alan_wilder1

I have a 600/4E FL that has barely a trace amount of tripod collar play such that when mounted, rotation is slightly sticky due to the front weight distribution. Play is so slight that I only detect it when pulling the lens out of my Tenba long bag by the tripod foot. Slightly pushing up on the front section of the lens offsets the weight distribution and allows smoother rotation. Are there any screws covered under the collar post that can be tightented to fix this issue? It's certainly not bad enough to send to Nikon and pay several hundred $$ for service including shipping. Of course this may be perfectly normal over time when using this type of lens.

Among Nikon's very best zoom designs at the peak of their manual focus lens production in the early 1980's, it was the precursor today's 24-70 zooms. IQ is quite high and similar to prime lenses. The glass is truely pristine without marks or flaws on the exposed glass surfaces. Internally it is also quite clean. Mechanics are silky smooth on both focus and zoom rings. The aperture ring action is nice and tight with solid click stops. Aperture blades are nice and snappy. While I'd rate the glass as a solid 10, it is not a shelf queen so it's barrel cosmetics are 8+ showing typical spots of wear to the barrel's semi-gloss black enamel finish and bright marks/wear at the edge of the aperture ring likely due rubbing when mounted on a tripod plate. Includes a high quality Hoya HD UV filter and caps. Considered by "Moose" Peterson as one of Nikon's "Oldies but Goodies". Asking price $190 including shipping in the CONUS.

I had no AF fine tune issues with any of the current Nikon TCs being calibrated well within the +/- 20 range on my D500, D850 or D750. I did learn from a Nikon ambassador that a fine tune greater than +/-10 indicates someting may be off on the camera or lens. I don't know if this also applies to calibration with a TC.

A unique micro design ideal for macro field work to fill the frame by simply zooming in or out rather than changing working distance. Razor sharp and highly corrected for aberrations whether for macro or general photography. Mint cosmetic condition, the glass is free of marks/defects and it's function/mechanics are issue-free. Unlike other Nikon micros at minimum focus, it's effective f-number is maintained while the others lose about 1-2 stops of light. The front element doesn't rotate during focus nor extend past the hood at minimum focus. The attached RRS footplate improves stability and includes a 1/4" tripod bushing for non-Arca-Swiss mounting. Includes a new B+W MRC UV filter, Nikon HB-14 hood and caps. Price includes shipping in CONUS.

I use to own the 600/4D AF-S version (purchased used for over $5K) and other than complaints of weight of 5,900g, I found it very sharp and fortunately no motor issues. Much later I sold it and purchased the current lighter E-FL version (3,810g). Unfortunately, over time I wasn't shooting as many bald eagles and birds so I sold it when the 500/5.6 PF came out and really love it's sharpness and portability. However, at the right price, I wouldn't mind having a 600/4 for the extra reach and better isolation not to mention use of my TC-17E II or TC-20E III on my DSLRS. That's where the 600/4D AF-S II comes in. It is the same size as the current E FL and the next lightest of their 600/4s at 4,750g. Granted it weighs almost 1kg more than the E-FL, balance is front heavy and no VR (not a huge issue since the lens would never be used handheld) but at a price of $4,250 for a lens having a recent complete overhaul including motor replacement by Nikon, I though it worthwhile to purchase.

I passed up on buying the Z6 even though I could have purchased one last week after putting my name on the local dealers pre-order list a few months ago. The "cons" issues of among other things AF performance, low buffer capacity and shallow sensor location (leading to increased dust bunny issues) outweighed the "pros" of much improved Z mount S series optical performance (based on Nikon MTF charts), smaller, quiter and other mirrorless camera benefits. I suspect within a year, Nikon will introduce improved versions that may be more enticing but for now I'll stick with my D500 and D850.

Sent my D750 in on 7/17 and it arrived back home on 7/26. Invoice state the shutter was replaced, general clean/check, AF adjusted, CCD cleaned, communication checked and firmware updated. Surprised turnaround was that quick. Haven't really plated with it yet.

<p>Speaking of the 35/2.8 PC Nikkor, I use to own one and found of all their MF 35's, it was their sharpest optic edge to edge. Most likely, I think it was due to the inherently large image circle. Conversely, the 28/3.5 PC's IQ was terrible, the edge quality only became decent when stopped down several stops. </p>

<p>Great summary Peter, it covers all key points.</p>

<p>It depends on your camera. If shooting film with F3 bodies and earlier, choose the focusing aid that gives best focus critical focus, i.e. split image, microprism or ground glass. Typically, there was usually a slight focus offset (about 0.05 mm) to the film plane between the split image/microprism compared to the surrounding ground glass. I only shoot digital and these bodies let you fine tune focus for optimal focus of any given AF lens with the camera's AF system.</p>

<p>Over the years I tried more than a few versions of this optic and found performance to be very consistent with little sample variation unlike a few Nikkors that had a reputation for sample variation. Unless the lens has evidence of tampering or physical abuse, it is what it is. The lens has some shortcomings wide open, but stopping down a little clears most of them up very nicely. My preference for a 35 prime is the 35/2 AFD because performance can be tweaked with the camera's AF fine tuning, something impossible to do with MF gear.</p>

<p>As an optometrist that shoots with Nikon, I'd suggest choosing the closest Nikon diopter lens that corresponds to your distance spectacle Rx with the eye you normally shoot. For example, if you normally use the left eye and it's distance correction is +1.75 +0.50 x 070, choose the closet diopter power Nikon produces which is a +2D eyepiece lens. Remember that the diopter marking represents the total power of the viewfinder system which should match your distance correction assuming you aren't wearing glasses or contacts. Choosing the computer power of your Rx may be clearer for the peripheral metering displays but will be blurry for the focusing screen or split image focusing aid.</p>

<p>I tried the 1st version of the 80-400 f/4.5-5.6 VR when it came out in my film shooting days and found it did a decent job up to 300 for most of the frame. Beyond that, IQ really dropped and it was only sharp on axis at best. Stopped down to f/11 helped a little but off axis was still poor. I finally gave up and switched to the 80-200/2.8 AFS with a TC-20E that beat the other lens at the long end. Given your budget, this isn't an option. The key point is that when shooting at 400, as long as it's for dead center subjects like a bird or small animal, you'll be fine.</p>

<p>The entire focusing screen of most DSLRs is typically composed of very fine microprisms that usually show exact focus with a 2x eyepiece magnifier but preferably two piggy-backed 2X magnifiers. These are much finer than the coarse microprism spots found in older film cameras like the F4 that can be detected without the use of extra magnification. Works great on my D750 if I want to confirm the focusing screen focus matches the AF focus. Of course, the center portion of the screen is what you'll be evaluating. </p>

<p>If one needs to alter the bayonet flange to sensor distance, there is something seriously wrong as I would expect this would be the last thing needing any modification.</p>

<p>I'm in no position to disagree with those that use the camera's AF fine tuning feature to tweak your lens but, if you already own a Sigma USB Dock, I'd use it instead. This is what I did on my 35/1.4 Art. The big advantage is that you won't be using up one of the camera's twelve fine tune presets that could be used on other lenses especially if you own a couple of TC units that are combined with other telephoto primes or zooms.</p>

<p>Older DSLRs like the D700 have 2 separate mirror stops (one for the main mirror, the other for the AF mirror that piggybacks on the main mirror). I'll use this to illustrate how I use to do it when both stops were "user" adjustable with a hex wrench.<br> Since the only thing that can't be easily adjusted is the lens to sensor distance, you must first determine with a lens set up as manual focus, the distance setting that gives you exactly "perfect" focus. Optimally, I'd use a prime like a 50 mm, set at f/4 using a resolution test chart at about 10 feet away. If your viewfinder's focusing screen doesn't match this focus, the main mirror stop must first be adjusted. Checking focus should be initially done on the focusing screen's ultrafine micro-prism with at least one (if not two "piggybacked" giving 4x) accessory 2x critical focus magnifiers (Nikon DG-2) easily purchased used on eBay or Amazon. Once this is correctly adjusted, adjust the secondary AF mirror so that the camera sets the focus to match the established "perfect" focus setting when AF is engaged. Modern Nikon DSLRs usually achieve with the menu's AF micro-focus adjustment rather than playing with the secondary AF mirror which is typically done by the factory or a service tech.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I've done this on earlier bodies like the F100, D700 and D800 with a simple hex wrench. Sadly, more recent bodies like the D750 don't have the same setup this but fortunately, it wasn't necessary with recent improvement in their tolerances. I can't speak to the D610 but if in doubt, send it out to Nikon USA or APS for adjustment to factory specs.</p> </blockquote>

<p>I recently purchased the 25-50/4 AIS the lens and highly recommend it. Testing it on my D750 shows sharpness similar to primes with high IQ and very low distortion. Keep in mind that when it was introduced there were no Lightroom to compensate for lens distortion and other image robbing defects. Build quality well exceeds most of Nikon's current offerings as this lens was originally built to their highest standards back in the early 80's before introduction of their AF lenses. I would however suggest getting the AIS over the AI as the shorter focus throw on the AIS version is much easier to use. </p>

<p>My Art 35/1.4 focus is accurate and consistent at all distances on my D750 delivering tack sharpness wide open with only +5 adjustment across all distance settings from their USB Dock. The Nikon fine-tuning was left at 0 before adjusting lens calibration with the USB Dock. The trick is to make certain the camera's AF calibration is accurate from the start. I find this is generally true on more current bodies like the D750 or D810 or if most of your Nikkors require little or no AF fine-tuning with your camera. Chances are that if most of your lenses require significant fine-tuning (>+/- 10), the Art 35/1.4 may require a bit more calibration with the USB Dock.</p>

<p>I had a similar problem with my out of warranty 300/4 AF-S not autofocusing on my D750 but my focused perfectly on other bodies like my D800, D700, etc. Nikon initially CLA and replaced the SWM on service which did <strong>not</strong> fix the problem. After 3 unsuccessful attempts (even keeping my body for good measure), they eventually replaced a component called the DC/DC converter (at my insistence) which did the trick. Although it sounds like your SWM needs replacing, I would <strong>insist</strong> they <strong>also</strong> replace the DC/DC converter. If they only CLA, replace the SWM motor and it still doesn't autofocus, the DC/DC converter is the likely culprit.</p>

<p>It's likely normal and unlikely a defect unless the lens shows signs of damage or abuse. There was very little sample variation with these premium lenses. Remember at the time these lenses were made, film curl had to be taken into account. Also, critical focusing was usually done with central a split image aid or micro-prism spot, both of which had an intentional slight back focus offset (i.e. behind the subject) from the film plane compared to the outer ground glass field. This sacrifices a little center sharpness to help reduce blur with off center subjects. It also helps to offset focus shift at opening wider than f/4 since the central focusing aids "sees" the subject at around f/4.5, not wide open as one might expect. CRC helps somewhat at distance under a 1 meter but by no means approaches flat field quality.</p>

<p>Another way to check correct focus is with a Nikon 2x eyepiece magnifier and preferably a second 2x magnifier piggybacked over the 1st one giving a net 4x magnification. The subject I use to focus is a 1951 USAF resolution chart because it's easy to detect even the slightest mis-focus. This assumes the focusing screen focus matches sensor focus. I'm lucky as it does match on my D750. If you have this setup, first manual focus and determine what focus setting gives sharpest focus. Make note of the where the index mark lines up on the distance scale. Switching over to AF, see if it lines up the same way and also confirm in the viewfinder best focus is achieved. If necessary add or subtract points on the USB Dock to get the AF to give settle on the established best manual focus setting.</p>

<p>Correction, prior to adding +5 to USB Dock, the distance index mark was only off by <1mm and after adding +5 the index mark was off by only <0.5mm.</p>

<p>I've had no expeience with Sigma zooms that accept the USB Dock but in general when using Nikon AF fine tuning on my D750 for zooms, I typically select the middle of the focal range or the long end if that's where I'd expect to use it more often for shooting. Regarding the 35/1.4 ART, my sample had the same distance scale discrepancy prior to adjustment throughout the focusing range, i.e. the index line was <2mm to the left of the correct distance marking on the scale whether focused at 0.3m or infinity. After dialing in +5 at all ranges on the Dock, the scale discrepancy was only off <1mm but focusing was spot on thoughout the range based on the image sharpness with test charts and checking plane of focus aimed on a subject at a 45 degree angle.</p>