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C-22 Processing


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I am sure I could find the step-by-step time and temperature information for C-22, but

you must have C-22 chemistry, which hasn't been available for many many years. You

cannot use C-41 as a substitute, as C-22 film stocks are not hardened, and process at a

much lower temperature, and with different chemicals. The C-22 emulsion is very very

delicate until it is dry.

 

If you have a source for "fresh" C-22 chemicals, then please post here, and I will look up

the processing times and temperatures.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Dear Ralf !!

 

There are basicly no strange chemicals, benzyl alcohol seems to be the most "exotic" one.

I've found in this reciept:

 

Developer:

Calgon 2 g

Benzyl Alcohol 5 ml

Sodium metaborate / Kodalk 85 g

Sodiumsulfite 2 g

CD 3 5,3 g = The very common color developing agent No.3

Potassium bromide 1,6 g

Water to 1000 ml

Dev. time is 14 min. at 75?F

ph about 10,6 - 10,7

 

Next follows a stop bath including sodium sulphite and than, before bleaching the formaldehyde hardening bath ( 4 min each).

 

Main question for me, seems to be weather it will be worth all the work. The film must be about 25 jears old and will be at least quite fogged and color shifts will be a problem too. Through the long storage there will be a dramatic loss of film speed, which you can only little compensate. I remarked these effects with another old process (Agfa CNS process) too.

Maybe it will give better results to try a B/W development.

 

Anyway, if you are still interested, give me your mail adress, I will sendt you a pdf with the formula and process times.

 

Regards from Germany

Stefan

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  • 7 months later...

C-22 process requires a formaldehyde pre hardner in order to harden the films emulsion before it is processed. Beyond that it is not radically different from c-41. Without it the emulsion will fall of the base of the film. If you do not have the hardner you can develop it in color at a much lower temperature but you will still get reticulation in the emulsion though it will still likely adhere to the base. The other option is to develop the film into B&W....in fact it's often the best approach (but not always) though I've never seen a reasonably good formula offered in any forum for this.

 

Now I'm sounding cocky.....I'll get just a little more cocky now. There are a few of us in the business of developing old film. Some of us are actually very good at it. Some aren't but there are even a couple of dabblers out there (at least one anyway) that offer the service and do good work. I don't think any of us are getting rich on this business. Our company would charge you far more then your "whopping 27 dollars" but we will also do far better work then you will be able to do yourself. Even our scanning techniques are not typical (film type dependent) There is a good deal to be said for the experience of thousands of rolls (we develop 200 to 400 rolls a month) and a genuine concern to be producing the top possible quality. Some of us offering this service actually do understand the value that these films have to many of the families that send in work and genuinely do want to produce the best possible results.

 

Sorry for the curt letter. I do understand that it's easy to imagine that that the suppliers of this service have a captive audience but there truly is a good deal of competition at this point (7 I'm aware of) and as the top dollar provider for this service we can only rely on having our customers understand that we are doing something for our earnings.

 

 

All the best

 

Greg Miller

 

Film Rescue International

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  • 5 years later...

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