Jump to content

mamiya 7 + light meters


ardenpress

Recommended Posts

I don't know which is best, but my Sekonic L-508 is certainly versatile. Unfortunately, it broke during a 5-week trip around northern Norway-Sweden and the Lofoten Islands in 2003. I limped along with the Mamiya 7II's internal meter, but promptly got a Spotmeter F when I returned home -- I mostly use only spotmetering anyway. (The Sekonic was also fixed.) I'm now preparing for a 6-10 week trip to northern India, and think I'll take my chances with the Sekonic again. It's really nice to have an all-in-one instrument and even if the Minoltas are more durable (I have a 15 year old Autometer IIIF as well that still works like new) the M7II's meter does make for a bare-bones backup. And what's the likelihood of it crapping out on me *again*? (Knock on wood...)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a Sekonic 408 most of the time. Also Pentax digital spotmeter, but that is a recent acquisition; usually the 408 (predecessor of the 508 mentioned above) is adequate. I really like getting both incident and spot (albeit not a one-degree spot) in the same device.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all, Mamiya 7 and Xpan metering is handled differently.

One is TTL (xpan), and the other is not!

 

Secondly, you could not really go wrong with any decent spot meter or an incident meter (I do not know what you meant by lightmeter). The basic question of ergonomics and accuracy come to be the main differentiators. And the price.

 

I love to use Minolta Spotmeter F, and Minolta Flash meter IV.

And I have used Pentax/Gossen/Sekonic meters too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a more complicated question than it would appear from the start. If you use the panorama adapter on the M7 to take panorama shots like the xpan then the metering needs are the same as the xpan.

Now I never have taken wider than 96 degree landscapes so I can only say that you want to be able to do more than just average the total scene as what you will get using the cameras averaging meter. You will want to take a contrast reading and a spot reading of the main point of interest. This means using a spot meter. You can use the in camera meter for averaging reading this will save you time and is convenient. If you intend only to do panoramic landscapes with the cameras then get a spot meter. If you are going to switch the xpan to 35mm framming and the M7 to 6x7 framming and use it for closer work than incident reading will give you the best exposure info for getting the most accurate camera settings. In this case I would get a multifunctional meter. Spot only I like used Sekonic L-778 or Pentax digital spot, both do 1 degree and the Sekonic also does 3 degree and flash. For the all-purpose meter I like the Sekonic L-558

it does everything incident, spot, reflective, flash and is probably the only meter you will every need unless you find its size a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...