Steel reel for processing 120 type

[ruslan safin]

How do you do, friends! I have bought a stainless tank for developing

120 film with 2 steel reels. My first experience was not a success -

I spoiled one film and one frame on the other. I loaded incorrectly.

Then I figured out what moght had gone wrong - I did not check it

each time I fed new length of the film for flatness to the spiral. At

least it seems to me so. Could you advise how to do it

professionally? Do pro use steel reels and tanks or plastic ones way

better? Thank you!

[jimvanson]

See the reels pictured <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A10i"><b>here</b></a>. Dozens of my photo class students have loaded those reels correctly the first time they tried them.<P>They fit in Paterson or AP Photo's Plastic tanks.<P>And of coarse they are adjustable for 35mm or 120/220.

[Ed_Ingold]

I use stainless steel reels exclusively, for both 35mm and 120. With practice, they are much easier to load than plastic reels, and can be loaded even if slightly damp. Plastic tends to craze with use, and I suspect tend to retain chemicals as a result. I prefer s/s tanks for the same reasons, and the heat transfer is better (I use a tempered water bath for temperature control.)

 

The key word is "practice." You need to sacrifice a roll to practice in daylight, then in the dark (or a changing bag). Once the film is cross-threaded (so to speak) it is nearly impossible to load it smoothly, without further damage. So the goal should be to do it the right way, the first time, every time.

 

The loading assist plates are nearly useless, and much harder to use than by hand. They also tend to scratch film, and 120 is particularly susceptible to scratching. Don't waste time here.

 

I start by removing the film from the paper backing. I hold the reel in my left hand and pull the paper with the right. By keeping my fingers between the film and paper, the film rolls up tightly. At the end, I peel the tape carefully from the paper backing, and fold it over the end of the film. (120 film tears easily, and is likely to do so if you peel the tape from the film. At best, you risk causing stress-fogging with the additional handling)

 

I start loading with the taped end (the film is easy to reverse, but that's just another step). It's not necessary or desirable to use the film clip on the reel. It's too hard to curve the film smoothly out of the clip, and invariably leads to stress-fogging or cross-threading. Insert the film so that it aligns with the beginning of the spiral, center the film from the ends of the reel with the thumb and middle finger, and make sure it is not crimped or folded across it's width.

 

Hold the film in the left hand, cupping it slightly between the thumb and forefinger, and holding the curled film back with the little finger (in the ends of the "tube" or on the face of the film).

 

Turn the reel with the right hand. Hold the film at the center for a turn or two, then it's no longer necessary. The film should enter the reel smoothly and quietly. If you hear or feel excessive scraping, the film has too much tension or is not entering the reel straight. You will know if there is any cross-threading, and need to backup and repair the loading should that occur.

 

I find my hands sweat in a changing bag, and stick to the film. It is essential that the film move smoothly through your left hand. The problem is easily solved by using cotton gloves.

[richard_cochran]

<cite>

Do pro use steel reels and tanks or plastic ones way better?</cite>

<p>

Different pros have different preferences. Some like plastic, but

there are plenty who find steel easier to work with. I certainly

wouldn't say that plastic ones are "way better". In particular,

plastic reels are nearly impossible to load when damp, and

they deteriorate with age and use much more than steel reels.

In the professional darkrooms I've seen, where hand-loaded

small tanks are used, steel reels and tanks outnumber

plastic ones, but not by a huge margin.

<p>

I've been using steel reels for quite awhile. The last time I got

one loaded improperly was in 1978. Most people mess up one

or two rolls as they first get aquainted with the technique,

but once you learn how to load one, you'll never forget, and

you'll find the steel reels fast and easy. I'll agree with virtually

everything Edward has suggested.

[steven_clark]

The trick seems to be find the right balance of how much you bend the film and how much pressure you move it with so that it fits into the reel to where you're winding it on, but still gets flattened and spread back out where it hits the spiral at the point you're winding it on. At least that seemd to be the trick on 135. To be honest I only used it once after some pracatice in light, but I seemed to be able to get the film on pretty reliably, if not all that fast.

[kymtman]

take the film that you ruined and practice, practice, practice (with you eyes closed of course)

[dave_cheng1]

If the 120 stainless steel reels you got is generic no name brand

you want to make sure they are not bent or distorted. A slight bent

or out of shape will make them impossible to load films. This is especially important for 220 reels. I found Hewes reels especially

220 reels are precision made and are very easy to succeed. I first

did not beliebe Hewes to be much different from cheap reels until

I failed to load a 220 roll to my cheap 220 reel. Then I bought one

Hewes 220 reel. Discovered that it is heaven and hell difference.

I now use only JOBO reels as I have a JOBO processor now.

[kelly_flanigan1]

Here I use Nikor reels; for 35mm; 120; and even have a 220 reel. As mentioned; a BENT REEL will be more problems. Be carefull with an unknown 2nd hand reel; with your valuable films.

[ruslan safin]

Thank you, friends!:) it is Konica brand. I will practice before feeding it with another film. Pleasure to be here each time!:)

[ben z]

I use Kindermann reels, have used them exclusively since I was in college. There's a plastic (or I have an old bench-type)jig that you put the reel on it (a stud goes thru the center of the reel, and there's also guide that curves the film) then the reels (stainless)have a prong on the outside edge that you take in your fingers and turn the reel like a crank. Takes about 10 seconds to load a 120 film and 20 seconds for a 35mm. Never had a misload in 30 years.