Followup to Macro Lens Question

[markboyer]

My thanks to everyone who reposnded to my request for help in

choosing a macro lens. A friend at work has the Vivitar and loaned

it to me; I've been playing with it all weekend. So here's my

followup question. How do you use a d__n macro lens?

 

I must have taken a 100 shots of the same flower, all with manual

settings. I've tried every possible aperture setting and I haven't

gotten one clear picture. Maybe the tiny stuff in the center was

somewhat in focus (but not much); everything else a blur. And I've

been using a tripod. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

mark

[bob_bell]

Since your not having any luck it sounds like, put the camera in full auto and take a shot. Then check the depth of field and remember what aperture it was at. Macro is very sensitive to DoF so I bet your aperture is too large making your DoF so thin the whole flower seems out of focus.

[ilia]

You need at least f16 to get "normal" depth-of-field macro shots. If your subject is completely still - just use long exposure times. If you subject is not completely still - you'll need flash.

[PuppyDigs]

DOF is only a few millimeters, so F16 to 32, mirror lockup, cable release and a heavy tripod are paramount. Also, try to position the lens as parallel to the flower as possible. Finally, I find manual focus more useful than AF for macro.

[eosdoc]

Practice different technique when shooting at macro distances.

For example, try using a macro slider for your camera.

<P>

You don't have a macro slider? Put your subject on a table on

a sheet of newspaper, and move the subject around to focus.

<P>

If you have an EOS 1V with the PC Link software, or a lens with

FTM (such as the EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro), you could try a

trap-focus technique. See:<BR>

<a title="EOS Documentation Project:

Almost Trap Focus" href=

http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=ATrapFocus

>http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=ATrapFocus</a>

[johnb]

Mark, I have used a Vivitar Macro lens and it really didn't do as you described. Put a photo up so we can see with our eyes, this way there is less guessing.

[markboyer]

OK, I'll put up some of the pictures.<div></div>

[les]

As was said before, the DOF is measured in milimeters at 1:1.

You need to have LOTS of light and use small apertures.

Also, positioning the object to keep most of it within the DOF (or close) helps.

 

Tripod, cable release, manual focus all help - but the pic below was hand-held on a sunny day with direct sunlight (not that it is a great pic, just to illustrate the above).<div></div>

[jbq]

Just an issue of depth-of-field. Macro with 35mm is tricky, smaller formats are more friendly.

[markboyer]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by 'smaller formats.'

[latham_portous]

That photo that you posted looks like it is not in sharp focus anywhere so I assume there was movement there (subject or camera). I have often had similar results at about 1:1 with only the slightest breeze. I went indoors and found that the results were alot better.

[panos_voudouris]

A tripod alone is not enough. Did you use a cable release for that shot? If not your finger shaked the camera while pushing the shutter button.

 

In general, in such high magnifications you are supposed to set the magnification you want and then move the camera (or the subject) until it is focused.

 

A cable release is necessary and if the camera has mirror lock-up use that too. If you do not have a cable release use the self-timer. Try that at f/22 or f/32.

[phule]

You should probably pick up John Shaw's book on the matter:

 

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0817440526