B&W outdoor nudes

[picturetaker607]

Hello

 

I have photographed nudes in the sun a couple times. I seem to overexpose the

negitive by a stop or so. The highlights seem to burn out Does anyone have any

suggestions on how to meter a body correctly so one gets detail in the

highlights and shadows? thanx

[wolf_rainer_schmalfuss]

Hello Mattthew!

 

The best is using a handheld light meter! Use metering with the white dome of the light meter (light measuring) into the direction from the nude model to the direction to the camera. THis is the mostly used light measuring method by professional photographers.

 

Regards

[ben conover]

Incident metering, but if you know you usually over expose then bracket and underexpose, problem solved.

 

Cheers.

[jay_de_fehr]

Hi Matthew.

 

If your highlights are burning out, you're overdeveloping. You might also be overexposing, but not necessarily so. Caucasion skin in direct sunlight can be very bright, especially the highlights, so controlling contrast is critical. A single incident reading will not indicate the illuminance range of the scene, which would determine development. If you're consistently burning out highlights, it's a safe bet that your overdeveloping for the scenes you're shooting. To reduce contrast, reduce development and increase exposure. Good luck.

 

Jay<div></div>

[chris_waller]

I suggest you down rate the film by a stop, as a starting point, and reduce development time by one-third. The attached scan is of Ilford Delta 100 at 40 ASA and devved in Rodinal 1:50 for 7 minutes.<div></div>

[mb81]

Take a meter reading off of the brightest side of the model, then open the lens up one stop.<div></div>

[david j.lee]

that is one very nice photograph mike. congratulations.

[profhlynnjones]

If you don't have a pretty powerful flash (Norman or Lumedyne) for flash fill to deal with the 8:1 lighting ratio normally found in a sun shiny day, then you'll need to reduce the contrast. Try this:in sunlight, TMY Tmax400, expose at ASA 200 develop D76 full strength 68F for 5.5 minkutes, or Plus X Pan at ASA50 develop in D76 full strength for 4 minutes at 68F.

 

Lynn

[picturetaker607]

Thanks for all you responces. I did meter off the sunny side and opened up a stop. I also underdeveloped the negitives by a minute. seems to be alright. when I scan the print, I will post it.

 

The other printing trick I have been shown and tried using VC paper is:

use a low contrast filter to determine the exposure for the highlights.

then use a high contrast filter and determine the exposure for the shaddows. Then make a double exposure, one with the low contrast filter and one with the high contrast filter. The print will come out correctly. has anyone tried this?

[jay_de_fehr]

Mathew, if you're exposing the entire print to both filters, there is an intermediate filter that will produce identical results with a single exposure. If, on the other hand, you're exposing selectively, you've discovered one of the most powerful benefits of VC papers. Good luck.

 

Jay

[picturetaker607]

Jay I was exposing the entire image with both filters. Do you mean if I use a 3 filter instead of a 2 and a 4 to make a double exposure it would be the same

[bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa]

Matthew: you can burn with a lesser contrast filter, as usually is done for easier burn. You can print most of the image with one contrast setting (and dodge at the same time, if you want), and then burn with a lower contrast filter.

[jay_de_fehr]

Hi Matthew.

 

Yes, that's what I mean. Your paper doesn't care whether the exposures are separated, or mixed together, the end result is the same, unless you expose selectively, as Dan describes. There is a lot of confusion on this point, exacerbated by a lot of misinformation propogated by respected printers, but it is, in the end, a simple matter of physics, easily proven with a few simple tests. Good luck.

 

Jay

[picturetaker607]

Thanks Jay. I will scan a photo and post it this week