What about lower lower temp., longer time for C-41?

[photom]

I read an article that it is okay to use a lower temp (upper 80's,

low 90's F) for C-41 as long as you adjust the time correctly. The

advantage is it slows the process down making the initial agitation

less critical. Also might be easier to maintain the bath temp. Other

than more time, there must be a downside. Maybe lower contrast

(probably can be added back in PS). Any thoughts?

http://www.shutterbug.com/columns/0199sb_inthedark/

[rowland_mowrey]

Tom;

 

BTDT.

 

Doesn't work very well. The cyan layer on the bottom does not catch up properly so you get crossover. You can do a partial fixup by having an extended wash after the developer, but it isn't very good IMHO.

 

I've worked quite a bit on it and wasted a lot of film.

 

In addition to all of the above, you can upset the grain, interimage and edge effects of the film, which can be measured only with sophisticated equipment. This leads to subtle changes that are sometimes not readily apparent.

 

Ron Mowrey

[scott_eaton]

What Rowland said.

 

We tried this in lab several times and there was too much thermal reciprocity with the film layers. Plus, you need all the contrast you can get with print film, and low temp/longer process times works agaisnt this.

 

RA-4 paper on the other hand, especially Kodak's, seemed to improve a bit when we decreased process temps and kicked our process time up.

[rowland_mowrey]

What Scott said.

 

RA paper is very nice down to 68 deg F using RA-RT replenisher developer and about 2' development. I find a small change of about 10R or 10Y as temperature goes down.

 

Ron Mowrey

[photom]

Thanks guys - I guess I won't waste my time and film. I read the Shutterbug article by Darryl Nicholas and it caught me by surpirse so I thought I would get a second opinion.

 

http://www.shutterbug.com/columns/0199sb_inthedark/

[rowland_mowrey]

Tom;

 

The article is pretty good. I disagree with 2 points. 1. I always pre-wet all film and paper for uniformity. It works! and 2. I always reuse bleach and fix, as they are still good for the total capacity listed. I only use the developer as a one-shot solution.

 

Ron Mowrey

[photom]

Rowland two more questions:

 

1) Does pre-wetting require a slight reduction in dev. time?

 

2) What is the best way to determine if bleach or fix is still good? ph test? color?

[rowland_mowrey]

Tom;

 

I use exactly the recommended time and I have plotted neutral scales that look right on. My process and color balance matches the local pro lab that I sometimes use. I use 30" prewet at 100 F (two changes of water and I usually am exactly at 100. Then I develop for 3'15". My dump starts (depending on the qty of film) at 8" - 15" before the end of the cycle for both the prewet and the developer. The developer is tossed after 1 use.

 

As for bleach and fix, it is hard to tell. I use it to capacity, then remove about 100 ml from a liter and add fresh and just keep going. I've got a batch now that was started 6 months ago and I just keep adding fresh to the 1 liter container.

 

The fix is so cheap that it really shouln't matter. I could toss it, I guess.

 

I keep using the stabilizer until forever. It seems to keep well and if it gets grungy with particles like dust, I filter it.

 

Ron Mowrey