conrad_hoffman Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Never tried stereo images before, though I have no problem viewing them with either the relaxed or cross-eyed methods. This is a slider I made today. It's definitely version 0.9, needing a capture method and some stops. Right now you have to be a bit careful since nothing prevents the camera from falling or sliding out, but it proves the concept. It's just aluminum U-channel for protecting the edges of 3/4" plywood, plus a couple suitably drilled and tapped blocks. The scale is for the 1/30 baseline number. First try was my woodpile, using StereoPhoto Maker to put the images together. Scale your monitor so the image pair is about 6" across and use the relaxed eye method. Hey, it's my first try at this. Hopefully I can find something more interesting for future endeavors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 You might get better results if the shots were spaced about the same as the average interocular distance - 70 to 75 mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 There seems to be an overabundance of info and opinions on the best baseline distance. The 1/30 rule is popular, but some aim for the interocular distance and some calculate everything (Bercovitz formula) and can use larger distances when the conditions are right. I haven't slogged through the math, and probably never will, but it's easy enough to shoot the left image, then a selection of the other at various distances. IMO, with too great a baseline, objects tend to look like cardboard cutouts at various distances. That reminds me, I should add an extra mark on my scale for the average interocular distance. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Looks pretty good! I scaled to 67%, take my glasses (about -6) off, and it is pretty easy to focus on it. Reminds me, there is a Hocus Focus (find 6 differences between these pictures) section in our newspaper. I usually find five the regular, way, then look at the two like a stereo pair. Differences are very easy to see. Also, it is supposed to be possible to generate stereo pairs from a Lytro camera, but I never did it. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karim Ghantous Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 I still haven't looked up how to convert images to H4V format (for the RED Hydrogen phone). Once I do I'll give it a look. Stereophotography is very cool, though unfortunately you can't really make use of it once the subject is too far away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Actually you can, if you do "hyper-stereo". It's just a matter of increasing the baseline. They do it with the moon by photographing the same phase at different times of the year Or something like that. Google has the details. Naturally, any of these effects are a bit artificial, but it's still neat to play with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Here's an improvised stereo (cross-eye) done by leaning on one foot, then on the other Antietam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frans_waterlander Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 You might get better results if the shots were spaced about the same as the average interocular distance - 70 to 75 mm. Conrad addressed that in his first post: "Scale your monitor so the image pair is about 6" across". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Conrad addressed that in his first post: "Scale your monitor so the image pair is about 6" across". I thought that, too, but then I decided it means the camera positions. Otherwise, I was told that there are some point-and-shoot digital cameras that have a way to synchronize two of them, as is needed for shots with moving subjects. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Here's an improvised stereo (cross-eye) done by leaning on one foot, then on the other [ATTACH=full]1333674[/ATTACH] Antietam Can you post them the other way? I cant' do cross-eye, and it looks very strange this way. -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Just download them (drag them to a folder, etc) and switch right to left for parallel viewing. Because they are not exactly simultaneous, there will be a little 'action' on the edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 They drag and copy as one picture! -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conrad_hoffman Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 Mirror it! You weren't there so will never know it's backwards. Views nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen_h Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 (edited) Mirror it! You weren't there so will never know it's backwards. Views nicely. I already tried up-side down, and mirror doesn't work, either. OK, I made a copy of one, moved it to the other side. Not quite as good as it should be, as my display program wants to put a big frame around the image. But yes, mirror doesn't work as it both exchanges the positions and the difference, such that the result is wrong. Specifically, the tree comes out in front of the house, detached from the rest of the trees. Edited March 19, 2020 by glen_h -- glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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