Super Graphic Flash Question

Discussion in 'Large Format' started by henry_finley|1, Jun 4, 2015.

  1. I have a Graflex Super Graphic and I want to hook up my Strobonar 682s up to it using the body contacts. What is the arrangement of the 3 sockets on the right side bottom of the body? Thank you.
     
  2. A- flash +
    B- solenoid trip +
    C- common negative, flash or solenoid.
    00dKJu-557056684.jpg
     
  3. I apologize, A and C descriptions are reversed.
     
  4. I'll put my digital Radio Shack cheapo multimeter on it tomorrow wand report back. Problem is these LCD meters are no good for this kind of thing. Anywhere there are capacitors involved, ambiguous results can lead to totally misleading results.
     
  5. Henry -
    You can use the DVM too. All modern DVMs have a high input impedence and measuring a voltage with no load may result in errors due to electromagnetic pickup.
    Use a 1000K to 1M ohm shunt across the DVM input when measuring for line to earth faults on isolated supplies to prevent spurious voltages. The resistor shunt provides a load across the meter so spurious volt pickup is eliminated. It fudges the real reading a bit, but helps the gibberish issue.

    Jim
     
  6. Your electronic flash, in fact all electronic flash, requires X synch. flash bulbs, except gas filled ones, require M synch. Does your camera have X synch?
     
  7. The flash sync switch is on the shutter IF it was made for M type flash bulbs and electronic flash, including the Graphic 1000 shutter. Some shutters used on these cameras were X sync only.
    The bellows contact strips are .002 brass 5/8 inch wide that run the length of the bellows between the inner and outer coverings. They break with use and age and are a pain to replace but I have done so on 3 cameras so far.
     
  8. No, many old shutters were M synch only or not synched.
     
  9. This has the Synchro Compur shutter with X & M settings. As far as the brass in the bellows, so far I am reading continuity, but I have a new policy of not folding the camera up unless absolutely necessary, to not add to the 60 years of metal fatigue before I got it 3 weeks ago. I want to try to use the body contacts before I have to remove the parts from the lensboard that give the flash socket its connection there. This is a pretty complete camera--even has the little plastic snap cap on the flash socket.
    My 682s came a couple days ago and my Graflite brackets for it came today, and I got them mounted on the flash and now it mounts on the camera just like a Graflite would have. Now all I need to do is fabricate some sort of flashcord to go from the PC output on the Strobonar to the body sockets of the camera.
     
  10. Pretty nice set-up, huh?
    00dKPR-557065784.jpg
     
  11. Some shutters such as the Graphex were made in no flash sync, full flash sync for all types of flash bulbs and electronic flash, and electronic flash only versions.
    Contact http://www.paramountcords.com/ and ask for a custom cable from your flash's terminal to a SSG-X plug.
    The SSG-X is only available via a phone order. Expect the cable to be $60 to $100. The original with solenoid and flash with household plugs show up on occasion on ebay. Pm sent about a non functioning cable that I have that can be modified and used with your camera and flash.
     
  12. From what I've been able to ascertain, looking at the camera from the right side, these are the flash contacts. They're the only 2 that cause the numbers to flash on my DVM when I trip the shutter at the lensboard. (I have no 22v batteries)
    00dKQc-557066984.jpg
     
  13. I pulled out my Super Speed and Micronta digital VOM.
    Socket contact A, front of camera connects to the top right lens board contact, white dot, and one of the solenoid contacts (top), rear side of the front standard, and 30 ohms to the other (lower).
    Socket contact B, center of socket, to negative battery compartment contact 32 ohms or the solenoid.
    Socket contact C, rear of socket, to top left lens board contact (red dot) 0 ohms.
    I discovered the body switch to be malfunctioning on my camera which was working.
    Where is the serial number for your camera, above the battery compartment or center of the trim lip to the left of the front standard?
    Above battery compartment-possibly miswired.
    Left of front standard- internal electronics problem.
    Do you hear a mechanical click when you push the red body electronic shutter release button?
    All readings with no batteries installed.
     
  14. It serial number inside left side of front frame. The red button clicks. It is a microswitch. My readings aren't like that. But the camera showed no signs of tampering when I overhauled it.
     
  15. Its the early version made from introduction in 1958 through the first quarter of 1959. The wires from the socket solder to the rangefinder electronics board with the bellows strips pressure fit against the rangefinder/socket contacts with paper insulator between the rangefinder terminals and back frame and between them and the retainer with screws holding the retainer in place. It is possible to switch the center and right end rangefinder/socket leads but the leads are different lengths, left terminal short, center medium, right terminal longest. There is a color dot on the wire which can flake off but is otherwise hard to see.
    The second version made from the 1st. quarter of 1959 through 1973 use wires from the bellows, rangefinder, and socket and connect via a terminal strip on the left of the body when looking at the front of the camera.
    The diagram is the same for both versions. The switch is a SPST solid copper mechanical switch about 1/2 inch long by 1/4 inch wide. It can handle 10 amps easily and possibly a higher surge.
    The bellows are fairly easy to disengage at the rear and are crimped at the front. At the rear remove the focus panel then rotate the back 45°. Remove the 6 bellows retainer clips, 2 top, 2 bottom, one each right and left sides by slipping a small flat tip screwdriver or similar between the end of the retainer and the frame and pry upward on the retainer. Next remove the 5 slot head screws and retainer between the bellows and rangefinder housing paying attention to the position of the 2 larger head screws. The bellows and front standard can now be removed from the rails for easier servicing. Reassembly is reverse of removal.
     
  16. Thank you for the help. I've got a plan to fabricate a cord which will allow me to put a thumb button to trip the camera also from the flash handle, just like the big Graflites do on the Speeds with the solenoids. In the meantime, so that I can get right on the business of shooting pictures, will be to remove the PC socket to lensboard 90 degree electrical fixture and hook up the flash there. It's going to take me a while to budget the frivolous expense of 22 volt batteries. That'll be another $50 right there.
    My stock had a big day today, but I'm still $20 in the hole on 1000 shares, so spending is halted. In the meantime I have an idea for a great body connector using materials from my RC plane repair stash. Batteries ain't in the plan right now. If I'm going to do this, may as well do it top notch. I've got a darn fine Super now, and a good Stobonar thyristor potato masher to match it. Maybe I ought to actually shoot pictures with it and be happy for a time.
    Shot my first neg and developed it a few days ago of an old silo in a cornfield, with the corn only 6 inches tall. I'm going to do a 4 seasons series of that scene. Shot it on T-max 100 outdated at 64 ASA and developed tray in straight Microdol home-brew, and it was perfect. What a camera!
     
  17. My instructions for
    1. How to make a Super Graphic (same as a Super Speed Graphic) cam from scratch http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=4653
    2. How to calibrate a Super Graphic rangefinder http://www.graflex.org/helpboard/viewtopic.php?t=4647
    other Super Graphic help available upon request.
    Enjoy!
     

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