Franka Solida questions

[janice_mackay]

Hi all,

 

I acquired my first folder today, a Franka Solida Jr. (the Agfa I

mentioned recently is still to come).

 

I haven't been able to find any sort of instruction manual online

for the Franka, but was just checking it out - it opened out with a

definite click, and it took me a while to locate the 'release' to

close it again - I didn't want to break something by forcing it, and

was writing a 'help' message to the list when I figured it out!

 

The camera only has two apertures, f6.3 and f11 with sunny and

cloudy symbols, but I can't see how to change them. Shutter speeds

are B, 25 and 75 and appear to be working well. Is it likely to be

shutter-priority?

 

I'm looking forward to seeing some 6x6 negs, but will do some more

reading about old folders (checking for light leaks etc) before I

put a film in it.

 

All advice and helpful suggestions welcome. :-)

 

Thanks,

 

Janice M. (NZ)

[pensacolaphoto]

Hello Janice,

I recommend that you use a lens hood on the lens. You may have to improvise until you manage to get a lens hood that somehow stays put in place. Flare will be bad without a lens hood. I have the Solida Jr. somewhere among my cameras. There is a lever that allows you tro switch between 6.3 and 11 [to the best of my recollection]. Most likley, there was no shutter priority available at the time they made this camera. If I find the camera, I will post what I know about it.

[janice_mackay]

Thanks Raid, I've found the lever - its quite small and well hidden beneath the lens, would be difficult for anyone with large fingers to operate! Seems to be working great though.

 

Am I likely to have a problem with flare no matter which direction I'm pointing the lens? I'm sure flare and lens hoods have been discussed here before, so will see what I can find in the archives.

 

Another question: There's a small button (?) on the back of the case that slides from side to side, to open or close a red circular window. From what I've read, this is so you can see the frame numbers when winding on the film. Do I need to close it to avoid light leaks? I've never used 120 film before (not to mention old folders) so this is a learning curve. :-)

 

Regards

Janice M. (NZ)

[pensacolaphoto]

Hi Janice,

I have been closing the window after advancing the film just to be on the safe side. Before putting any film in the camera, use a Q-tip with some cleaning fluid to clean the window very well, else you will not be able to see the numbers on the back of the film paper.

Flare can occur even when pointing the lens away from sources of light since light can reach the lens from the side. You also will get better color saturation with a lens hood. The lens of the Jr. is small, so you need to look either for an adapter for filters that can be used to fit snugly around the lens and then use with it a lens hood, or find an older small lens hood (by Waltz or similar) and use a rubber band to add friction so that the lens hood will stay put. Most likely, you will get better results with B&W film than with color due to the age of the lens.

[charles_stobbs3]

Unless you can find orthochromatic film (insensitive to red), always close the cover over the red window when you're not winding film. All other films will display the frame number on the negatives (and prints) from the light going through the paper backing and exposing that circular area.

[francois_gauthier]

Welcome to the world of full manual camera. And i don't mean Nikon FM2 like. I mean absolutely nothing is automated or even assisted.

 

Film advance is a knob, not a lever. Check the window for number only when you advance the film and keep it close all other times. The shutter has to be cocked (usually a small lever on the lens) and there is no multiple exposure prevention; just take the habit of advancing before or after each shot.

 

No 'assistance': you have to guess the distance and exposure or use separates devices. Learn sunny 16 rule for that (type sunny 16 in this site search window).

 

This specific model was an entry level and is limited to 2 apertures and 2 speeds, so stick with very tolerant film like Ilford FP4+ where it will be at 75 anf F11 most of the times. Be ware that F6.3 will show much less quality and 25 should be use only when you are steady (like with a tripod or finding some support).

 

Most of these folders share the same design, so look for a manual for a similar model on free internet sites like butkus.

 

What is always puzzling at first is how to close it. On Franka, there is a tab under the lens unlike most other brands. Very little seems familiar when you come from the modern 35mm world.

 

Finally, since filters and hoods are hard to find, avoid sunshine in front of you (bright contrasty lights hitting the lens produce more flare than modern MC lenses)

[pensacolaphoto]

Here is a link to J&C Photo. You can get for $1.19 a roll of B&W 120 film. I would get 5 rolls to start out with, and then shoot happily with you Jr. camera.

 

http://www.jandcphoto.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=7

[mike_elek]

One of the things you'll need is a reputable lab to process and print your film. Once you have that, then everything else is simple.

 

This sounds like an entry-level model. Nothing wrong with that, and in fact might be perfect as you're an entry-level folder user. That's a good thing, by the way.

 

Everything is manual. You must decide shutter speed and aperture. You must set focus by guessing distance from the subject to the film plane.

 

The quickest way to check for light leaks is to unfold the lens bed, open the back and peer down into the bellows while holding the camera over a light bulb. Move it around a bit.

 

I haven't heard of too many complaints about Frankas being prone to holes in bellows. I think Agfa is the leader in that category.

 

Make sure you have a takeup spool. Then load it up and go out and have some fun.

[janice_mackay]

Thanks all for the great advice.

 

I'm not in the States so won't be dealing with B&H, but have a good mail order place here that stocks a variety of 120 films. I will find out if I can get 120 colour neg processed locally, if so will get hold of some Fuji Superia as recommended - I use the 35mm version already. Otherwise will order some B&W - I do my own B&W processing so that's not a problem. I'm used to loading 35mm film manually but I understand 120 is a bit different, so tips will be appreciated. Yes, there is a takeup spool in the camera.

 

I've been using fully-manual cameras for some time - Pentax K1000's and a Voigtlander Vito CL - so my learning curve is not nearly so steep as it might have been! (I'm not familiar with the Nikon FM2 Francois mentioned). I have to guess the distance on the Vito but it has a good meter. The Franka came with a rangefinder which I'm sure I'll find helpful, and I have recently acquired a couple of older light meters to use with these classic cameras.

 

The shutter doesn't appear to need cocking on this model (Franka). The challenge will be remembering to wind on between exposures. :-)

 

Janice M. (NZ)

[Brian]

Janice, I've got a Franka Solida, though it's the swanky version with a f3.5 Ennagon lens and a Prontor shutter, but it still gives me your problem with wind-on. I have a little card folded in two, wedged in the hot shoe. One of four possible messages is visible - wound on/cocked, wound on/not cocked, not wound/not cocked, not wound/cocked (the last being an unlikely situation). I remember to change the card every time I do anything (I hope) so I should get no blanks or doubles (though strangely I still do). I just remembered you don't have to cock the shutter so you only need two messages...

[paulh]

Hi Janice,

 

You realise this camera will be the first of many more folders?

 

As others have said, try some colour print film or B+W for starters. I wouldn't get anything faster than ISO 100 as you are limited in top speed. If you can't find a proper lens hood, you can try and fashion something, or adpat slip on hood from a digital camera or video camera. Another thing you can do is rotate the camera so that the lens door is towards the sun (even upside down - I do this with a little Minox 35, and it works fine).

 

I have gotten into the habit of only winding when I am ready to take the picture. So, I compose, open the canmera, wind, cock shutter and shoot. Shield the ruby window for the film counting when you are winding from bright light (and we both know how intense the sun can be in NZ!)

 

Check for light leaks by opening the camera back, extend the lens and look into the bellows with a strong lightsource outside. Another way is to fire a flash inside the bellows while in a dark room. Also check the ruby window "door" by closing it, then shine a bright light directly at the window - check for light leaking round the edges.

 

You may also like to try some Efke 50 or 25 B+W film - this has a wide esposure latitude, and I was very pleased with the 25 in my rather more upmarket Franka Rollfix 2 (6x9, with a full range of speeds all the way to 1/500th!!)

 

Paul (a kiwi in Amsterdam)

[janice_mackay]

Thanks Brian and Paul.

All the practical suggestions are much appreciated - this forum is great!

 

Paul wrote:

"You realise this camera will be the first of many more folders?"

Hmmm, I now have the Agfa Billy and there is an Isolette due to arrive any day... but my next step is to get hold of some 120 film and make some pictures. :-)

 

 

Janice M. (NZ)

[pensacolaphoto]

I also use a Franka Solida III with a 2.8 Schneider Radionar lens and a rangefinder. Such cameras can be lots of fun and actualy can give you beautiful photos. If you take photos of nature, I would put the camera on a tripod [and use a lens shade].

[william_king4]

My first folder I recently purchased is a Franka Solida Jr. I also am having trouble figuring out how to close it up... Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

William King