Flash settings with 111f

[simann]

I recently used a Colmann remote flash unit via the built-in cable

connection from the flash to my 111f for some night time indoor

shots, but the photos I took were very under exposed (almost black).

I used what I thought to be a correct speed setting of 1-60 sec with

a 50 ASA film. So where did I go wrong, speed to fast, wrong film or

what. I would like some suggestions, I don't want to ruin anymore

film by trial and error.

[pensacolaphoto]

Which aperture setting did you use? At ASA50, maybe an aperture of 4.0-5.6 may have been suitable, but this depends on the guide number of your flash untit. I often set the aperture at 8.0 with ASA160 film and my Osram flash.

[john_shriver]

Was the delay dial at the right setting for X sync? (I's assuming you weren't using flashbulbs.) Does X sync really work on the camera? Take off the lens, point the flash at the shutter, take a picture, see if you see the entire pressure plate.

[Aoresteen]

Simon,

The film speed (ASA) has nothing to do with how to sync a flash with a IIIf (you do have to set the f/stop correctly for exposure)

 

Does your IIIF work ok with an on camera flash? Does the entire frame get exposed?

 

You must know if your IIIf is a black dial or red dial. Here's how to set the sync numbers of a IIIf for electronic flash:

 

http://www.cosmonet.org/camera/leic3f_e.htm

 

Set your IIIF up correctly for on camera flash, take a few shots and have the film developed. If all is well then try the remote unit.

[rjm photo]

Cameraquest.com has a small section devoted to which synchronization number you should be using with this camera for electronic flash. If I remember correctly it is (2) with a black dial IIIF. I have gotten great results with this camera and a old Vivitar 285 flash unit.

[pensacolaphoto]

It seems that everybody but me suspects an incorrect camera setting. I don't have a Leixa III. On the other hand, why couldn't it simply be the wrong aperture used for the Flash's guide number?

[andrew_hall1]

>why couldn't it simply be the wrong aperture used for the Flash's guide number?<P>

 

Because:<br>

 

1. You have to select the correct setting (X instead of M) for electronic flash.<P>

 

2. It doesn't X-sync at "1-60 sec": http://www.cosmonet.org/camera/leic3f_e.<P>

 

BTW, it's called <b>IIIf</b> and pronounced <b>"3f"</b>, not "triple-one-f".

[andrew_hall1]

Whoops, Anthony already beat me to quoting that page....

[pensacolaphoto]

Well, users of the IIIF ("3F" and not "three ones f") know more about this camera than I do as I don't own one. I know that you must use the X setting, but the original posting did not state this fact. My comment is based on the original posting.

[pensacolaphoto]

It is as Anthony mentioned above: "you do have to set the f/stop correctly for exposure")

[e_b7]

1/60 is too fast. As mentioned above, I believe it's 1/30. An M camera is only 1/48, although I've gotten proper synch with 1/60 on an M4 at 1/60 by accident. Do you have the manual for this camera?

[e_b7]

Manual for this camera:

 

http://yandr.50megs.com/leica/3f/3f.htm

 

p. 52 says 1/25 for zero delay electronic flash units.

[simann]

Thank you all for the replies. Just to clear up a few points, the culmann flash unit is designed as a remote flash (to sync with an on-board flash) but I was using it with its own hot shoe connection on the camera and the short lead into the plug on the 111f, the synchronisation No. was correct (No.2) for my black dial camera, but I think the major fault was the speed setting, reading your comments, the web site you suggested, and the book of course, it looks like I should have used a speed of 1-20sec and not 1-60.

I shall go out today get another film and try it.

[ben z]

Using too high a shutter speed would result in an image with all or part of the frame completely cut off in black, with a sharp line. Using too small a lens aperture (and/or having the flash too far away and/or set at too low a power) would result in an underexposed image but it would be a complete exposure of the 35mm frame. Of course if the underexposure was bad enough you might not see the partial obstruction by the too-fast shutter. The recommended flash sync speed on my IIIf is 1/30, at 1/60 (assuming the shutter isn't running slow) about a quarter to a third of the frame is blocked by the shutter curtain, but if the lens aperture was several stops under to begin with, I might not even notice the shutter curtain in the shot. From what Simon writes, I suspect there may be this combination.

[andrew_hall1]

...or maybe Simon's <b>triple-one-f</B> (a name he insists on) behaves differently from the <b>IIIf</b> (pronounced "3f") that we have been talking about. ;)

[e_b7]

I was thinking the same as Ben, why you didn't have the image of a partial curtain? Perhaps your f-stop was too small as well? I'd suggest bracketing the next test roll at the 1/20 speed, and with a wide enough range of f-stops to help you find out what is going on. Let us know!