Yashica 124~ poor results

Got my Yashica 124 in today, looks to be in excellent condition (as far as appearance

goes). I picked it up pretty cheap so I was suprised at the condition, very clean. I

loaded it with Tri-X and headed out for a test shoot after work. The weather was drab

due to "Emily", raining and cloud cover so the light was poor.

 

This is a Yashica 124 G, yes I know it was produced in 1970 so if you split hairs it is

not considered classic by this forum, although the only differences between the

previous models (124) and this one has to do with metering and not the optical

formula as it is the same.

 

I find this one is hard to focus in low light...any light really. I am not sure how or what

to use for reference. The ground glass has a spot (circle in the middle) on it that is

not a split image like the Rollei I have. When focusing there seems to be a difference

in the spot and the rest of the ground glass, so what do you focus on, the spot or the

whole glass? Very confusing and of course I didn't look for any instruction before I

took it out, that wouldn't be very manly of me to read directions would it? ;-)

 

My first roll had only two shots that were in focus, barely, they were shot at f4 and

close up. DOF is very shallow on these two. I don't think it is a mechanical problem

but rather the "nut" behind the camera is to blame :-)

 

Any suggestions as to how best to focus on this screen are appreciated, here are the

two that came out (barely):<div></div>

rings

ooops!<div></div>

the camera...<div></div>

I used to have a Rolleicord III that had a focusing issue, and it was mechanical. The top viewing lens had been screwed in way too far.

 

One small exercise that could provide some insight would be to take two identical images, one focused using the screen and the other using the distance scale/DOF markings on the focusing knob. Then compare the two images for focus.

I think your results look pretty good, actually. Focusing in low light is impacted _heavily_ by the condition of the mirror. I happened to get one with a particularly good-condition mirror, and I can focus in pretty low light from the waist.

 

I usually focus using the spot. But with the pop-out magnifier, I focus throughout the screen if need be, based on the composition. The magnifier is quite useful.

 

DOF is going to be a bit shallower than you'd expect if you're coming from 35mm. The lens is an 80mm lens, remember, rather than a 50. Being close up doesn't help, either.

 

It took me a bit to get used to my 124. I now have a pretty good feel for it, and I am very happy with the results I get. But it does take some practice.

 

allan

thanks for the response, I'll try again with better light.

 

Todd

FYI, you should first rule out that the camera's viewing lens is misaligned with the taking lens. Test it first by using it in bright light and shooting objects at infinity. 1st of all, see that you get what appears to be accurate focus in the finder for shooting distant objects when the lens is set for infinity. If you don't get sharp viewfinder focus when the distance scale of the lens is at infinity, then the one of the two lenses is out of alignment. The way to check which one would be to shoot the distant object with the lens set at infinity (preferably at or near full aperture) and see what you get on the film. You can also check the accuracy at close focus by setting the focusing scale at either 3.5 or 4 feet, and then placing the camera on the end of a tape measure, which you then extend out from the front of the camera (make sure that the beginning of the tape is at the FILM PLANE, not the front of the lens). Then shoot some shots and see where on the tape measure the plane of sharp focus actually is. If it's some point different from what you set the focusing scale at, that's how far the taking lens is off. Also, with sufficient viewing light, check that the viewfinder focus in the center spot appears to be aligned with the reading at the focusing scale.

It might be worth taking a look at the mirror in case it needs cleaning or has popped out of its clamp. The viewfinder is very easily removed and replaced after unscrewing the four small screws attaching it to the camera body.

I focus using the center spot, but with low DOF at f4 it's vital that you don't 'move' the camera postion while recomposing. But also f4 is sure to be on the soft side with this lens (it's not a Planar after all) and at real close-up DOF can be hairsbreadth.

<p>

The <i>see-saw</i> looks good, and would be a good focus test if you paint a 6" scale up the plank (well, laid at 45 degrees would be best) but at f8 or f11 it would have been a cracker shot.

<p>

(Incidentally, my shot of the winding gear a few threads back was either f22 or f32.)

Todd, the "spot" is only a region where there are no grooves in the Fresnel screen. It's made like that to help focusing, since the Fresnel grooves usually make focusing more difficult when using the magnifier.

 

I don't know what the screen is in your 'flex, but the Yashica fresnel screen is quite good IMO, maybe it needs some time to get used to...

 

The condition of the mirror you can check by opening the hood, pointing it towards some light source and looking through the viewing lens from the front - you can see the mirror surface quite well. You should see if it has too much dirt on it. I had a "D" model, which was matted from the dirt - i washed it off simply with soap and warm water, became much better. I took it out from the camera first, of course:)

 

And indeed you also should check if the viewing lens is in sync with the taking lens regarding the focusing.

The lens looks to be of very nice quality, and a couple good shots out of 12 isn't that bad. I have the same problem focusing my Yashicamat. I usually first focus with the little magnifying glass, then flip it back down to compose with the full screen. Sometimes, I shoot with the magnifying focus because it lets me get the camera up to a better level for the shot.

I can't focus my Mamiyas without the help of a loupe. I realy love the additional loupe in the chimney finder. I believe most people shooting with such cameras at waistline are zonefocusing.

I don't have any experience with a Yashica, but I don't find the Fresnel screen in my Reflex II has any bad effect on focusing with the magnifier -- and that camera doesn't even have a non-Fresnel center spot. And no, I don't "zone focus" when using the Reflex II at waist level; rather, I prefocus with the magnifier, then drop the camera to waist level, fold the magnifier, and compose on the full glass.

I don't particularly like those focus screens. I have an easier time with plain ground glass. Be that as it may, depth of field at f/4 is only going to be a matter of inches. The subject matter in most of your examples is not going to look good at that aperture, regardlesss. Focus with the center spot and the magnifier (very important). When doing close ups, especially, a tripod is necessary if you want the best results.

I have a 124G, and get good results with it. But focusing is not quick and easy. I usually use the pop-up magnifying lens, especially when focusing at close distances. A year ago I did some experimenting with an olympus f=30cm close-up lens in front of the 124G. It was made for the Olympus Trip 35, or Olympus 35RC, and obviously does not fit the Bay 1 on the Yashica TLR, so I just held it lightly in contact to the front of the lens. On a tripod of course, I first focused on a fuschia flower holding the close-up lens in front of the viewing lens, then cranked up the tripod the distance equal to that between the two lenses, then held the close-up in front of the taking lens. I can say the shot came out very well, using E100VS slide film. Focusing does take some getting used to, especially in low light. I shot some wedding photos at my son's wedding in March. They were shot in an old inn B&B, which was lighted only by candlelight, so focusing was pretty difficult, but possible.

Wayne