Using D-76 with Ilford stop and fixer - any problems?

[richard_f1]

Hi everyone,

 

I am processing T-Max 400 (and 100 rated at 400) in a 2 reel tank (not at the same time).

 

All I could get was D-76 and Ilford Developer, Stop and Fixer. At the moment of purchase I

thought that I should use D-76 as it was Kodak film, but that stop and fixer should be

"much of a muchness" (especially the stop bath).

 

Instinct and (limited) experience tells me that this should be more or less ok, no?

 

Does anyone know of any major problems that I should expect?

 

I am not a super-perfectionist, I just want to develop my negatives adequately. I don't have

the option to get other chemicals at the moment, and I don't really

want to go back and buy the Ilford developer.

 

Grateful for any responses.

[frank.schifano]

Brand doesn't matter when it comes to stop bath and fixer. It doesn't even matter much with developers either. Almost all developers are variations on Metol/Hydroquinon, Phenidone/Hydroquinone, Sodium Ascorbate/Phenidone themes. There are a few exceptions, the amidol, pyro and catechol developers come to mind; but these are not nearly as commonly used.

[john_shriver]

No problems whatsoever. Stop is stop, just a mild acid. Any rapid fixer will do, and that's all that Ilford offers in fixer. (Don't use a powdered fixer with T-MAX, it can barely fix it.)

 

To get good results with T-MAX film, you have to have very consistent processing. So use the D-76 one-shot, don't reuse it. You will need to find your own ideal exposure index and developing time for these films. They are the most sensitive films out there to small changes in developing time and temperature.

[ronald_moravec1]

They work fine together.

 

D76 needs to be stored in small full bottles, preferably glass, with tight fitting lids. If exposed to air in a partally full bottle, it rapidly becomes more active and then less active than originally made. These changes are unpredictable.

 

Use one small bottle for each film and throw it out: do not reuse it.

[nealcurrie]

As has been stated, no problems mixing brands of chemistry.

 

You'll reduce the contamination of your fixer if you rinse your film between stop and fixer. Do NOT rinse between developer and stop.

 

If I'm reading correctly, you're using T-Max 100 at 400? If so, you'll be much better off just using T-Max 400 at 400. T-Max gets grumpy when it's pushed, and in contrasty light you'll have a complete lack of shadow detail.

 

I've been reasonably happy with T-Max rated at 80 and used in D76 1:1 at 20degrees for 10 minutes with 30 second agitations.

[richard_f1]

Hey everyone, thank you very much for the replies - very helpful!

 

I had some 100 speed but I normally prefer 400, at the time I just thought "oh well I'll try it

at 400". Sounds like not the best idea - we shall see how it turns out!

 

Thanks again everyone, I appreciate the help.

R