Strobist thing.

<p>Is there a trend going with "strobist"? Or am I the only one that thinks it's easier and may be cheaper to just shoot with a monolights and a battery pack (even those designed for a non photography goods - kid's iPads during that holiday). A few OEM brand hotshoe flash isn't cheap and then all the stands and light modifiers and you may require more if one wanted to do full height group shots. I gather many people may prefer full height portraiture than half body.</p>

<p>Strobist is to lighting as Whataburger is to hamburgers. Not bad when you're in a hurry and on the road. But not a substitute for the real thing.</p>

<p>Screwdriver vs. Hammer. Different tools for different tasks. I'm armed with some nice Nikon speedlights, as well as a monolight rig that includes portable power. It never occurs to me to prefer one over the other generally - it's entirely about the specific shooting circumstances. <br /><br />That said, one has to start somewhere. You can get by with speedlights in place of studio lights for some situations, but you can never throw a monolight in a shoulder bag or run-and-gun with it mounted in a hot shoe, bounced from a ceiling. I dislike desert island discussions, but if I had to have one or other other, the speedlights are more versatile. But they ain't studio lights unless you use a lot of them, or really crank the ISO up ... never mind the lack of modeling light, or the more difficult modifier situation, and the rest.<br /><br />The best of both worlds comes from actually having both worlds, I'm afraid.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Strobist is to lighting as Whataburger is to hamburgers.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>More accurately, Strobist is to lighting what a cordless drill is to construction -- in just about every respect.</p>

<p><em>Strobist is to lighting as Whataburger is to hamburgers</em>.</p>

<p>Jeesh, horses for courses. The technique lowers the cost barrier to entry for controlled lighting without necessarily lowering the quality. "Smart" Strobist work looks better than "dumb" monolight work any day.</p>

<p>Lightweight, portable and cheap best describes a Strobist kit, which makes it great for beginners and anyone else in a hurry. And battery operated means no power cords for anyone to trip over, which also means it can be easily used outside. Its two main drawbacks are slow recycle times and limited power.<br /> My kit consists of two bags, a small one for the three flashes, batteries and accessories, and an larger one for the two umbrellas and three stands, together weighing less that 15 lbs. and costing less than $400, and can be tossed in the back seat of a small car. Compare that with monolights with battery packs and see what you get.</p>

<p>Select the gear to match the job. I have x8 WL X3200 monolights and x8 Nikon SB-28 flash, all fired by CyberSync triggers. When I need BIG POWER, I have it. When I need something fast and light, I have it. You can actually light up quite a bit with the little 4AA flash using fast lenses and moderately high ISO. With camera ISO going ever higher, it's getting harder for me to justify the big monolights. I will probably replace them with the smaller Einsteins at some point.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

<p>Nikon D5100, Nikon 17-55mm f2.8,<br /> x4 SB-28 & Cybersyncs<br /> ISO 800, f5.6</p><div></div>

<p>Strobist has done more for new photographers than probably any other website. How many times have we seen the post here "I want to shoot portraits and weddings but I prefer available light". We all know why. For a basic understanding of flash there is probably not a better tutorial around. Couple that with their insistence that we need not spend a fortune and many a new photographer has taken a giant step because of them. If one has to start anywhere is has to be camera strobes. </p>

<p>As to the equipment. I go with the consensus. They are apples and oranges. Each has its function. If I could only have one or the other how could it be anything other than Speedlights. But then it isn't one or the other.</p>

<p>Would any of us recommend buying a good mono light setup BEFORE someone had camera flash? So if expense wise all we are talking are a couple of modifiers and a stand they strobist approach is the natural first choice. </p>

<p>I learned more about light - and lighting - from David Hobby than I did from any other source (including the studio modules in my college photography programme).</p>

<p>I got into the Strobist world just as David began to publish it on his blog. His Lighting 101 (102...etc) modules were FUN, practical, informative and they enabled me to get a good grasp on the concepts I needed for what I wanted to do...and of course, David offered all this for FREE via his Blog!</p>

<p>The equipment cost was negligible (a small fraction of the price of one studio module at college) and one doesn't need a bag full of flash gear to get going ~ one light (of some description), a clamp and/or stand, some home made reflectors, and lots of real world practice. The fact that a "Strobist" style lighting kit is so cheap and portable encouraged me to take a small lighting kit along wherever I went ~ and use it.</p>

<p>David did a very good thing with his Strobist teachings and, it seems, he eventually reaped some well deserved rewards.<br>

Cheers! Jay</p>

 

<p><em>A few OEM brand hotshoe flash isn't cheap and then all the stands and light modifiers and you may require more ....</em></p>

<p>If you're thinking the Strobist newbie would buy two or three Canon 600EX or Nikon SB-910 flashes, you might have a point. But one used (original-style) Vivitar 283 or Sunpak 383, used off-camera with an inexpensive cord, can do relative wonders, especially when paired with a cheap umbrella and an inexpensive stand. And of course you have to buy stands, light modifiers, etc. regardless of whether you're using a thirty-year-old 283 or a brand-new Einstein. Moreover, the 283 is lighter and less demanding of the stand, and less to risk if it falls. IMO, some pros and serious amateurs have an unfortunate habit of scaring away newbies who want to experiment for $100 or $200 by telling them they really need to spend $1000.</p>