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Fixing Oily Aperture blades on 50mm F1.4 AIS


haris

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I recently came into possession of an optically beautiful Nikkor 50mm

f1.4 AI-S lense. The apperture blades are oily and stick to the point

of not being able close fast enought before the shutter is fired.

 

I am looking for suggestions how to deal with it. I am mechanically

able and would like to fix the problem myself, but if the probability

of destroying the lense is more than 80% I'd rather not do that.

Then, if the cost of fixing it commercially is close to $100 I can buy

another one.

 

I would greatly appreciate any help: do it myself/take to a commercial

repair center, how to remove the oil, how to lubricate after I remove

the oil, things to watch for during (dis)assembly, places to take the

lense (I am in Chicago/Naperville), any things that could happen that

I can't even imagine...

 

Thanks!

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Your best bet is to replace it since a professional clean and lub job would probably run at least $75. I wouldn't DIY since it's something that requires special tools to dismantle without marring the lens. Check around first for any reputable repair service as I'm sure there are plenty in your area. If it can be done for around $50-$60 it may be worth it.
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Since you're in the Chicago Area, I highly recommend Authorized Nikon Service in Morton Grove, 847-966-4091.

 

My f/1.4 AIS developed about the same problem a couple of years after I bought it used. If you like your lens and it is in otherwise good condition, have it repaired. If you buy another lens, you'll be left with an expensive paperweight, and are likely to need a CLA for the replacement anyway.

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You need a spanner wrench for this model. I have a 50/1.4 AIS

that some kind person baked in a car trunk or pickup glove box,

etc. I bought it use for a very nice price. A friend has cleaned

it for me before. Im going to buy a spanner wrench and do

the job myself. Its not really too difficult if you have

skills with small tools and delicate things. Ive done minor

repairs on perhaps a dozen AI and AIS Nikkors. You have to be

careful not to screw things up but its not rocket science.

I dont have the skills for dealing with individual elements

so I only removes whole groups of lenses in there sub-barrels. <br>

<br>

I think my friend charges $40.00 but he is getting out of the

business and is not setup for taking in work from the internet.

He used to have a shop in a family owned specialty camera store

but it folded due to racial prejudice and other factors. I would

not give up on the lens.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

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If you are so inclined to give it a try - I suggest using trays for each group of disassembly - tupperware - whatever & group them in sequence of the disassembly. For any small screws/detent springs, etc. keep some tape handy to secure them.

 

There are a lot of opinions regarding the aperture blades - my process is to use lighter fluid to remove all traces of oil - then I will use super-fine graphite powdered onto a piece of paper & use lens tissue to apply a thin film of graphite - after each blade I use compressed air to blow off extra.

 

 

Oldtimer solution is to use an HB pencil burnished onto a piece of paper creating some extra dust & rub your tissue into it & then wipe each blade.

 

Lastly - there are those who feel that no lubricating is neccesary & after cleaning simply re-assemble.

 

Give it a try - you may have fun doing it & enjoy the results.

 

Good Luck!

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Nikkors are pretty straightforward for the most part. Here's how they come apart:

<br><br>

<a href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-102.html">Nikkor Lens Stuff</a>

<br><br>

It doesn't need lubrication after it's clean, it wants to run dry. Access to the diaphragm is through the front; it's easier to clean if you remove both the front and rear glass, but unless it's really bad you can do it without removing the diaphragm from the barrel (this is best, as you don't disturb the adjustments). Once you have the glass out, clean the blades with a cotton swab soaked in cigarette lighter fluid and don't stop repeating the process until they're really clean and oil-free.

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Ditto Richard's advice. Manual focus lenses need lubrication only on the focusing helicoid (and zoom ring, if applicable). The weight and amount of grease can be selected to affect how stiffly and precisely or how smoothly and quickly the rings turn. I added an extra stiff grease to the focusing helicoid of my 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor becase it shift just enough after releasing the lens barrel to make accurate focusing difficult. The lens is now much stiffer to turn, especially in cool weather, but it focuses exactly where I put it.

 

You want to be sure to use (or have the shop use) a grease that won't easily liqueify and migrate under warm conditions, such as sitting in a black camera bag slung over your should on a long summer day. Migrating grease is usually responsible for oily aperture blades because lens makers don't lubricate the blades. They're intended to run dry - no oil, no graphite or moly powder, no nothing..

 

If you like the lens and it's been a good optical performer I'd suggest having it professionally CLA'd.

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I too am in Hugh's situation. I have a nice, clean 55 F2.8AIS micro lens, but it has a huge amount of oil on the blades. I searched the yahoo group, but nothing definitive, so if anyone has a breakdown or other suggestions, I for one would be obliged. Thanks

 

Don Griffiht

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I called a couple of dealers in Chicago area and the prices range from $50 (mail-in) to $75 on the low end (simple CLA). This is for 50mm f/1.4 AIS Nikkor. AF lenses may be more expensive to maintain, I am not sure.

 

Thanks for all the advice! I decided to give it a try and will attempt home-cleaning some day soon. For the price of cleaning, I can find another used lense if it does not work out. I intend to document the process in words and pictures and will post the results. I hope someone else may find it useful whatever the outcome.

 

Thanks to all again.

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