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Orthochromatic Film


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Ortho is sensitive to blue and green light, but not to red.

 

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Most panchromatic films are less sensitive to green light than the

eye, and my hope is to get foliage that is rendered about as the eye

sees it, instead of dead, dark, grays.

 

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Also, I'm interested in tray development of 8x10's with a safelight.

 

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For portraits, ortho supposedly adds "character" to mens' skin. The

pink and red coloration goes dark.

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Hello Charlie,

 

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I've used Kodak Ortho Lith 35mm last weekend, E.I. around 12,

developed in Rodinal 1:100, about 10 min at 200C. Used without filter

the sky is almost blown out, so 1:150/1:200 or PMK could be useful.

Apart from that landscapes look similar to panchromatic, e.g. trees do

not look any lighter than normal, at least to me. Resolution of the

film is good like all slow copying film.

 

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Sorry, can not comment of portrait yet and not the next two week, as I

did forget to put some Ortho Film in cartridge for holiday, and I'm

leaving in 90 min straight from my office to the train station.

 

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Kind regards,

 

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Wolfram

 

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p.s. Thomas, Rodinal seems to work, while C 41 developer gave neither

with TP nor with Kodak Ortho Lith good results.

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Have you tried Efke KB25/R25 or KB50/R50? They are orthopanchromatic

films and have a very fine grain. They are very well suited for

landscapes and portraits and darkens red and lightens blue and green,

but gives a more correct greyscale than the plain ortho films. They

can be developed in D-76, Neofin Blue, Rodinal and Acutol/Aculux 2

with very fine results.

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In response to Bill, I have tried a 44b filter, and it does work.

OTOH, it costs two or three stops and is available only as a fairly

expensive and fragile wratten gel, so when mine died from

environmental stress, I switched to the new Ilford ortho+ film.

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