Jobo with Tetenal C41 Press kit

[danny_liao]

I recently started processing my Kodak 4x5 VC film with my Jobo CPE

using Tetenal's Press Kit. I'm scanning the film with my Canon 9950F.

The results I'm getting looks great. However, so far with all the

ones I processed, I'm getting a green cast in all of them. Is this

normal? I never had this problem before when getting color negs

processed at a lab so I'm thinking some where along the line, I

screwed up. Any suggestions? I was told to Stabilize/Fix it a little

bit longer. Is this correct? If so, by how much? I've been going by

the recommended 4 mins/30secs, if there is a better time, please let

me know.

 

By the way, the green cast is not created by my scanner. I scanned

other negs processed from labs and they don't have this problem. I've

also checked the negs but it's hard to tell cause negs already have a

magenta cast.

[john_shriver]

Try Kodak or Fuji/Hunt chemicals? Only they have the full set of patented and trade secret formulas that make a true C-41 process.

[stephen_allan]

Hi Danny, Jobo publish times for the various processes on their US website <a href="http://www.jobo-usa.com/instructions/instructions_process_index.htm">here</a>. They recommend a shorter time for the developer of 3min 15 sec. The extended development you have done may account for the green cast, but you would need to test to be sure.

 

Steve

[danny_liao]

Hey Stephen,

 

Thanks for the pointer. I checked the site earlier and didn't find the info so I went off the info provided in that manual. It's weird, the times in the manual is significantlly shorter than the times provided on the web. Anyway, thanks for the help. I'll give the new times a try.

[georg_kern]

If you got neutral results from your scanner with negatives up to now, then this was just good luck. Normally (i.e., in 99% of the cases) you need to do some post-processing. So: this is not a quality criteria to discern between different developer kits.

In general, most home-processing kits use a combined bleach-fix (these two steps are seperate in machine processing), and this is known to cause a denser orange-brownish mask. After converting the negative to positive, this might lead to more green.

 

Regards

Georg

[discpad]

About the only thing the Tetenal "Press Kit" is now good for is, well, when you're out in the field and your dSLR just went TitsUp.Com and you're on your emergency 35mm camera.

<br><br>

If Ron checks in, he'll tell you that producing a "strong enough" bleach-fix ("blix") for C41 & E6 processing is like balancing an upside-down chandelier.

<br><br>

Since you're shooting 4x5, I recommend getting the Kodak "Pro" chemistry individually: You'll save money; and get MUCH better results. If you're in NYC, B&H or Adorama has the chemistry; and you can pick it up without the $20 hazmat shipping surcharge imposed by FedEx or UPS.

<br><br>

By the way, I *highly* recommend you trade in your CPE for a model higher up, so you can use a Pro (3000 series) drum: Using the 2500/2800 series drums with the 2509 sheet film holder STINKS, because of uniformity problems... From an owner of two ATL-3 processors!

<br><br>

Cheers!<br>

Dan<br>

[rowland_mowrey]

Danny;

 

Dan is right, making a blix for film is hard. Making a powder blix for film is VERY hard.

 

That said, I think your problem is either one of two things. You are forming cyan leuco dye due to a defective blix, or more likely, you have poor development and the cyan layer is underdeveloped.

 

You can fix the former problem by rebleaching in a ferricyanide bleach, then fix, wash, stabilize and dry. You cannot fix the second problem.

 

Ron Mowrey