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Calling Hasselblad Street Photographers


diego_k.

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well, i have this little problem with photographers who, as you indicated on another thread are amongst ?print on canvas?! and stretch them on stretcher bars. (i'm a painter and this doesn't sit well.) so, if there are no printed on canvas photos i might check it out.
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Diego, IMHO the Hassey system is not ideally suited to street photography. For fun I've done it, but the pleasure was limited by a number of factors: limited focusing speed; noise; overall size; limited ergonomics and ability to shoot at slower speeds.

 

But my Rolleiflex 3.5F is a bit better suited to street photography becuase it is a bit more discrete; silent; marginally better ergonomics for the task; easier to shoot at low speeds.

 

Ultimately rangefinders make more ideal street shooters IMHO. I use Leica M for that because 35mm focal lengths offer greater DOF (comparative angle of view/focal length) and easier zone focusing; easier to shoot at low speeds; more discrete size; silent operations; more compact gear to wander around with.

 

I'm sure Mamiya 6 & 7 rangefinders are wonderful street shooters and of course, offer those maginficent big 6x7 images!

 

So if you want MF in the field IMHO stick with the Mamiya rangefinder, Rollieflex TLR or even an earlier rollfilm folder.

 

Folders I use are Super Ikontas and Bessas (from 6x4.5 to 6x9) and they are wonderful especially in B&W. And the handy VC meters that fit on the accessory shoe makes metering easy.

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Jeff, Wether you like them or not, its up to you. I posted these as the most chalenging situations if I were using an Hblad system.

 

#1 was plus X at 250 1/15 F3.5 About 10pm

 

#2 HP5 at 800, 1/4 F3.5 Iluminated only by a halogen spot.

 

#3 Trix at 640 1/15 F3.5

 

#4 FP4 80 3.5 at 1/30

 

#5 HP5 200 5.6 speed unrecorded, at 1m distance (I dont know these guys)

 

I do have more "streety" photos but those I am well aware can be done with fair amount of success with an Hblad.

 

Foy you information, # 1, 4 and 5 are in the open street, no back yards. # 2 and 3 are in busy clubs at around 1 to 3AM.

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<I> You coming to my show? It's up for a whole month, so the usual excuses won't

work...</I><P>

 

Claudia, come to Jeff's reception and I'll give you the details on the secret Sylvia Plachy

lecture coming up real soon.

www.citysnaps.net
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Great photos.

 

On the few occasions I've taken the 500c/m on the street: it's cumbersome.

However, having the camera at waistlevel makes a world of difference in the

way you'll be perceived by your subjects. If you're worried about mirror flop,

Delta 3200 EI 800, or zone focus and lock the mirror up.

The big camera is perplexing to a lot of people on the street (i.e., is that an

old movie camera?) and people who are used to being photographed seem

to be more willing/compliant for a big camera. Thus the saying, "always smile

at the biggest camera," or something like that.

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I was a Nikon and Contax G user. I wanted something with a

bigger neg and was always curious about Hasselblads. I bought

a fairly used one and immediately took a liking to it, but when I

traveled I tended to take the Contax, one of the Nikons or both

along. After a while I got sick of lugging the gear and decided to

see how I'd feel with a new 501CM. I now use the 501CM almost

exclusvely. And I do street photography. I have even used it on

the NYC subway, which has lighting far worse than one would

imagine. If you take the time to learn Hasselblad there is no

problem at all with 1/30 or even 1/15th sec exposures. You

simply have to be serious enough and not go running back to

another system every time you feel frustrated. The waist lever

finder is a huge advantage for candid. I took shots in bars and

restaurant in Paris at distances less than 5 feet, and no one

noticed anything.

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