underexpose ilford pan 100

[daniel_baharal]

hi all of you,

my question now is if I underexpose by half stop would that give a richer warm tones and should I develop normally. Thanks in advance.

[marc_leest1]

Underexposing will block the shadows. If you like to experiment

OVEREXPOSE in steps of 1/2. Print the one you like.

[pete_andrews]

Warm tones on the negative? Huh?<br>The warmth or coolness of tone in

the print is totally unaffected by the exposure of the negative.

[daniel_baharal]

hi Mark,

 

<p>

 

but what happens on a bright sunny day? when there is more shadows on

one side and it is too white on other parts?

[nigel_smith2]

are you mixing Print development with neg exposure? Print with

suitable paper/developer or tone for 'warm' prints. Expose for

shadows and develop highlights.

[daniel_baharal]

"Expose for shadows and develop highlights."

 

<p>

 

what do you mean to develop highlights?

[nigel_smith2]

"expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" slight typo!

<P>

what this means is exposure controls shadow detail (you exposure will

govern whether you capture details in shadow areas) and development

controls contrast of the highlights, or dense areas on the negative

(not enough development and you won't get seperation in those

highlights) <P>Someone else will be able to expain this better :)

[marc_leest1]

quote:

but what happens on a bright sunny day? when there is more shadows on

one side and it is too white on other parts?

/quote;

 

<p>

 

 

Expose for the shadows - what not is recorded on a negative cannot be

printed. - The situation you give is a clear example -

Develop for the highlight. In a contrasty scene as you describe you

must reduce contrast. This is done by reducing development about 15%.

 

<p>

 

So: expose 1/2 to 1 stop over but reduce development with 15%.

For warmtone prints use Ilford Multigrade Warmtone developed in Agfa

Neutol WA. Good luck.

[daniel_baharal]

Thanks Marc and Nigel. I think i got it.