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Zorki 1 + Jupiter 35mm, 135mm lenses


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<p>In his 1941 book "My way with the minature", UK press photographer Lancelot Vining mentions that his sales had paid for his 35mm camera by the end of 1935.By 1941 he had 35mm,50mm,85mm and 135mm lenses.<br>

I wanted to see what it was like being a press photographer 70 years ago so here are some pics with my 1956 Zorki 1 which is a copy of the Leica 11.</p><div>00Z2V4-379617584.jpg.4a680593a933369c2097fb85d53a3975.jpg</div>

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<p>Pictures of old boats are one of my favourites.This is a type of boat called a "smack" that used to dredge for oysters under sail.Enthusiasts have them restored, they are then quite a collectors item.<br>

The first few pictures were taken with the 35mm Jupiter 12.</p><div>00Z2VC-379619584.jpg.e75c13a7093fbfe24fcbb6d89f0d7b19.jpg</div>

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<p>Nice job Alan. Everything looks like it is in good working order judging by the results you have posted. I really like my Zorki1 and collapsible Industar 22, it's a nice small lightweight kit that is very simple to use. Thanks for sharing these pics with us.</p>
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<p>Aside from the shutter problem, nice work with the camera. That could cure itself if you're lucky with some more exercise (recycle it without film in it at different speeds).</p>

<p>That auxiliary finder is swell, by the way.</p>

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<p>I like all the pictures <strong>Alan</strong>. Both lenses seem very good. In addition to what JDM said, the shutter can be adjusted to run smoothly if you try working the tension of the curtains, alternately. I had similar problems when the camera arrived and was set right after I cleaned the spindle ends, the gears, lubed them and adjusted the tension. These small Zorkis [1,c and 2c] work very smoothly and are quiet. Thanks for the post. sp.</p>
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<p>My Zorki1 did the same thing but much worse. I cleaned it with Zippo lighter fuel and got some sewing machine oil from the sewing machine repair guy to lube it. Seems to work well now. They do need cleaning and the tension adjusting as they are now very old.</p>
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<p>I agree, <strong>Mukul</strong>, it is slower to use than bayonet cameras with bright lines and rangefinder spot in the viewfinder window.Partly the poor framing is due to my not being familiar with how the lab crops,but the multifinder is a bit out of line with the 135mm.<br>

I have a Zorki 4 as well, <strong>Stuart</strong>, but like the Zorki 1 better.<br>

<strong>Cliff, JDM</strong>, thanks, I tried firing the shutter 100 times then put another test film through, it now looks as though it is a lot better.If it needs to be serviced as <strong>SP </strong>and <strong>Stuart </strong>have the skills for I would prefer to send it away, noting Fedka.com does a CLA for $70.<br>

Yes, <strong>Rick</strong>, I have checked out the 35mm Jupiter 12 with slow B/W film, it is a very good performer.The 135 awaits testing.<br>

Here it is with the newer Helios multifinder which has bright lines for 35, 85 and 135 mm.Thanks for the comments.</p><div>00Z2nD-379933584.jpg.754ebcee5173494cf1f1eae1622fd0a8.jpg</div>

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<p>I prefer my Zorki 1 over my Fed2 and Fed3 have not tried a Zorki 4 yet. I get mine from local flea markets and sometimes have to do something to them to make them work. My Fed2 looked to be working when I found it but after a night in the glove box of my car at about -10 deg C the shutter became so sluggish that it would not work. That was when I decided to try to service one myself. They don't really have alot inside them. My FED3 had pinholes in the shutter I fixed it with nail varnish but oneday I will order some shutter material and tapes and do it properly.</p>
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