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Tilt shift lenses on a 20D


digidurst

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Hi everyone! I hope the holiday season finds you in a merry mood!

 

I would appreciate any and all input regarding tilt shift lenses, specifically when used on a

Canon 20D. Canon offers 3 focal lenghts to choose from: 24mm, 45mm, and 90mm.

Which one would be best for table-top, still life work?

 

I have also come across some Russian lenses (offered by Kiev)... has anyone tried these?

Like them? Hate them? For the cost savings, they are certainly tempting!

 

Thanks in advance for the input :-)

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The 90mm will give you more space betwene your subject and the camera/lens -- this is

useful for lighting. Also the front to back perspective rendering may be less "distorted".

here is the URL for Canon's info on the 90mm:

 

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/controller?

act=ModelDetailAct&fcategoryid=156&modelid=7329

 

if you go to that link and click on: specifications you'll see that the cloest focusing

distance is 0.5m or 1.6 ft. the 45mm TSE lens focuses down to 0.4m or 1.3 ft.

 

Whehter or not these distances will work for you and what you'll be photographing is a

answer you'll have to work out for yourself.

 

But the TSE lenses especially with regard to product photography don't take the place of a

view camera that has ful land independent movements on the lens and film plane. A little

over a year ago I worked with a Canon EOS 1Ds attached to the Cambo Ultima 35 view

camera chassis. The Ultima 35 has full view camera movements and you can use every

thing from enlarging lenses to view camera lenses, including one's optimized for digital

photography.

 

In the studio this system worked best with the camera tethered to a computer so you

could examine the captured image on your monitor. I found this to be very useful as you

could really see into the image. It was also very useful because DSLR (and 35mm SLR)

camera view finders are simply not designed to work with a lens that may be tilted, shifted

and swung with relation to the film/sensor plane resulting in an image that in the the

view finder gets very dark once you move the lens axis away from centered and

perpendicular to the film/sensor plane.

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Fascinating Ellis! Boy, when a girl asks for details - she gets details! Thanks!

 

Of course, now I have more questions... Number 1, how did you attach a dslr to the view

camera? Can you do that with any view camera or just the Cambos? 2nd question - is it

possible to shoot film (in the film holder) while having the dslr attached?

 

Again, I appreciate you time and expertise on this!

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<I>Number 1, how did you attach a dslr to the view camera? Can you do that with any

view camera or just the Cambos? 2nd question - is it possible to shoot film (in the film

holder) while having the dslr attached?</I><P>

1.) the camera attaches to the function carrier of the Ultima 1 and in place of the

groundglass frame. You specify which make of camera (Canon in your case) when you

order the

Ultima 35 and the camera bellows comes with a Canon EOS lens mount that attaches

directly to your DSLR or 35mm SLR body.<P>2.) No. You'd have to buy the 4x5 (or 6x9cm)

format kit if you

wantto use medium or large format film.

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I did a little web searching and found the Ultima you were talking about. Very cool device

(with a very cool price tag)! Not gonna happen anytime soon. But I do appreciate your

making me aware of the possibilities, Ellis. I might wind up with a LF yet but in the

meantime, I'd still like to get user's input on tilt shift lenses.

 

Cheers!

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Ellen,<p>I use the 24mm TSE lens for table top work on a 10D and 20D and find it very functional. I use it for photographing table settings, stemware and other reflective objects that being able to move slightly off center removes my reflection from shiny objects. It also helps keep plates looking round instead of oval.<p>On the opposite end it can also be used to elongate or intentionally distort.<p>Of course the big benefit is architecture. Perspective control with a much smaller package than a view camera or flexibody.<p>Hope this helps.
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I have the 24mm and 45mm TS-E. It all depends on your working distance and preferred viewing angle. One thing to consider is that the 24mm and 45mm TS-E can be used with a 1.4x or 2x teleconverter. However, the 1.4x is said to deliver better results with less image degradation. I don't care too much for the 90mm TS-E because that focal length is a bit tight, and gets even tighter on a 20D. The 24mm and 45mm are more versatile focal lengths, and become even more so when you throw a teleconverter into the mix.
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I have the TS24, originally purchased for use on my -1v for townscape and architecture. I rarely use the tilt capability, just shift. On my 20D it works fine but corresponds to a 38mm lens on full-frame, so it does a rather different job. I wonder if we will ever see a TS-E-S 15mm? Without knowing more about what scale of table-top or still-life work you are doing, it is hard to know which of the TS24 and TS45 would be better, but I guess the TS90 would be too long. As pointed out, the TS lenses all work with all Canon Extenders, the only limitation being that since they do not have the extra pins to recognise the presence of an extender, the aperture and focal length are reported as if the extender where not there. TS24x2 is probably not a sensible combination, and TS45x2 may also not be, but I know that TS24x1.4 works well.
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