enrique_munoz1 Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Would you say that you gain a stop in hand holding a 21 wrt a 28 wrt a 35 (on an M). This is subjective I know, but I am thinking at the moment that the ultimate low light lens for interiors is probably the 28 summicron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frederick_muller Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 I'd say the ultimate low-light lens for interiors is one I want and can't find: the Canon FD 24mm f1.4 Aspherical, which I'd love to have for my F-1's and even adapt to my M's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awahlster Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Fredrick, While the 24mm f1.4 is an excellent option if you have to have that last stop of light the 24mm f2.0 nFD is at all apertures a better lens. We on the Yahoo Canon Fd group have done some rather extensive testing of the three Canon Fd moun 24mm lenses and when combined with those historical tests done by others over the years the best 24mm in Canon Fd mount is the F2.0 version. If you as serious about a 24mm f1.4L Kevin Cameras has one in inventory at $1050.00 about $800.00 more then the better f2.0 lens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben z Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Enrique, it's true that a shorter focal length is less apt to show the effects of camera shake than a longer one, but if what you need is a 50mm angle and you have to crop and enlarge that 28mm shot to get it, you're going to see not only the camera shake that wasn't evident in the wider shot, but you're also going to see increased grain. This is just my experience but I prefer to use the lens I need to get the composition I want, and do my utmost to reduce camera shake. As you mention interiors, I've yet to find a situation where I couldn't lean or brace myself against something solid other than out in the wilds. Even on a city street there's buildings, benches, cars, sign and lamp posts everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Maybe the best answer lies somewhere in the middle. If you really need a 50, then a 24 is probably not the answer. But you can quite likely get the job done with a 35 instead of the 50, and take advantage of the modest gain in hand-holding ability. Maybe you could move in a little tighter on the subject, or maybe include a little more environment around the main subject, and still get the job done. The 35mm f/1.2 CV lens could then be an alternative to the 50 Lux, maybe even the 50 Noct, for example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pensacolaphoto Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Mark: How did the 24/2.8 do relative to the 24/2 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awahlster Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Raid the best test done by one of the guys on the Canon FD group is here: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/starka/24mm/home.htm But basically the 24mm f2.0 was the best followed by the 24mm f2.8 and then the 24mm f1.4L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frederick_muller Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 Thanks Mark ... your observations on the 24mm f1.4 are very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattalofs Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 "Would you say that you gain a stop in hand holding a 21 wrt a 28 wrt a 35 (on an M)". Yes, but at some point the limiting factor ceases to be your ability to handhold the camera. I've found that subject movement as opposed to handshake really comes into play when you start dropping below 1/8th of a second particularly if the shot is not a posed one. If people know to stay still, things might be different. Some of this also depends on the size of the interiors. In an apartment a 35 or 28 might make a lot of sense, but in a McMansion a 50 or even a 90 can be necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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