Development of orthochromatic film shot in camera (pinhole) for Pt/Pd printing

[adrienne_wicks]

Hello,

 

I've been shooting Bergger BPF 200 in my pinhole cameras, processing

with PMK and printing platinum/palladium. I recently built a 4x10

(I'd been shooting 8x10) to try out that ratio before building much

bigger. I called Bostick & Sullivan to order the film - long story

short, it's not availabe, won't be for a while, and I ended up

taking a box of their orthochromatic film to cut down to 4x10.

(Don't ask me why I didn't just go for another brand.)

 

Cutting it is no problem. I'm hoping to get advice on processing

though. Dektol 1:10 was recommended as a starting point. I tried

it and it worked okay (though I think I had some air bubble issues

and contrast seems low), but I have read that the BPFB 18 can be

developed in a range of developers. Has anyone worked with this

film for similar purposes? Any suggestions? I tray process. If I

increase time in Dektol will that highten contrast? Should it be

rinsed before processing to avoid air bubbles?

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

Adrienne

[peter_schrager]

Adrienne-use HC-110 instead. You will get better faster results and less worry about repeatability. I use the MacoGeniusFilm but these all work the same.Enlarger Ht. set for proofing. F11/16 try around 15sec. exposure. I change the dilution to get the result I want(1;3for positives dev. around 1 minute and 1:79 for the negatives with HC110) and you also expose longer or shorter.Remember:Positives ARE SOFTER WITH FULL SEPARATION IN HIGHLIGHTS;Negatives are HIGHER IN CONTRAST WITH GOOD SHADOW SEPARATION.Just do it a few times and you will get the hang of it. Peter

[peter_schrager]

Adrienne -I think I missed your post completely all the time thinking you wanted to make enlarged negatives. SORRY.......

[peter_schrager]

Adrienne-if you go to the Ilford Web Site they should have a PDF file on the Orthochromatic film they make along with somes developing curves. HC-110 is still very good for building density. Peter

[enrico__]

ADRIENNE, go to the Ilford website as mentioned by Peter. You will find a range of times and developers wth indicative ISO's, for diverse applications.

 

PETER, you mentioned using HC110. are your dilutions direct from syrup concentrate, or are they diluted from a stock solution???

[peter_schrager]

Enrico-I always use Hc110 from the syrup. It's just easier that way and it lasts forever/long long time. Peter

[jay_de_fehr]

Adrienne,

 

I recommend the following:

 

Rapid Universal

 

water 750ml

 

Sodium sulfite 36g

 

hydroquinone 3.6g

 

sodium carbonate 20g

 

borax 10g

 

phenidone .1g

 

ascorbic acid 3.6g

 

*BZT 1% 10ml

 

water to 1 liter

 

*1g KBR can be used in place of BZT

 

I use this developer for both film and paper, which is why I call it Universal, and it develops BPF200 in about 60 seconds undiluted, which is why I call it Rapid. I assume you'll be developing your Ortho film under a safelight, so finding the dilution you need for the development time you want will be a simple matter. I recommend the 1:10 dilution to start with, but you can use this developer undiluted, or diluted up to 1:20. I use this developer for prints, so it sees a lot of open tray use, and does not oxidise appreciably. One characteristic you're sure to appreciate as a platinum printer is the complete absence of fog. This developer produces extremely sharp, brilliant negatives, with very fine grain, and is very economical to use. If you don't have access to a scale for compounding developers, email me and I'll send you the chemicals pre-measured for a few liters, or John at Artcraft Chemicals will make the kit up for you if you give him the formula. This developer will keep for at least 6mos. in a full, tightly capped bottle, or at least 2mos in a partially full container. Good luck.

 

Jay

[adrienne_wicks]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I think I'm going to give Jay's Rapid Universal a try, sounds like it may make a good Pt/Pd negative.