Tuhin Posted February 12, 2005 Share Posted February 12, 2005 When the subject is static ( as in the case of sunrise /sunset ), one can question the use of GND filter specially if someone isusing digital camera . However , for candid shots where sky is present , there is no time to take more than one shot . Does not the use of GND filter becomes inevitable in such circumstances ? I am attaching the following picture taken by me ( D70 , 1/320 , f11 , exp. com -0.3) to highlight my point . Should I use GND filter in such situations or not ? If your answer is yes then what if the second opportunity for the candid shot does not require the use of GND ? Again the third may require ! In other words it increases the hassles . By the time I remove the filter or put it , the opportunity might have been lost . I am asking this because I thinking about buying GND filters( 2 stop soft and 3 stop soft/hard edged ) and want to clear all doubts ( and must be certain of its use ) before I buy .I am an amateur, learning and would be greatly helped by your inputs ! Thanks .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheldonnalos Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 I had a set of GND filters, and ended up selling them when I went digital. I think you can accomplish most of what you want in post processing. If your subject is stationary and you're shooting from a tripod, then you can bracket and blend in Photoshop later on, even going as far as layering and masking 3 or 4 exposures for very high contrast scenes. If your subject is a candid, then a GND filter would be too cumbersome to use quickly. The composition also may not have a perfect horizon for you to put the transition on. What you could do is to shoot RAW, and expose "to the right", just barely keeping the highlights from clipping. Then when you are developing in your RAW converter later on, you can develop twice, once for the highlights and once for the shadows, then blend the two photos in photoshop to maximize dynamic range. Hope this helps! Sheldon<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 You could use a GND filter, but you could also shoot in RAW ratherthan jpg format, and process the image twice -- once for the foreground (subjects) exposure. And a second time to bring up detail i nthe sky. That last technique only works of the sky isn't completely overexposed. forthat reason i still think high quality GND filters are not a bad tool to have around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuhin Posted February 13, 2005 Author Share Posted February 13, 2005 thanks Sheldon and Ellis , your inputs would help to take the decision , thanks very much ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd_caudle Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 Can anyone suggest a good online tutorial for the blending process? Preferably for PS7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheldonnalos Posted February 13, 2005 Share Posted February 13, 2005 Try these tutorials out... http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/u-contrast-masking.shtml http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/blended_exposures.shtml http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/contrast_masking.shtml http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/masking.shtml Hope this helps! Sheldon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hique Posted February 15, 2005 Share Posted February 15, 2005 I think blending exposures work so well that I can't see a reason to buy gnd's. Only if you oppose to digital manipulation and you want your raw files to be perfectly done with the sky dark already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elf Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 Move up to CS and you'll get so much more control you'll never go back to 7 again. It's totally amazing what ACR makes possible. In addition, I've been astounded at the detail that my 10D captures that doesn't show up until I apply some of the controls in ACR. There is so much more in that RAW file than you can see off hand in the browser, you'd be amazed. The other day I underexposed a flash shot at least 4 stops and was able to recover it acceptably for reportorial purposes, not for stock, in CS using ACR. Your RAW file is a wealth of information - neither a negative nor a positive but somthing beyond. It has no innate bias, color or otherwise. No color cast, no mask whatsoever. Very powerful thing that RAW file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j._williams Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 Does this technique work with film? In other words, if you took two exposures with slide film (say Velvia)--exposing one for the highlights and one for the shadows--could the same effect be achieved in Photoshop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elf Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 Yup. A couple of good scans and you're on your way! The real debate centers around how much time it takes to do the mask. And this applies to both film and digital. Irregular edges with lots of leaves, and sometimes it's easier to use the 2 or 3 stop grad because it takes less time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_rosario Posted February 16, 2005 Share Posted February 16, 2005 quote, "--exposing one for the highlights and one for the shadows--could the same effect be achieved in Photoshop?" Don't even need to have two exposures if the detail is there. It can be done with a curves or levels adjustment and layer mask with gradient tool. Martin Evening gives details in his 'PS For Photographers' book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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