Yashica 124aGain

[tom_smith15]

I'm really in a rut with this camera. After trying so hard with it,

I've had rolls of unfocussed blurred images. I've got several blanks

from hitting the shutter when trying to find it (lens cap on) and

didn't know how to cock the shutter without forwarding the film roll.

At f3.5, I can't see anything is sharp or even in focus. It's just

soft and terrible. I couldn't focus on the screen because it's too

dark, and cleaning the mirror didn't help either. Admittedly I wasn't

looking through the viewfinder closely when I pressed the shutter, and

I wasn't focussing close up since I was trying not to get arrested

when shooting.

 

I might have one or two shots which are reasonably sharp, but in the

low-light of winter, they weren't exceptional. In the bright summer,

it was okay and I had some sharp images. But now (gloom and doom

weather) the price of a bright screen is too much. Should I sell it

and trade up for a Rollei with a Tessar or a Planar lens? The Yashica

is a gorgeous camera - it's in absolutely mint condition and no flaws.

I really like it, but it's become more of a handbag lately. Even the

leather is in great condition.

 

But I just can't get a shot from it :(

[jim_mcbride]

Tom: TLR viewfinders are not famed for brightness. If you are not seeing enough

brightness through an

f3.5 lens, then an f2.8 lens probably isn't going to do much more for you. It may be that a

TLR just isn't the right camera for you. If you're looking for a really bright focusing image,

perhaps

you would be happier with a 35mm SLR and a 50mm f1.4 lens. If you are fixated on

medium format, you might be happier with a medium format rangefinder like a Mamiya 6

or 7. You might even be happier with a small digital camera.

[tom_smith15]

"You might even be happier with a small digital camera."

 

Jim, you just killed off all hope I've had of being a photographer.

[kaiyen]

Tom,

 

Have you tested the lens/focusing mechanism for accuracy? Set something up that is 10 feet away. Turn the focus knob to 10', snap a shot. Then examine the viewfinder and adjust it so that the object is as sharp as possible (theoretically should be the same, but that's part of the test). snap a shot. Examine the results - if they're sharp, then the lens and focus is fine.

 

You say that you're shooting in dark situations - the viewfinders simply don't work all that well if the subject isn't nicely illuminated (at least with some contrast to the background, anyway). Have you tried zone-focusing?

 

As for tripping the shutter accidentally - why are you having so much difficultly finding it? It took me a little while to get my handling of the camera down - put hand here, not there, etc - but once I did, I didn't have problems.

 

TLR's are good for some things, not great for others. Like all cameras, there is a give and take.

 

allan

[mark_l]

Hi Tom,

 

I just recently began shooting medium format using a couple Yashicas. It took some time getting used to, but coming from shooting manual Canons in 35mm, the transition wasn't too hard...mostly a Left/Right reversal issue. A thing that helped was using the flip down magnifying glass after composing to check focus. Granted, it still is a bit hit and miss in the evening, but for most times of the day, it works fine. I would suggest that you take time to be methodical in your shooting so that you don't skip frames or cock the shutter too early (mistakes I have made too).

 

I'm not sure if you're trying to shoot street photos or whatnot, but take some time and work out a routine. Look at a potential shot, wind (which will also cock the shutter), compose using the whole waist level finder, focus accurately using the flip down magnifier, and then shoot. Wait til the next potential shot and repeat.

 

Everytime I get the notion that I need a 'better' camera, I look at my photos and see if its really my composition/lighting/technique that is really at issue. Hope this helps!

[cpj]

For Heaven's sake, borrow or rent a Rolleiflex with a Planar or Xenotar lens--far superior

to the early 1950's Tessar and Xenar lenses--and get one with a replacement Maxwell

Focusing Screen which is 8 to 10X brighter than the original screen, all the way to the

corners. That will solve all your problems.

 

If you have a choice, get a Rollei E-2 or later (1960) with the removeable focusing hood as

this makes changing the focusing screen a 30 second job. But any E model can be

retrofitted by Maxwell (who is in Georgia) or Harry Fleenor in California who repairs Rollei's

and sells Maxwell screens.

 

A new screen is literally like night and day. When the E model Rollei was $395 new

(1956) the Yashicamat came out a couple of years later at $79.95. Does that tell you

anything????? (I remember; I'm that old and I still have the first Rollei E Model I ever

bought--cost a month's pay back then. I bought that Rollei 45 years ago and used it

professionally as a newspaper photographer for 10 years in rain, sleet, snow and far below

zero weather. It's still going strong.

 

(We used to use flashbulbs; I remember my first strobe with over-the-shoulder battery

pack. At one 3-alarm fire at zero degrees it got coated with ice. I asked a photographer

from another paper to turn it off as I couldn't reach the rotary switch on the battery pack.

He touched the switch, jumped about 5 feet into the air as the capacitor discharged about

10,000 volts through his soaking wet hands. Now those were the days . . .)

 

Good luck.

[james_lai]

Tom, I second Allan's suggestion to check the focus. It is quite possible that your viewing lens is not quite aligned with your taking lens.

 

As for the finder, I agree it can be hard to tell what's in focus, especially in low light. The pop-up magnifier helps quite a bit here.

 

As for trading up to a Rollei, if you're not having much luck with the Yashica, I don't think a Rollei will make that much difference. The Yashinon optics may not be the equal of the Rollei's, but they're pretty good (assuming your lenses are properly aligned).

[clark_yerrington]

use the flip-up close focusing lens, wear a hat or something in the sun to shade the screen, and set at f8 or smaller opening.

[mtk]

Hi Tom! HANG IN THERE BUDDY! I am on my second Yashica TLR (MatEM).

I absolutely love these guys! I second most of the above postings, so what my opinion is might be redundant. Run a test roll or two. What film are you using? Are you shooting in broad daylight? Are you using sunny 16 rule or a light meter for shooting? I use the magnifier on mine almost every time. The Yashinon lens is great and should provide very nice results..Have you inspected your lenses closely for fungus/crud/etc? The taking lens is actually very easy to clean if you know what you are doing. Just remember, this is supposed to be fun! It does take a roll or three to get the hang of this stuff. I am sure some more experienced TLR shooters will disagree with me, but this camera is not a 35mm and MF cameras in general cause you to slow down and compose and think about just about every aspect of how you are taking a picture. In time, I am sure you will be just fine with it, just enjoy learning. One other suggestion, have you tried using it on a tripod with a cable release? That really helps me. Enjoy! Mark

[mtk]

Tom, one other input. Hop on over to the classic camera forum here on photo net, pop off a posting similar to the one you have to Czab Jozsa (or get his email) I belive he shoots with Yashica TLR's and I am sure he will be able to help! Mark

[conrad_hoffman]

Lots of excellent advice above. I want to suggest something along the lines of "focus more carefully", but there's more to it than that. You absolutely have to use the magnifier, and you have to train your brain to home in on finer features. Concentrate on something with fine lines, edges, or a pattern. Don't go back and forth with the focus dozens of times; go through the point of best focus twice, maybe three times at maximum. Next, what shutter speeds are you using? With dim winter light, you should use 400 speed film. Keep the shutter speed as high as possible. IMO, MF images have the smooth tonal quality that shows camera shake in the worst way. If those techniques don't work, here's another way. Learn to judge distance and use the scale. Put a good hand grip on the thing, preset the focus by scale, and use the sports finder. Don't laugh- it works. I used to shoot many a basketball game that way. BTW, I don't think there's a way to recock the shutter, so just learn where the release is.

[classcamera]

Hello all,

 

Tom, the suggestions to get a Rolleiflex Model E is an excellent one, however if you are on a budget, and need a good bright finder, and fast accurate focus, why not trade in the yashica for a Tessar Ikoflex. Ikoflex cameras have the brightest view screens ever put into a TLR, better even than Maxwell's products. Believe it or not but the engineers (and the tool and die department) at Zeiss Ikon, may have had a leg up on Beatie, or Maxwell. The focus on all Ikoflex cameras is the same and is an exceptionally fast ratio, form 1m to infinity is approximately 120 degrees of turn of the focus knob, for a Rollei, or Yashica it would be nearly a full turn.

 

On most models of Ikoflex the shutter is tensioned separately form the advancing of the film, and the picture taking button cannot be depressed unless the shutter is tensioned. On the final two models of the Ikoflex, the IIa and Favorite, the shutter is tensioned as the film is advanced just as on a Rollei, or Yashica Mat.

 

Probably the biggest drawback to the Ikoflex line of cameras is that most have a relatively inexpensive Prontor shutter, which can be tricky (for most repair people, but I have mastered them) to get running properly, and the grease in the focus mechanism tends to harden up over time, and be expensive to have replaced.

 

Oh, one other thing, most Ikoflex's have the dirt cheap (but surprisingly good) Novar Anastigmat, and the Tessar cameras are much more sought after. I personally prefer a Zeiss camera with a Tessar to say a Rollei camera with a Tessar, because in all my shooting, I have discovered that Zeiss kept the best and sold the rest. With my Tessar Ikoflex II (third model) I can get good sharp images corner to corner at f:5.6!

 

Happy shooting,

Mark

[tom_smith15]

I've checked the negs and it can be rarely sharp, but isn't mostly. I have a hit rate of about 4 images/roll. This is my only portable camera I own.

 

I tried shooting Delta 3200. The waist-level viewing and quiet shutter makes it perfect for carrying around. There are a few shots I did with about 4 street lamps and the street lamps seem in focus but the image isn't sharp - it looks more grain and rough than I've seen from Delta 3200. With the naked eye, I can see it looks fuzzy.

 

That's right - street photography. I'm trying to shoot in the streets at night, preferably without looking too conspicious, but the rate I'm trying to focus, spending 20 seconds to get the focus point, people are starting to give me funny looks. My main prob. with this camera is that if I can't focus it at night, because I just can't see the image. I can press my head into the viewfinder to obscure the light, but it's still dark. Then it's not going to be much use to me unless I'm zone focussing and I've just totally missed. The flip magnifier doesn't want to come out and I don't have long fingernails to prise it!

 

I just reach for the Yashica and accidentally hit the shutter. I'm used to my shutters being on top of the camera, or on the front lens dial itself. Maybe I just need to be more careful, but I hold it by the base, with my left hand and accidentally click...

 

Where on earth am I going to 'borrow' a Rolleiflex?! I'd have to be on the verge of buying one. An aperture of f8 isn't much good at night - that's why I'm using Delta 3200. If I knew with confidence that I could shoot sharp at full aperture, I'd just be pushing HP5+ instead and using f3.5.

 

I've seen the Maxwell screen for $200; that's almost the cost of the Yashica. If the Rollei E is that much more expensive, I might just give up and try and use my dad's Hasselblad more (I won't break it - honest)

 

Mark - this is my 7th roll from this camera. I misrated 2 whole rolls of ISO 100 at 400 because I forgot what film I had in after a long stint in autumn playing with the monorail; another 2 rolls of 3200 misrated because the ISO dial didn't go that far and I couldn't remember, thinking I had left ISO 400 film in it. Then I decided to start using only ISO 3200 so that I would remember the film speed and this is what I've got :(

 

Again Mark - my Yashica 124G is in mint and beautiful condition with absolutely no flaws. Even the meter works so I don't carry an accessory. The exposures look spot on, so it's not all hopeless. This is what's so frustrating about it! It's got the makings of a catwalk ,but the images look like a Volga.

 

That's a suggestion - maybe I should shoot with a cable release. I don't have a tripod small enough to fit the Yashica - my tripod has a large bush for the monorail. I don't remember seeing a cable socket so I'll check to see.

 

I'm not going to sell it this side of Christmas, but I'll look around for an Ikoflex ?? and a Rollei E if I haven't pulled a single pic I'm happy with. Then I'll consider trading it in.

 

If anyone can point me to sharp crisp images from this camera I'll be really pleased and ready to try it one more time (with feeling!).

[paul_sauer]

Hey Todd,

 

I tried shooting with a Ricohflex TLR. Granted it's no Rollei. It's not even a

Yashicamat. But for my style of shooting, I can't focus fast enough or get used to the

inverted view.

 

Used first-generation Pentax 645s are cheap these days. I find the SLR experience

much quicker. It's not much bigger than a Nikon F5.

 

You can probably sell your Yashica for a good chunk of dough on Ebay. People are

buying the things up these days.

[james_lai]

Tom, you don't have to pry up the magnifier with your fingers. If you look at the top of the hood (the part that's at the front of the camera when you open the hood), you'll see that the center part of it folds down (this forms the "sports finder"). Just push it in slightly and the magnifier will pop up.

 

From what you say, it really does seem to me that your lenses need to be aligned ("collimated"). Do a focus check or take the camera to a repair shop and ask them to check it.

 

When I first got my 124, my first roll of film came out slightly fuzzy. I paid extra attention to the focussing on the second roll, but still got slightly fuzzy shots. Now, I may be a mediocre photographer at best, but after the second roll I knew my focussing couldn't be that bad. I had my camera checked and sure enough, there was some misalignment. The repair tech thought my camera might have taken a knock on the front plate, even though there was no sign of any impact evident.

[conrad_hoffman]

The photo "Running Water" in my folder was taken with a Mat-124, and it's plenty sharp at 16x20. The tombstone was taken with an old Autocord, and I'd have to say the lens on the Autocord is slightly better than the Mat-124.

 

Here's another trick for street stuff. Pick your subject, then rotate your gaze to some other object at the same distance, but say 90 degrees away. Focus on that at your leisure, then when the "decisive moment" comes, turn and shoot. That's how I took the shot of the guy and his dogs, also in the folder.

[kaiyen]

Tom,

What aperture _are_ you shooting at? I think you said that you're stopping down, which leads me to 2 questions. First, why would you miss on zone focusing? You should have enough in focus to produce sharp images. Second, is it possible that you're tilting the camera to focus, then letting it settle down again before firing the shutter? That would result in slight inaccuracy in the focus.

 

Again, check out the accuracy of that focus knob. With night-time street photography,I'd be just zone-focusing with my mat 124, and I can get tack sharp focus with my WLF without the magnifier (I got lucky in that the mirror and viewing lens on mine are incredibly clean).

 

allan

[tom_smith15]

Paul - thanks for the recommendation. I haven't used an SLR except in college...something about having to raise it to the eye maybe. I paid a huge chunk of dough for it ($280 or thereabouts with 2 filters). I probably paid a lot but I wanted one that was definitely working.

 

 

"Tom, you don't have to pry up the magnifier with your fingers. If you look at the top of the hood (the part that's at the front of the camera when you open the hood), you'll see that the center part of it folds down (this forms the "sports finder"). Just push it in slightly and the magnifier will pop up."

 

Duh!!! I don't believe it! Thanks so much James! I never realised this existed! I've been shooting it wondering why the camera was so badly designed! Double duh!

 

Sounds like you guys are all getting sharp images. I wonder if it's my technique. That shot of running water looks sharp Conrad. 'Ye living men....' has the kind of sharpness I've been dreaming of...

 

A lot of the night shots I did were all done on f3.5 - 4.5 -5.6. I did turn the dial the wrong way when I guessed whether people were coming into focus and got it wrong. I probably look like Quasimodo with an IQ of 1 trying to strain for one minute trying to get the focus point. Mine is very clean - but I'm starting to think it's not the easiest tool to use for night photographs....

 

More to chew on..

[robert_grasing]

Tom, do you know about the Yashica sports finder? Just continue to push down that panel that pops up the magnifier until it locks down over the finder. Then you look through the small square hole and sight through the now large, open frame. A sort of poorman`s pentaprism. Very handy, and reasonably accurate, especially at infinity. For closer distances, you have to focus first of course. And remember the parallax. There`s a small button that will pop the panel back up to the normal position.

 

My Yashica 124G focuses well past infinity, even after I had it serviced by Yashica here in Tokyo. I have to actually focus on distant subjects, not just turn the focus knob to infinity and assume it`s in focus. Perhaps yours is that way also.

 

I replaced the focusing screen in mine with one from a Bronica SQA. This required filing off a locating tab from the screen. Much, much brighter and easier to focus. The Yashica tech who overhauled the camera noted that the screen was different but that focus was still accurate. You should be able to find a used SQA screen very cheap.

 

By the way, the focusing lens is f/2.8, not f/3.5 like the taking lens.

[classcamera]

Several things do come to mind that may be affecting image quality.

Not all lenses are created equal, lens makers often assemble slight mismatches to increase production yields, and then adjust the lens to the camera, by shimming the lens board, shutter, or both. Often times a very well intentioned repair man forgets (or just ignores) the location of shims, and reassembles the camera slightly out of focus. Then when the repairman checks the focus of the camera he stops it down to say f:8, which makes the focus appear perfect, however when you go out and shoot wide open there is an obvious problem.

 

Earlier in this thread, I mentioned an Ikoflex as a good alterative to your Yashica, and I still stand by that recommendation however, before purchasing a new camera, I would suggest finding a camera repair shop that could check the focus of your cameras. It could be a simple fix. You could also check the focus yourself, buy placing a piece of paper, such as a post-it note, over the film plane, lock the focus open with a cable release, and point the camera at some distant street lights (a block away is minimum) and see if they do indeed focus to a point. I have also used this very technique with the moon, and had excellent results. Oh, one thing I forgot to mention is the diaphragm needs to be wide open, and the focus set to infinity, and you should move the camera so the lights project to the corners as well as the center.

 

If everything is okay, then perhaps the problem is with your technique; in which case I recommend that you shoot about 25 rolls of film through your camera during the day, so you can shoot reflexively. One last thing, if your slow shooting is arousing your subjects suspicions, try pre focusing on a likely location. Also, since the TLR design is now very uncommon, most people do not recognize it as a camera, so they should stay relaxed. There are also a whole variety of techniques, like shooting under your arm to really hide the camera, check the camera manual for all the sneaky ways to hold the camera.

 

Mark