 4x5 Crown, minimum flange-to-film distance 2 1/6", might be a better choice.

 

If you don't need a Graflok back -- used for attaching roll holders and Grafmatic sheet film holders -- then there are other relatively inexpensive 4x5 Press Cameras with more movements. And there are more expensive new "technical" cameras that offer more movements.

 

Since you know so little, go over to www.viewcamera.com and look at their beginner's guide to LF. And you might buy a good book, for example Steve Simmons'.

 

You have fixed on one of many solutions to the problem you want to solve, should investigate others before buying anything.

 

Good luck, have fun

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Very little! Dan and the others have given you excellent advice. Most folks fault the camera for lack of movements. Very limited in the front standard and none in the back. Does this matter? Only if you want to get involved with corrective photography. Then most will reach for a view camera, although some field and press cameras have some if not all the same movements.

 

The Crown weighs a lot less because there is no focal plane shutter. I have a top rangefinder Crown and it is my 4x5 "Freedom" camera.

Paul

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They do NOT wear out very fast. I've used my Crown Graphic in the field for 20 years and it's still a workforce.

 

Where I run into limitations is:

 

a) close up images with a normal lens. There's just so much bellows.

 

b) using my "nice" view camera in the studio, I miss the rotating back. Instead you have to either remount the camera on the tripod for the thread on the bottom or left side, or have a strong enough tripod to be able to tilt the entire camera.

 

c) not as much travel in the ground glass to put in a thick film holder (like a roll film holder).

 

d) more finicky focus control (there's only so much focus, so you have to get good at calculating how much bellows extension to initially use)

 

e) not much in the way of movement for architectural shots. There is no rear "standard" movement.

 

But those things aside, I wouldn't sell my Crown Graphic for any price.

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My Super Speed Graphic has a back that rotates (very handy) and complete front movements (swing, tilt, rise, shift). So, short of back movements there is little it can't do for most lenses in the 90mm to 240mm range. A total workhorse, just a little rough around the edges. And the Ektar 127mm lens that came with it is quite good for the price, though arguably not up to more modern (and expensive) lenses when it comes to flare or edge sharpness. A great way to get started in LF.
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Hi Paul,

 

I am a TOTAL beginner in LF myself, so am in no way an authority. However, I decided to

pick up a Speed with lens (Raptar 135), and 8 film holders for $200. That's equal to a

couple of days renting a new kit. If I find that I need more, I can always sell the Speed and

upgrade. However, right now, I can't see myself parting with this old beast. Mine's a pre-

anniversary, spring back (also read: as basic and old-styled as you can get with no frills).

Lovin' it so far!

 

Reed

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Alan, Tachiharas are delivered, um, stark naked. If you want to see a Speed's true beauty, take its clothes off and polish the wood. Yes, remove the leather or leatherette or leather cloth or whatever that dingy black veil is called. You don't need it anyway.

 

Eric, you are a bad, bad influence. I've tried shorter enlarging lenses than 135mm, and even a couple of decent but older 135 plasmat types, at distance on my 2x3 Speed and haven't liked the results. And now here you are insinuating that I should try El Nikkors. Go away! Stop planting these evil ideas!

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Speed Graphics rock! Get one with a decently accurate focal plane shutter so you can use barrel lenses as well as modern lenses. My favorite lens on the SG is a 241mm Goerz Berlin Dagor -- beautiful tonal quality and 3-D feel. SG can't do everything, but darn close.
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On occasion I want to take pictures where I need a long telephoto lens to bring in far objects. This typically happens when I'm at a nature preserve looking at birds, wild horses etc. Then I use maybe a 500mm lens on my 35mm Pentax, plus a 2x or 3x Tele-extender; 1500mm. The equivalent of a 1500mm lens on a 35mm would be a 4500 mm (180") on a 4x5. My Speed Graphic will only take a 15" lens (375mm), although I do have a 20" B&L Tele (505mm actually) that I use on it with a custom-made extension tube, using the focal plane shutter. Thus, with the Speed Graphic I come up a factor of 9x short of what I can do with my 35mm kit. In the Graflex SLR's they used to use up to 40" lenses (the "Big Bertha" setups for sports photography), but that's still a factor of 4.5 down from what I can achieve with my 35mm. Any you needed a truck to move the Big Bertha (actually a cart).

 

I use my Speed Graphic or Super Graphic much more than my 35mm Pentax, but for truly long tele lenses a 35mm excells.

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<I>Eric, you are a bad, bad influence. I've tried shorter enlarging lenses than 135mm, and even a couple of decent but older 135 plasmat types, at distance on my 2x3 Speed and haven't liked the results. And now here you are insinuating that I should try El Nikkors. Go away! Stop planting these evil ideas!</I><P>

Hmmm. I don't suppose my 50mm El Nikkor will cover 4x5, will it? At least not at infinity, darn.

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My Schneider 90mm enlarging lens almost covers the 4x5 neg. Easily cropped. The 11x14 print made of the photo above is one of the sharpest prints I have ever made! Tack sharp right from the foreground to infinity.

 

My next experiment is to stick my Schneider 150 enlarging lens on my Speed.

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