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Stylus Epic, Stylus, XA, XA2 best point and shoot?


rob_murray

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Ok, of this group of cameras which would you keep in your car or take

on a bike trip? I currently have an original stylus camera with its 3

element lens 35mm F3.5 and was looking for less shutter lag and a

sharper lens...Zone focusing is fine, less noise when shooting is

always a plus too. I have played with these and like the hair trigger

of the XA series(no shutter lag and nearly silent). I hear folks have

problems with missed focus on the Epic, is that true?

Rob

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Hi Rob,

 

I have used the XA and XA2 and I much prefer the simpler XA2 for cycling trips. In fact, I prefer the handling of the XA2 in general; I find that the XA is a little *too* small for my liking (uh, oh - here come the flames...:-). Both are capable cameras, though, and you won't be disappointed with the images from either one.

 

Can't comment on the Epics, but the water & dust resistance would be nice if you are stuffing the camera in a jersey pocket or seat bag.

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I have both the Oly XA, and the Epic, the Epic has better lens , I use the spot focus/meter mode where I can select where to focus,I find the focus very accurate in this mode. go with the EPIC, it is also alot faster with the AF and auto exposure. here is a example of the Epic in spot focus/meter mode.

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/1582596

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Don't understand your qualifying of the XA as "too small" and preferring the XA2. I have both and they're identical in size. Certainly the XA2 with it's 3-zone focus system is the quicker of the two, but I would describe the lens as just barely adequate.

 

My Stylus, which is an early one, will occasionally focus on the wrong object, though less often than I do myself with the XAs.

However shutter lag is nearly imperceptible.

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Any XA or XA2 will be of pensionable age by now, and nothing lasts for ever, especially the XA series' wind-on mech. Bear in mind an overhaul for the XA costs about $80.

 

The Stylus Epic has a faster, sharper lens than its predecessor, and is my choice. The spotmeter is worthwhile compensation for the XA's aperture and ISO control. Missed focus is rare, although it can happen. Its close-focus ability, built-in flash, DX coding etc make up for lack of exposure control and silent shutter (unless silence is paramount).

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I found that most Olympus P&S AF cameras are prone to misfocusing, including the highly rated Stylus Epic. Also, they simply aren't made as well as the XA-series. To be fair, tho', hardly any P&S cameras these days are made as well as the earliest AF P&S cameras.

 

The XA-2 and XA-3 zone focusing is plenty good enough for my needs. With fast film, ISO 400-800, DOF is usually great enough to account for focus errors. I've often forgotten to reset the zone focus - which defaults to the middle setting every time the cover is slid shut - back to the closeup or distance setting, and still got sharp results.

 

The main advantage to the newer P&S models is the compact size and built in flash. But they're noisier while the XA-series are almost silent - the only sounds you hear are the almost inaudible sound of the film actually moving against the pressure plate and takeup spools, and the faint click of the shutter, no noisier than clicking a retractible ballpoint pen.

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My stylus epic only misses focus in the hands of my wife. This is because, like most people, she regards it as a point and shoot camera rather than a point, half press, wait a fraction of a second until the green light shows and then shoot. It is imperative on the Stylus Epic to make a slight pause at the halfway point on the shutter in order to let the autofocus determine the distance. Most people press the shutter in one swift movement.

 

It seems that in the absence of any focus confirmation it defaults to infinity so even if the group of people are dead center it may still have appeared to focus on the skyline behind them.

 

It can, also miss focus if you have two heads in the frame with a gap between so, even if you pause to let the autofocus do its job, you will still get the background sharp not the heads. Almost every P&S is guilty of this to a greater or lesser degree

 

This behavior is made worse by the exposure program that Olympus built in - it holds on to f2.8 until there is enough light for 1/250th second and only then starts to close the aperture down. Therefore depth of field is more limited and focussing errors more obvious than on other cameras that would select a smaller aperture.

 

I don't experience any of these problems with my Contax T3 which still manages to determine the focus distance no matter how fast I trip the shutter and even if I have the main subject off center. Hovever this cost over $600 compared to $90 for the Stylus Epic.

 

Once I worked out the need to wait for the green light on the Epic(which is, incidently, made clear in the user manual - but who ever reads those? I prefered to waste several rolls of film finding out for myself) and keep the focus point in the center of the frame (or hold the half-press to lock focus then recompose) I can say I have never had a single missed focus from the Oly and have enjoyed the sharp, contrasty pictures it produces.

 

On the other hand, if you have to think that much about how you are handling the equipment then it can hardly be called a "point & shoot" camera. The other cameras you mention probably require even more thought to use - coincident rangefinder, set aperture - so you sound as if you are prepared to do more than just point & shoot therefore the Stylus Epic is by far the best choice (I couldn't stand the vignetting on the XA I had).

 

Another vote for the Epic.

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I have an XA, several XA2s, and XA3 and a Stylus Zoom (35-70) On a bike trip, many of which I have taken, I'd take the XA2. I have never had a problem with sharpness. It is simple and relatively tough. No worry about rangefinder being vibrated out of adjustment. Small batteries which seem to last forever. No mechanical winding mechanism to go wrong. As far as winding, I have had no problems with about 4 of these little cameras, all purchased used.
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The XA2 and XA3 (as XA2 with DX coding) are fine if zone focussing and program mode are adequate. But you'll miss out on the ability to focus closer than about 3 or 4 feet, the spotmeter (invaluable IMHO) and the sharper f2.8 lens, which doesn't appear to show any light fall-off. I liked the XA3 I used, but found it frustrating after the Epic's extra features.
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