Which metering mode should I use for macro?

Which of the three main metering modes (center-weighted, partial, or spot) is the best for macro photography, or

does it depend on the subject, lighting conditions, etc.? The reason I'm asking is that I'd like to use my F-1 or one of

my F-1n's for macro work since they have MLU, but then I'm limited to partial metering. And my F-1N's and T90 give

me all three modes, but don't have MLU. Any recommendations?

It doesn't matter...you are trying to get proper exposure... I actually prefer incident metering for my macro work unless I'm using extension tubes or a bellows. However if I am using a camera's internal meter...I'll go for center weighted and adjust for lightness or darkness of the subject.

Mark, macro photography still follows the same lighting rules as general photography (assuming you are using ambient lighting only). Your subject is more apt to be in a 'spotlight' situation (dark background) with macro work and if this is the case, partial or spot metering would be more appropriate. The T-90 would be a good choice to allow you to try all 3 modes. As far as MLU is concerned, I think that a properly dampened T-90 mirror would not be an issue. I can't say from experience that this is the case, but I think it's worth a shot.

 

Assuming that you're using a controlled environment for your macro work, I'd suggest taking lots of notes as you try different approaches to the same subject and then go with the winner. I'd like to see some of the winners and losers. Best of luck.

Mark, I think the best tutorial for exposure determination for close-up/macro work is Mr. John Shaw's book, CLOSE-UPS

IN NATURE. Just as Stephan says and Bob infers, the key component of exposure determination is the individual

photographer. Good results can be obtained with all three methods you detail -- it depends on how well you understand

and use them. My opinion is that the MLU feature is more important than the metering mode. There are lots of very

knowledgeable pros who take both the with MLU and without MLU stance. Of course MLU has limitations (moving

subjects). Only you can decide what is important to your style of photography. We will all enjoy sharing your logic and

seeing your work. Good Luck

 

Don B in Hampton Roads

Well there is macro and then there is MACRO. The term is used rather loosely to cover a range of magnifications. Traditionally, photomacrography begins at 1:1 magnification. Anything less than that is close-up photography. Along with the Shaw book, I highly recommend Lester Lefkowitz's Manual of Close-Up Photography as an excellent source. For close up work, the T90 on a solid tripod, is hard to beat with it's wide range of metering options, high sensitivity and auto exposure. I use the spot mode most of the time. Works great in ambient lighting conditions up to about half life size. As magnifications increase to true macro, the lack of MLU on the T90, has shown to me in the 5-6 bodies I've tried, to rear it's ugly head by taking the fine edge off of sharpness. Here, the use of manual or TTL strobe can be a great asset with the T90. The older F-1's with MLU are well suited for high mag work, however, if using ambient lighting, they benefit from the use of the Booster-T finder to support the lower light levels found in macro work due to light fall off as those meters are less sensitive to low light levels. However you have only centerwieghted metering and manual exposure options. Actually, the old FTBn, with it's concentrated (12 degree I think) center spot and MLU is an option as well but you no longer have access to the brighter grid screens or meter boosters the F-1 has. The use of high speed strobe on a macro bracket, with any of the bodies, will boost your sharpness. Pre-testing, at specific magnifications, for specific films, really helps one's confidence in the field.

Correction: I forgot.....the FTB does have a meter booster available if you can find one.

Mark, if this is more info than you need please forgive me. Here's a couple more points specifically at using your F-1n

(not F-1N) for Macro work. First, Louis is absolutely correct in that the term Macro is used loosely. Generally my

experience has been the cut-off between Close-up and Macro is about at 0.5X with respect to equipment needed for the

shot. Less magnification can be successfully handheld with minimum impact on meter readings. More magnification

places a premium on MLU, exposure reading, tripod and focusing rail. I have used the F-1n extensively up to 2.0X

magnification and found I use the MLU a lot. I also use focusing screen G-L with the f/4 Macro lenses. I find split image

darkening with lenses slower that 2.8 to be distracting. Louis' comment that the older F-1's have only center-weighted

metering is not correct. The older F-1's have partial metering which, at 0.5X and higher magnification behave like a spot

meter. It's just the spot is a little bigger (12% of the viewing area). I have found Louis's comments about the utility of a

electronic flash to be spot on. Makes a big difference. Also pre-testing with various films, metering techniques and

equipment is priceless. Hope this information is of benefit to you.

 

Don B in Hampton Roads

"The older F-1's have partial metering which, at 0.5X and higher magnification behave like a spot meter."

Quite correct. Thanks for the clarification, Don

Just be careful when using extension tubes and an incident separate meter. There is a significant loss in the amount of light that reaches the film.