hellllllp me please

[cassie_parks]

i need to do some pictures of motion and my teacher told me to put

the camera on bulb but i tried it and none of my pictures turned out

and i dont know what i did wrog i desperately need help otherwise

i'll like fail if anyone can help me pleasssssssssssssssssssssssse

email me

[pmac]

Hi Cassie

 

You will need to give a lot more info here for people to know what the problem is -

 

What camera?

What film?

In what way did the pictures fail - over/ under exposure, all blank, or just not what you're looking for?

Are you sure that the developing & processing aren't at fault?

How long of a bulb exposure did you make?

What was your aperture?

 

For motion shots, if you haven't done them before, bulb exposure is a little extreme to start with. If you make a picture of a busy street in daylight, say, then you will get motion effects with a shutter speed of only 1/4 or 1/2 of a second, BUT you still need to pay attention to the overall exposure, which means stopping down your aperture to a large number. This is because the longer your shutter is open, the more light you are letting in, therefore you have to compensate by closing down the aperture.

 

Bulb exposures tend to be used at night, and you still have to count and limit the amount of time the shutter is open for, because the camera (in bulb) is no longer doing the timing for you.

Most cameras have shutter speeds up to 30 seconds - if you need longer than that, use bulb, and use your watch or a stopwatch to time the exposure.

 

Hope this helps

[hans_beckert]

Still photography is just that: still. You cannot really take pictures of motion with a still camera. Long exposures (more than 1/30th of a second) allow some types of rapidly moving objects to form a blur. Is this waht you are trying to capture? Typical subjects for this sort of treatment are bicylists, and waterfalls and fountains. These sorts of subjects move in a predictable path and allow for panning (in the case of the cyclist) or use of a tripod (waterfalls and fountains).

 

Long exposures (more than 1/30th sec) typically also require very small apertures if the illumination is bright. At 1/15th or 1/8th sec a fast film like Tri-X will be very hard to expose properly. You should use a very slow film like Ilford Pan-F (ISO 50). This will prevent overexposure on long exposures such as 1/15 or 1/4 sec.

 

'Bulb' stays open as long you hold it.

[ann_clancy3]

Why not go talk to your teacher and get some hands on help? It would be easier for them to show you than for someone to try to explain in writing.

[daniel flather]

What I want to know is did your teacher coved this in a class or some sort of oversize? Is yes do you note have any notes from class or any material from the teacher? Is you do go over your notes and then ask your teacher what might of gone wrong.

[jeff_lentz]

I had this same assignment for my B&W class a few years ago. I used Plus x and a slow shutter speed. You don't have to go crazy with it, IIRC I was shooting somewhere around a shutter speed of 100 or so, maybe lower. I defintely would not use trix for this. something around 100asa would be best. If you really want to go crazy go for some tech pan.

 

Jeff

[chris_waller]

When you say your pictures "didn't turn out", what does that mean exactly? You can shoot pictures of motion at any speed slower than, say, 1/30th second. What camera are you using?

[andrew_oneill]

Talk to you teacher. That's what he or she is there for.