Contax T3 - User Comments, Discussion (PART 2)

[jerome1]

Well now I think I have understood everything about focusing

possibilities ;-)

 

<p>

 

What about meter accuracy ? Has anyone shooted slides with bright

sunshine ? This is a good test to see whether the shutter goes as fast

as it is written. For example:

- with 100 ISO slide film and a lot of sun, you need f/8 @ 1/500 (f/16

rule). In A mode, choose f/8 and see what happens.

 

<p>

 

 

J.

[john_erro]

Interested in the program mode shutter speeds on the T3. Does it try

to use faster shutter speeds? If I remember correctly, the T2 would

use 1/250 or above in program mode until the aperture opened to f5.6

or so.

Thanks

[kwen_wan1]

John Erro

 

<p>

 

T3 program hangs onto something like 180th sec up to EV 16.5

at full bore f2.8, it's not until then, that the program allows a

smaller aperture. Program's weighted slightly more to stopping

down more rapidly than increasing the speed of the shutter once

the 180th speed as been reached.

 

<p>

 

For my own personal liking, program maintains too high a

shutter speed at lower EV values, I would prefer it to open up the

aperture a stop to f4 at 30th or 60th sec. These lower shutter

speeds are fine for me for the program to start stopping down.

[kwen_wan1]

Has anyone stopped the T3 down to f11 or f16..I get pretty

horrible results regarding light fall off on the edges of the frame,

very noticable 'shadows' though perhaps not as noticable as in

T4 or 35Ti..usual clear sky brings it out more.

 

<p>

 

Good job it has a high shutter speed, think I will keep it tagged to

f5.6 if possible

[andrew_schank]

The higher speeds are not available until f8, in both aperture

preferred and Program modes. Can't say I've noticed much corner fall

off at the smaller f stops. Haven't had occasion to use f16 though,

but have used f11, and with negative film did not see any light loss

on the edges. The Pop photo review didn't find a corner illumination

problem either.

[charles_stewart1]

Went to the link, so thoughtfully provided, showing the black T3.

Very nice, indeed. To answer Andrew's question as to what on earth is

wrong with a silver camera, it's just a matter of what kind of

shooting you do and what you prefer, I guess. Those good-looking

nature shots he provided would not pose any problem in this regard. I

tend to shoot out in public and on public streets, and I just don't

like a camera that draws attention to itself. It's not so much that

I'm taking "sneak" photos of people, though I do that occasionally. I

also run into the problem of people wanting to ask about my cameras or

discuss photo equipment when I'm trying to do my photography. And the

other issue, of course, is the one about tempting theft by flashing

something eye-catching that is obviously of considerable value and

very snatchable and concealable for the thief.

Most of it is just a matter of what you're at ease with. I even

black-tape all the yashica advertising on the black t4 super, and

would do the same with the contax legend on the black T3. Yes, I

know: it does sound obsessive, but that's my preference. Anyway, the

link provided says the black version is "soon to be released", so

there must be others with this quirk of mine. I also don't like

corporate logos and advertising things without being compensated for

it, but this is just another personal quirk. It sounds like a great

camera and I'm looking forward to the release of the black T3.

Chas.

[kwen_wan1]

I stumbled across this web page:

http://www.dentontaylor.com/tests/t3.htm

with shots taken with the T3 and the samples 'seem' to exhibit

an uneven illumination across the frame with a vague (discreet)

'hot spot' around the centre of the frame. All four corners of the

frame are slightly darker, similar to my T3 around f8. This is not

too noticable to the average eye, but f11 (on mine) it gets

noticable.

[msitaraman]

Regarding the black T3s. These have been available in Japan for at

least the last 4 months, commanding an only slight premium over the

silver model.

[philip_bonner]

The brighter "hot spots" in the photos @

http://www.dentontaylor.com/tests/t3.htm, definetely appear to be

either fill flash, or, a shaft of natural light, in the flower shots

and naturally uneven, heavily shadowed areas of illumination int the

others.

 

<p>

 

I shoot aperture priority/max stop down all the time and have never

noticed any of the vignetting/corner frame light fall off that is

sometimes noticeable in images rendered by my T5. The Pop Photography

and John McCormack test shots did not display this.

 

<p>

 

BTW @

http://www.photographyreview.com/reviews/PointNShoot_cameras/product_6

517.asp

 

<p>

 

A 4 year Minilux user rated the T3 images superb and superior to the

Minilux and quality on-par with his G-2.

[john_mccormack]

Re: Light 'hot spots' and Denton Taylor's T3 pictures.

 

<p>

 

Denton Taylor is a regular on the Contax list

(http://www.escribe.com/art/contax/index.html?by=Date)

and a long time user of the Contax T2. He indicated that his T3 had a

metering problem w/ slides in bright light.

 

<p>

 

His comment on the list (Mon, 23 Apr 2001) was, "Got my first roll of

slides back today and looks like my camera has a problem akin to the

dreaded Aria bright light syndrome that was argued about before. All

the pix shot in shade are fine, in fact nice and bright. Most of the

shots done in bright sunlight are overexposed by a stop or so."

 

<p>

 

I know he sent his T3 in for repair, but haven't heard whether he has

conducted any further tests. I think if his T3 had a continuing

metering problem, Denton would have mentioned it on the Conax list or

posted images demonstrating the problem. I agree with Phil that the

images in Denton's gallery are probably not caused by the lens itself.

[philip_bonner]

Just checked the eScribe Contax list and Denton posted that he got

his camera back and it is working fine;

 

<p>

 

http://www.escribe.com/art/contax/m41685.html

[kwen_wan5]

Just as I was about to contact Contax to make a warranty claim

on the uneven illumination across the frame on certain small

aperture shots on my sample of T3, (the majority on this thread

do not experience this problem!) I get a totally flat result on a

recent batch. As a test, I had shot the same scene at f4 and f16

and illumination was virtually the same?!

 

<p>

 

The only plausible explanations is perhaps the film pressure on

the backing plate was not even for certain rolls of film? or it

somehow occurred in processing as it is on the neg? Don't have

a clue! Though it continues to be a problem on the 35ti and T4

on small apertures.

 

<p>

 

Though light fall off with the small flash bugs me, so will be

purchasing the SA-2 flash adaptor and TLA 200 flash gun which I

can also use on my G1 making full use of economies of scale.

Just wonder how successful the double flash set up is...report

later..

[efrank]

From what I understand, when using the SA-2 flash bracket and TLA200,

only the TLA200 fires. The bracket has contacts for the camera,

enabling TTL and shutting off the on-board flash. My only nit is

that the TLA200/SA-2 setup doesnt really move the flash off axis

enough--redeye is probably still going to be a big problem. Too

bad the TLA200 wasnt engineered to have bounce capability.

Off topic: Anyone have any idea when the black version is coming to

the US?

[philip_bonner]

Only the TL-200 fires when the image is out of range of the built-in

flash. When out of range the built-in unit provides the red eye pre-

flash and the TL-200 the lights the scene. The TL-200 and SA-2

bracket fit the miniscule T3 nicely with good overall balance. I have

not found them to be cumbersome to carry and to use and have gotten

nicley exposed, high depth, aperture priority flash shots.

[jerome1]

An economic possibility to enhance flash photography with the T3 would

be to use a flash in slave mode, such as the small Metz 34 CS2. I

sometimes use this flash together with a Stylus Epic P&S with nice

results.

 

<p>

 

Jerome

[ccrevasse]

This may be a mistake in Eliott's post, but does the T3 switch to TTL

flash when using the TLA 200? In my opinion, the so-called

flashmatic system (where flash exposure is determined based on focus

distance and film speed, and not measured through the lens) is a

superior system for a P&S camera.

[andrew_schank]

There isn't anything in the camera body that could read TTL flash as

far as I know. The camera does not even read TTL for ambient light,

but has an external center weighted sensor.

[efrank]

Ah, yes, error on my part. Thanks.

[kwen_wan1]

hmm..sales assistant says the SA-2 does provide TTL with

TLA200 unlike the (non TTL) SA-1 adaptor . (perhaps he was

confused) But having a leaf shutter in the way means (if it does

support TTL) it is kinda off the film plane sort when the shot is

being taken and the blades are out the way. Though the initial

preliminary exposure data must be taken from the external meter

on the front of the body as otherwise the T3 won't know to

engage flash mode or not in autoflash setting. I think I will try

Jerome's method with the slave flash first before getting the SA-2

as at least the main flash can be bounced with the T3 flash as

fill.

[philip_bonner]

According to the manual when in aperture priority mode the falsh

output changes according to the subject-camera distance. When in

program mode the camera uses the "flashmatic" system of adjusting the

aperture according to subject camera distance.

 

<p>

 

The SA-2 and the TL-200 are pocketable. When attached to the T3 the

entire rig is still compact and operates as a quick P&S auto shooter

but with the added range of a full size camera.

 

<p>

 

An addition of a small pocketable slave would be interesting.

However, since the T3 is not taking film plane readings to turn off

the flash upon reaching the point of illumination to produce proper

film exposure, it seems the added slave flash could be prone to

causing over exposures.

 

<p>

 

It would take some experimentation before I could rely on it like I

can the TL-200/SA-2 for getting correctly exposed, quick draw P&S

flash shots of distant subjects, or, high depth of field, max

aperture shots of close-by subjects.

[heikki_nurkkala]

Does anybody know how to load partially exposed (eg 18frames) film

back to contax t3? Camera does have custom function to leave film

leader outside the film cartridge after rewinding... very useful if

you cant put film back to camera...

If you have any method to do that I'll be pleased

[jerome1]

1) Of course the slave flash method with a P&S works for subjects that

are out of reach of the body flash, otherwise you may overexpose. It

is possible to put a bit of paper on the body flash to reduce the

distance.

 

<p>

 

2) If the meter is external, you might wind a film until the point you

want by fooling the meter with a lot of light, while keeping a lens

cap not to expose the film. It's a bit tricky, I know...

 

<p>

 

I have ordered a T3 and I am waiting for it...

 

<p>

 

Jerome

[heikki_nurkkala]

Kwen Wan said: "One thing I did notice (on my T3) is that the autofocus

area is approximately 5 ovals wide (if you take the autofocus 'oval'

and lay them out 5 times) and it prevents my T3 from focusing

through a gap in the door which is half open -if I sit stand

about 2 metres back from it. (by the way, are the U.S. T3 distance

scales in feet?). If I take a vertical shot the autofocus area

doesn't clip the edges of the door and focuses through into the

distance."

 

<p>

 

I did find out that contax T3 have 2 different focusing methods! when

you use AFL lock button to focus, the focusing area is EXACTLY the Oval

you see in the viewfinder and when you use halfpress, focusing area is

somewhat 5 ovals wide!

sorry about my english, thats not my strongest skil:)

[john_mccormack]

On August 24, 2001, Heikki Nurkkala wrote:

"I did find out that contax T3 have 2 different focusing methods! when

you use AFL lock button to focus, the focusing area is EXACTLY the

Oval you see in the viewfinder and when you use halfpress, focusing

area is somewhat 5 ovals wide!"

 

<p>

 

Thanks for the information. If this is true, then the AFL button is

using "spot focus." I'll have to test this out with some "macro"

shots at wide apertures.

 

<p>

 

To those who have complained about mis-focusing of the T3, this is not

uncommon with any camera that has a fast lens of f/2.8 or more. I shot

some portraits with an Elan 7 and 50mm f/1.4 lens (set at

f/3.5) recently and the Elan 7 missed the focus with AF in 3 out of 4

shots. There are times when manual focus is a better alternative.

[kwen_wan1]

Heikki what a find! You are right in what you say, the T3 has a

'hidden' spot autofocus function. Though the AFL button for me is

slightly tricky to use, (shame 'spot focus' is not a custom

function). Shame also the distance display is not in the

viewfinder, verification would be easier. (Contax G cameras have

the readout in the viewfinder). Due to manufacturing tolerances

in the G cameras the actual autofocus area may be slightly 'out'

in comparison with the printed focus area in the viewfinder. e.g.

on my G1 the actual focus area is slightly to the left, not sure if it

is the case with the T3 the target on my T3 is pretty central.

 

<p>

 

Since having knowledge of the T3's default wider focus area

which does not correspond to the printed autofocus oval, hardly

any of my pictures are out of focus. The added 'feature' of 'spot

focus' for tricky situations is a bonus. Thanks Heikki for that

discovery.