I need advice on a fast film with bright colors!

[kyle_opitz]

Lately I�ve been shooting fast action in dark woods and a need a good 800 speed

color film for scans and enlargements. I normally shoot with a warming

polerizer and a split ND filter, as well as an off camera flash. I�ve been

trying to use a lower ISO film so I can get bright vibrant colors, but the dirt

always turns out gray, and the greens always come out muddy and underexposed. I

figured the problem was that I was underexposing, so I decided to go with 400

speed Kodak MAX film and the results were terrible; muddy colors, horrible

grain, the usual. I even tried a roll of Kodak Portra 160VC, cause someone at

the local pro shop talked me into how great the color would be, even though I

had a feeling that it was the wrong film for the job, and I was right, it was

the worst yet! I have been shooting at my max aperture of 2.8 to get all the

light I can, but would like a little more depth of field an 800 ISO film would

offer.

 

This year I began to shoot various Fuji films for all kinds of situations and so

far I have been very impressed. I wanted to give the Fuji Press 800 film a try,

but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions / tips / problems / or

alternate film choices? I�m looking for a 35mm film with bright vibrant colors

that scans well. Also, can someone explain what is meant when people say a film

has better contrast? Or more contrast? Or less contrast? (Press vs NPZ)

 

Any info is greatly appreciated!<div></div>

[phil_jarrett]

Hi,

After reading your post I thought I'd share some experience with you. Earlier this year I did a big colour print project and tested out a huge amount of different films. I have come to the conclusion that all Kodak film, bar perhaps Portra 160 NC, is dreadful. With every test I did, Fuji came out top trumps in terms of exposure latitude and colour saturation (or lack of it where necessary).

 

I'd certainly give 800Z a try, as well as press. If you've got a problem with underexposure / muddy colours, I think you need just a little more light. Perhaps you should invest or borrow a more powerful slave flash head? If you're doing action shots like the one you've posted you need that shutter speed, so light and aperture are the only real variables you can adjust - unless you get some 1600 speed film, which is pretty good these days, but still very grainy. Try Fuji Superia 1600. Sadly, those boffins at Fuji have yet to produce a Pro 1600 film, but I'm sure if they ever get round to it, it will be a cracking film for low light work.

[phil_jarrett]

Me again... if you're shooting at f2.8 on 400, then a 800 speed film will only allow you to stop down by a single stop to f4. - still not great for depth of field. I'd definitely give a 1600 speed film a try, see if you like it.

[alan_chan4]

Fujifilm <a href="http://fujifilm.jp/personal/film/color/35mm/index.html">Natura 1600</a>, said to be wonderful and much better than the original 1600. But you have to fly to Japan first. There are some online sources too, but certainly not cheap.

[larrydressler]

If you can find any left Agfa Vista 800 is/was great and saturated with 400 speed grain. but yes at f4 you will gain about a foot of DOF<div></div>

[larrydressler]

Also what lens are you using? If you can get closer to your subject a 35mm or 28mm lens may be what you need over a normal lens.

 

Larry

[neal_wydra1]

Dear Kyle,

 

Check this out: http://www.naturephotographers.net/gs/gsbb.html

[ben_kriete]

You're probably losing a stop or two with the warming polarizer. You might try losing that.

[larrydressler]

And why the filters in the deep shade? 2 stops at least of lost light. if anything from the posted picture you need reduced green on my monitor and that is not too bad. Try the lens strait up with some good old Ultra 400. but if you can find it believe me the 800 film from Italy is not bad..

 

Larry

[kyle_opitz]

This picture was shot with a Minolta X700 set on Aperture Priority with a 28mm lens(DOF). The sync speed on the X700 is only 1/60 of a second, so I usually always get some kind of blur. I have a Minolta 360PX auto flash on the auto setting that matches up with the aperture being used, set at � power 10 feet from subject. I thank everyone for their advice. I think I�ll lose the warming polerizer and slap on my trust 50mm f1.7 and get a little closer to my subject. As for the film, I tried a 120 roll of Kodak 100UC for another situation and the results were great. I hear a lot of buzz about the 400UC and since I am from Rochester, NY (and I happen to have a roll in my freezer) I�ll give the Kodak a try. Other then that, I think I�ll order some Fujicolor Superia 400, Fuji Press 400, maybe some NPZ, and give them all a try. Maybe even try some 400 speed slide film?? I usually order from B&H, what about everyone else? Thanks again.

[Aoresteen]

Kyle,

 

No need to try all those films.

 

Pick any 800 speed film. Go to Wal-Mart and get a 4 pack of Fuji or Kodak. It doesn't matter. Load the first roll. Go out with your 50mm lens (no filters except maybe a Skylight) and set the meter to 100. Take 3 pictures. Now set the meter to 200. Take 3 pictures. Now set the meter to 400. Take 3 pictures. Set the meter to 800. Take 3 pictures. Set the meter to 1600. Take 3 pictures. Stop, and rewind the film. Take the exposed film to your normal lab and have it processed and printed, one print each.

 

When you get them back lay them out on a large table with the EI 100 prints on the top. Put the 200 EI prints in a row below them, ditto for the rest.

 

You will find one set that looks great but the next lower set is blah. You have found the correct ei for your camera with the 800 film. Let's assume that it was the 400 EI prints that looks the best. Set you camera to 400 and shoot the rest of the film. What ever film you use I'm sure you will find the sweet spot and then stick to ONE film for awhile.

 

Try this simple test, it will save you a lot of wasted effort and money.

[kyle_opitz]

That sounds like a great way to test a film, but what is meant by EI ? Should I find the correct exposure manually, or shoot in Program or Aperture Priority mode? I think I will use Aperture Priority mode to shoot the same scene 4 times, once at 100/200/400/800/1600, then move to another scene and do the same thing. The light tends to change a great deal at different areas of the woods. Thanks for the suggestion, I think this will really help.

[Aoresteen]

EI means Exposure Index. The the valuse you set on your camera's meter to let it know how fast the film is. You can use A or P as the camera will expose the film based on what "ISO" or "ASA" it is set to.

 

Keep notes on what you did! Trying to remember 24 exposures 3 days later can be difficult!

 

Good luck!