Neopan : Emofin : shadow detail / harsh daylight?

[jtk]

Neofin 400 or TriX / Emofin is a remarkably fine grain, 800-1600ei

combo... my favorite for low light.

 

I'd like to use the same film and developer to keep detail in black

shadows and brilliant, glaring concrete or desert scenes.

 

... have you worked out ei ratings and development times to open up

shadows and hang onto highlights in harsh daylight lighting?

 

Would 250ei and 5:5 do the deed and scan/print prettily? ( 6min:6min @

25c (tap water temp..ie 25% warmer than recommended 20c) is perfect at

800-1600 ).

 

I'd rather not waste Neopan and Emofin on initial pure testing if

somebody can start me in the right direction ... :-)

 

Djon

[jtk]

...I meant to ask about a slower rating (eg 250ei) and " x " time (perhaps 5:5 Vs the 6:6 Tetenal @ Fuji recommend at 20C ? )

 

..ignore my temp variable, just think about 20c to reduce confusion :-)

 

Thanks!

[avisualemotion]

John

<br><br>

I exposed Neopan 400 @ 1600 use it in day light on sharp winter sunny day. It looks great, take a look here:

<br>

<ul>

<li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-28/">first</a></li>

<li><a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-32/">second</a></li>

</ul>

<br>

I develop it exactly as it is described at Emofin package for 30sec agitation.<br>

You mentioned you use it for night/low light shots can you tell me how do you develop this combination and what your results looks like?

<br>

---<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

[bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa]

The highlights look a little gray.

[chris_waller]

Try downrating to 160 ASA (i.e. 1 1/3 stops down) and reduce devlopment by about 45 percent, e.g. if development time at 400 ASA were 10 minutes, then reduce to 5.5 minutes.

[jtk]

Richard, your bright lighting and my bright lighting may be very different (I'm a mile+ altitude...200M!) :-)

 

Your snow looks softly lit by comparison to mine ...

 

I use 6:6 (plus tank empty time, "stopping" with water) @ 25c (convenient, since my tap water is usually that temp and my house is kept at that temp) I get a good/perfect 800 and a very usable 1600 from Neopan 400...ie -1 and -2. I simply agitate 3 inversions (Nikkor tank) every minute.

 

Most Neopan 400 /Emofin images I've seen online seem to have been low light...eg stage performances where they don't mind losing background detail. I want to use this combo differently.

 

A relatively fast rating, such as 250 with the right development time might keep good shadow detail.

 

Richard, I like your photographs of details a great deal. I also like your online tones! It does appear that you sacrifice shadow detail in exchange for other beauty...though that may be an online artifact.

 

After I do some testing for deep shadows I'll post results along with my idea of "normal" Neopan/Emofin 800...hopefully later this week.

 

Djon

[jtk]

Chris, have you done this? In what kind of lighting? Brilliant outdoor lighting?

[jtk]

...and Richard, I meant two thousand meters, not "200"...

[avisualemotion]

John,

<br><br>

Looking at jpg is one thing looking at print here is another. Well pity you can't come over, but you have to try it anyway. I mean use film as you wish and see, you need to do it anyway your water is surely different than mine and your hand agitates differently than mine and our taste is also different I guess :-)

<br>

I only wanted to show you what is my results and for pushing Neopan by 2 stops I am happy with result. I would be really interesting to see some decent low light shots with Neopan 400@1600 with Emofin. <br>

One thing I do not like on Emofin is terribly reactive. What I mean if I drop it on floor I immediately made mark there same on table. It never happen to me with Xtol or Aculux2 which I am using for years.<br>

<br>

---<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://www.piskoftak.com/">www.piskoftak.com</a>

[jtk]

Richard, I'll make a point of shooting a roll at 1600 this week, will try to post something from it next week. I've previously had trouble posting on photo.net but I need to master that.